2014/15+ HD PowerFold OEM Tow Mirrors (The Ones We've Been Waiting

[Mike1220]

I did this mod and it works fine, cargo lights on in reverse, however when I tied the new mirrors LED's to the cargo fuse they will not illuminate in reverse. Also tried connecting to reverse light fuse and got nothing. Have you installed these mirrors and have the LED's working in reverse ? If so did you cut the solid yellow wire going back towards the truck harness?

 

Have you been able to install yours and does your reverse lights work with the cargo mod?

I have not. And I am now realizing that I have failed to mention that you will likely need to get the power from the cargo lamps past the BCM.

[CRApex]

CrankyApex

 

What is the color of clearance light wire and where did you tap into it?

Pictures?

Its a white wire with a pink? or red? stripe. I tapped into it under the headliner. I had to pull off the inner windshield pillar trim, sun visor then was able to pull the headliner down enough to access the lamp and run the wire.

[Sicmab]

I'm sold. How long is the wait and who do I send the money to?

[superchargedss]

I'm sold. How long is the wait and who do I send the money to?

Wait is 10 deep again. Keeps getting longer.

 

PM me if interested.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone 7 using Tapatalk Beta 3.8.1

[mcnwil]

I have not. And I am now realizing that I have failed to mention that you will likely need to get the power from the cargo lamps past the BCM.

Any idea where I can pick up this wire at? Where is the BCM located? on the passenger side behind the glove box? Funny thing tonight when I backed into the garage the led's worked in reverse, sat there and did it repeatedly without issue, went back out to the truck and they do not come on in reverse but I did notice there was a slight flash in them when I shifted into reverse.

[Mike1220]

Any idea where I can pick up this wire at? Where is the BCM located? on the passenger side behind the glove box? Funny thing tonight when I backed into the garage the led's worked in reverse, sat there and did it repeatedly without issue, went back out to the truck and they do not come on in reverse but I did notice there was a slight flash in them when I shifted into reverse.

 

I am not sure where it is for sure. I think it is under the dash on driver side. I would try splicing into the wire that you used the diode on. If that doesn't work then I'm almost positive that you could get it at the back end of the truck under the bed and behind the spare tire where the harness for the cargo and bed lights plug in.

[wberg]

Mcnwil

 

Is it possible the leds only work with the auto headlight sensor is on at night?

[mcnwil]

I am not sure where it is for sure. I think it is under the dash on driver side. I would try splicing into the wire that you used the diode on. If that doesn't work then I'm almost positive that you could get it at the back end of the truck under the bed and behind the spare tire where the harness for the cargo and bed lights plug in.

This maybe easy to test with a jumper to see if there is any difference. If not the only other thing I can think of is cutting the solid yellow on the truck side so the mirror LED's are isolated from the truck wiring.

 

Mcnwil

 

Is it possible the leds only work with the auto headlight sensor is on at night?

At first that is what I thought, but I went back out after dark and they would not work whether I was in auto or manual headlight.

 

On a separate note I noticed yesterday that during day light when the fog lights are turned on the mirror ambers and the headlight upper and lower LED's illuminate.

[Jon A]

Something phunky is going on with the reverse lights, that’s for sure. I did completely snip the yellow wires and ran them to the reverse light fuse under the hood directly. When put in reverse, the driver’s side comes on about 50% of the time; the passenger side about 25%. Yes, quite often the driver’s side comes on and the passenger side doesn’t even though they’re wired together.

 

Here’s the interesting part—I also did the diode mod connecting the reverse lights to the cargo switch (the opposite of the way the thread above describes) so they’ll come on when I hit the switch. With the engine off, both come on perfectly 100% of the time when I hit the cargo switch (along with the backup lights in the tail lights) so it seems my wiring is good. With the engine running, hitting the cargo switch only illuminates them some of the time just like shifting into reverse. I can’t explain that.

 

And I did try them in reverse with the diode removed just to make sure it wasn’t the cause of the problems and it had no effect (except disconnecting them from the cargo switch of course).

 

I’m thinking maybe the LED’s are picky about their voltage or something and maybe the fuse under the hood isn’t the best place to supply them with power. It is only a 10 amp circuit and maybe it’s just not consistently giving the LED’s the voltage they want. I think I’ll try powering the LEDs with a separate relay direct to the battery and only using that fuse to activate it.

 

The hard part (running the wires through the firewall, into the doors and up to the mirrors) is already done, experimenting around with what to hook them to is easy compared with that.

 

All that said, the LED’s are going to be great to have. They really light up the place. They’ll be especially good when messing with a trailer in the dark or stuff around your trailer (saddling a horse tied to the side of the trailer, etc). Cargo/reverse lights mounted on the bumper, bed lights, etc, don’t do this very well at all because the trailer blocks most of the light.

[mcnwil]

Something phunky is going on with the reverse lights, that’s for sure. I did completely snip the yellow wires and ran them to the reverse light fuse under the hood directly. When put in reverse, the driver’s side comes on about 50% of the time; the passenger side about 25%. Yes, quite often the driver’s side comes on and the passenger side doesn’t even though they’re wired together.

