Blew a Brake Line, In process of replacement... BUT ?

SG Lou · August 25, 2014

Blew the rear feed line just above the axle...2003 Silverado 1500 4x4 w/ 4 wheel Disc Brakes

Got a pre-bent SS replacement set from In Line Tube...awaiting delivery.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-08-Chevy-Silverado-GMC-Sierra-Truck-SUV-Brake-Line-Set-Kit-Tubes-Stainless-/271354899282?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f2e032b52

Truck is up on jack stands and I got lucky and was able to break free all of the fittings ...THANK GOD I read a lot of horror stories about having to cut the line and use a socket to remove the flare nut, especially on the ECBM.

Now the MAIN REASON for me posting this topic. I have read, a with talking to a couple of guys at work, that being only the rear blew and lost pressure my proportioning valve "slammed shut" and I'm going to need a "special tool" to bleed the brakes properly !

Whats the scoop on this as I have never run into this problem and I'm not ashamed to admit I never done it before !

Oh, and one more thing, will i have to remove the Master Cylinder and "Bench Bleed" it ?

Thanks for the help Gents !

Lou

Edited August 25, 2014 by SG Lou

servantsalesmen · August 25, 2014

Blew the rear feed line just above the axle...Got a pre-bent SS replacement set from In Line Tube...awaiting delivery.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-08-Chevy-Silverado-GMC-Sierra-Truck-SUV-Brake-Line-Set-Kit-Tubes-Stainless-/271354899282?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f2e032b52

Truck is up on jack stands and I got lucky and was able to break free all of the fittings ...THANK GOD I read a lot of horror stories about having to cut the line and use a socket to remove the flare nut, especially on the ECBM.

Now the MAIN REASON for me posting this topic. I have read, a with talking to a couple of guys at work, that being only the rear blew and lost pressure my proportioning valve "slammed shut" and I'm going to need a "special tool" to bleed the brakes properly !

Whats the scoop on this as I have never run into this problem and I'm not ashamed to admit I never done it before !

Oh, and one more thing, will i have to remove the Master Cylinder and "Bench Bleed" it ?

Thanks for the help Gents !

Lou

What specific truck do you have? As for the master cylinder, it will not need bench bled. Even if it did, us truck guys have an advantage because the engine bays are so big that you don't need to bench bleed. You can just screw in a bleeder kit from auto zone and run lines right back into the cylinder while just pumping the pedal.

If the truck is older and has disc brakes in the rear (1999-2005ish) they have a rear brake bias which would explain you blowing just the rear line. I wouldn't worry too much about why you blew a rear line unless you replace it, bleed it and can immediately tell you aren't at full braking power.

Lastly, do yourself a favor and check every brake line for corrosion. My sister who was 17 at the time, was driving my truck and all of the lines blew. GM trucks have a history of bad brake lines.

Good luck and post back with any other questions

Edited August 25, 2014 by servantsalesmen

txab · August 25, 2014

ESP not working well. I have no idea what truck model you are working on.

2003 silverado 1500

SG Lou · August 25, 2014

I applogize ...... 2003 Silverado 1500 4x4 and yes I have Disc's in the rear and yes I plan on replacing all of the lines...which brings me to my original question......will I be abe to bleed all 4 corners without any issues ?

and the line did rupture because of the rust issue...before this happened I didn't have any brake problems.

Edited August 25, 2014 by SG Lou

servantsalesmen · August 25, 2014

They should bleed without drama. Only issue is a possible frozen bleeder screw. That happened to me all the way around with my 04 and so I just bought new calipers (from auto zone about 70 bucks each)

Be sure you bleed the abs module too! If you don't, next time it gets used it will put air into the system. To bleed it, you will have to bleed the whole system then cycle the abs then bleed it again. To cycle the abs just find a low traction area without other cars or objects and mash on the brakes. Or have a gm tech 2 scan tool that can do it.

SG Lou · August 25, 2014

They should bleed without drama. Only issue is a possible frozen bleeder screw. That happened to me all the way around with my 04 and so I just bought new calipers (from auto zone about 70 bucks each)

Be sure you bleed the abs module too! If you don't, next time it gets used it will put air into the system. To bleed it, you will have to bleed the whole system then cycle the abs then bleed it again. To cycle the abs just find a low traction area without other cars or objects and mash on the brakes. Or have a gm tech 2 scan tool that can do it.

Thanks for the tip !

servantsalesmen · August 25, 2014

A few more tips from my line replacement:

Wear gloves. Brake fluid is known to have chemicals that cause cancer from long exposure.

Be sure not to spill fluid on anything that you don't want damaged. It eats paint, clear coat etc.

Draw a diagram of which lines go into which ports on the abs modulator. You don't want to mix them up.

You may need to remove the bed to access the rear line. My truck is a long bed and I was not going to risk kinking my line to force it through.

Lastly, don't let the fluid in the master cylinder get too low when bleeding otherwise it will suck air and make you start again.

Good luck with this! Again post back any questions or issues and I'll do my best to answer them from my own experience with this job. And if you haven't bought lines yet, I got mine from summit racing. Made by classic tube, pre-bent to factory fit and made from stainless steel.

Edited August 25, 2014 by servantsalesmen

SG Lou · August 25, 2014

A few more tips from my line replacement:

Wear gloves. Brake fluid is known to have chemicals that cause cancer from long exposure.

Be sure not to spill fluid on anything that you don't want damaged. It eats paint, clear coat etc.

Draw a diagram of which lines go into which ports on the abs modulator. You don't want to mix them up.

You may need to remove the bed to access the rear line. My truck is a long bed and I was not going to risk kinking my line to force it through.

Lastly, don't let the fluid in the master cylinder get too low when bleeding otherwise it will suck air and make you start again.

Good luck with this! Again post back any questions or issues and I'll do my best to answer them from my own experience with this job. And if you haven't bought lines yet, I got mine from summit racing. Made by classic tube, pre-bent to factory fit and made from stainless steel.

Thanks for the head up Pete...This isn't my first rodeo when it comes to brakes...I just wasn't sure about the proportioning valve and if posed an issue..and i wasn't sure about the ABS...but THANKS to you I now know what I got to do there ! I did print up a copy of a diagram showing what line goes to what port. The pre-bent SS Line kit I brought is re-engineered so you don't have to remove the cab or the bed to run the lines ! I just hope the installation goes off without a hitch...although I Doubt it !

Edited August 25, 2014 by SG Lou

servantsalesmen · August 25, 2014

There will always be a hitch my friend lol

SG Lou · August 25, 2014

There will always be a hitch my friend lol

Trying to be Optimistic...but you're 100% right !

Carder09 · August 25, 2014

Paint them calipers while you are waiting! Give you something to do lol

8.1HD/ALLISON · August 25, 2014

Sounds like things are going good. Just an fyi only time you should have to bench bleed is when you replace master cylinder or run it completely dry. Also it needs to be bled on the bench( hench the name bench bleed) so that the pistons can be fully bottomed out in the bore. You can not achieve this installed on truck. Good luck!

txab · August 25, 2014

Sounds like things are going good. Just an fyi only time you should have to bench bleed is when you replace master cylinder or run it completely dry. Also it needs to be bled on the bench( hench the name bench bleed) so that the pistons can be fully bottomed out in the bore. You can not achieve this installed on truck. Good luck!

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