 

Here’s the interesting part—I also did the diode mod connecting the reverse lights to the cargo switch (the opposite of the way the thread above describes) so they’ll come on when I hit the switch. With the engine off, both come on perfectly 100% of the time when I hit the cargo switch (along with the backup lights in the tail lights) so it seems my wiring is good. With the engine running, hitting the cargo switch only illuminates them some of the time just like shifting into reverse. I can’t explain that.

 

And I did try them in reverse with the diode removed just to make sure it wasn’t the cause of the problems and it had no effect (except disconnecting them from the cargo switch of course).

 

I’m thinking maybe the LED’s are picky about their voltage or something and maybe the fuse under the hood isn’t the best place to supply them with power. It is only a 10 amp circuit and maybe it’s just not consistently giving the LED’s the voltage they want. I think I’ll try powering the LEDs with a separate relay direct to the battery and only using that fuse to activate it.

 

The hard part (running the wires through the firewall, into the doors and up to the mirrors) is already done, experimenting around with what to hook them to is easy compared with that.

 

All that said, the LED’s are going to be great to have. They really light up the place. They’ll be especially good when messing with a trailer in the dark or stuff around your trailer (saddling a horse tied to the side of the trailer, etc). Cargo/reverse lights mounted on the bumper, bed lights, etc, don’t do this very well at all because the trailer blocks most of the light.

Thank for the update, saved me some time as I was going to disconnect the cargo connection, remove the diode and cut the wire in the harness to isolate the truck harness. I tested the mirrors upon receipt with an external 12v battery and those LED's work every time with a good 12v source. I am seeing the exact results as you. Today, during daylight when I came back into the garage and after a few seconds when the light sensor engaged the headlights my LED's started working in reverse, and just like last yesterday I kept testing in and out of reverse and they work perfect. Shut the truck off and try again back to weak or flickering LED's. I think you may be on to something with finding another place to tap. If not the voltage then somehow the BSM is causing this.

[Jon A]

OK, I figured it out and it's an easy fix! I thought it was acting like a voltage issue so I measured my system voltage with the ignition off vs. the engine running--off it was 12.6, running it was 14.7! I then confirmed when hooking the lights direct to the battery with the engine running they were still having a problem so it wasn't purely a BCM issue; I figured the lights themselves may have some sort of built in protection against high voltage.

 

So I put a 1 ohm resister in the line feeding the lights. Presto! They work perfectly with the engine off or running. I nearly wore out my gearshift testing and both lights worked perfectly 100%.

 

So that's the fix, tapping into that fuse is fine, just use a resistor. I had the resistor laying around, I think I got it years ago from radio shack when I was building speakers. It's labeled 1 ohm, 10 Watts, and has a white ceramic rectangular heat sink.

[mcnwil]

OK, I figured it out and it's an easy fix! I thought it was acting like a voltage issue so I measured my system voltage with the ignition off vs. the engine running--off it was 12.6, running it was 14.7! I then confirmed when hooking the lights direct to the battery with the engine running they were still having a problem so it wasn't purely a BCM issue; I figured the lights themselves may have some sort of built in protection against high voltage.

 

So I put a 1 ohm resister in the line feeding the lights. Presto! They work perfectly with the engine off or running. I nearly wore out my gearshift testing and both lights worked perfectly 100%.

 

So that's the fix, tapping into that fuse is fine, just use a resistor. I had the resistor laying around, I think I got it years ago from radio shack when I was building speakers. It's labeled 1 ohm, 10 Watts, and has a white ceramic rectangular heat sink.

That's great. I will stop by radio shack on the way home and pick one up. I wonder if it will work connected to the cargo fuse? If not I will run to the reverse light fuse.

[Mike1220]

For all those who have bought these mirrors, how much were you able to sell your original power fold mirrors for? I am curious. I am looking to buy these but curious how much I will recoupe from selling the original mirrors.

 

Thanks in advance.

[ajmac]

As far as the splices, I just cut the orange wire on the mirror plug about 1 1/2" up from the block. The short part of wire coming out of the block I spliced to the orange wire in slot two. The longer part of the orange wire (that runs to the mirror), I spliced with the blue/red wire in slot 13. Pretty easy and straight forward. The pictures I took didn't really show much, but I can have the door panel off in like 5 minutes if I need to get some.

I installed mine yesterday and both mirrors are wired exactly as Bluestreak06 (see above) (also, the orange wire in slot 2 is actually yellow) Anyway....here is my electrical glitch: Everything works perfect except: When you lock the truck with the key fob, then unlock the doors with the fob, the mirror glass on both sides moves into a default position. It won't act up if you lock the doors from the button on the door panel, or unlock the truck with the key. It only screws up when you use the key fob. Anyone have an idea on what could possibly be going on? This happens every time you lock and unlock the doors with the fob.

[Shamokin]

For all those who have bought these mirrors, how much were you able to sell your original power fold mirrors for? I am curious. I am looking to buy these but curious how much I will recoupe from selling the original mirrors.

 

Thanks in advance.

I have mine up for 300.00 See what happens