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What did you do to your "other" car (aka musclecar) today


RyanbabZ71

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Putting on wilwood brakes, finally got the lines and fittings needed. Also trying to get the T56 built to stage 3, but there are no parts in the country to do it for months with no end in site. Anyone got one laying around? Magnum option is about $2k more with a choice of two gear ratios, the same and almost the same.

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Since my back wheels were after-the-fact drilled for 5/8" studs, and its just a regular hole, to get conical lug nuts back on I will use something like this ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KL3WW2/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER ) to make the holes conical like normal wheels and the nuts will fit flush and have more to bite on. I have a bit like that already but it came in a kit and not sure if just one will last long enough.

 

Just need to measure to make sure I get one well bigger than the hole so it will be uniform with constant pressure.

 

Then, it will be fine, and no need for either new wheels or lugs.

 

Think I'll test it today or tomorrow.

 

For illustration, right now the wheels and lugs fit, (I am told the wheel could rip off if it hit a curb parallel, not sure how accurate that statement is)

wheel---> l l <---lug and a washer

Some drag wheels are mounted that way, probably why its like that, used to be a drag car.

 

With just conical lugs it would be

Wheel---> l\ <---lug. Which would techincally "work", but isn't ideal.

 

The goal with the bit, and is normal on modern wheels:

Wheel---> \\<---lug

 

I'm running out of stuff to do myself. Its losing some appeal I gotta say, I was originally looking for more of a driving project, but glad I didn't, my back/body have been angrily protesting this hobby!

Edited by SnakeEyes
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Since my back wheels were after-the-fact drilled for 5/8" studs, and its just a regular hole, to get conical lug nuts back on I will use something like this ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KL3WW2/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER ) to make the holes conical like normal wheels and the nuts will fit flush and have more to bite on. I have a bit like that already but it came in a kit and not sure if just one will last long enough.

 

Just need to measure to make sure I get one well bigger than the hole so it will be uniform with constant pressure.

 

Then, it will be fine, and no need for either new wheels or lugs.

 

Think I'll test it today or tomorrow.

 

For illustration, right now the wheels and lugs fit, (I am told the wheel could rip off if it hit a curb parallel, not sure how accurate that statement is)

wheel---> l l <---lug and a washer

Some drag wheels are mounted that way, probably why its like that, used to be a drag car.

 

With just conical lugs it would be

Wheel---> l\ <---lug. Which would techincally "work", but isn't ideal.

 

The goal with the bit, and is normal on modern wheels:

Wheel---> \\<---lug

 

I'm running out of stuff to do myself. Its losing some appeal I gotta say, I was originally looking for more of a driving project, but glad I didn't, my back/body have been angrily protesting this hobby!

Can you post a picture of what you have? Wheel and a lug?

 

Most performance wheels will use a lug nut the is flat with a washer and that has a shank.

 

35C32746-F71E-4E0A-BA4F-4112EA6007EC_zps

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Also, most performance wheels will already come drilled for a 5/8 stud. The shank of the lug takes up the slack.

I am assuming you mean "drag" when you say performance.

 

I didn't get to it last night, got careless with a new knife (my mind was still thinking I had the dull one) and went to an urgent care.

 

Doing some research, these "mag style" nuts have started showing up again on modern cars, some performance(Japanese made) cars, but the other 99% of cars use tapered/conical style. The thing is my wheel, I think, was originally 1/2" tapered.

 

I think the advice I got may have been a bit dated.

Edited by SnakeEyes
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I am assuming you mean "drag" when you say performance.

 

I didn't get to it last night, got careless with a new knife (my mind was still thinking I had the dull one) and went to an urgent care.

Drag wheels yes, but I have seen other performances application run them. It takes some of the stress off of and adds to strengthen the combination.

 

This is something still very much in use. I just bought a brand new set of Billet Specialties wheels. One of there newest designs and they use a shank style.

 

Most of the Weld wheels I have seen take this style too.

 

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/m20ProductDisplayView?catalogId=10002&langId=-1&productId=1999501&storeId=10001

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What brand of wheels do you have?

Boss motorsports. I called summit, they called boss while I was on the line, and was told Boss DOES NOT MAKE 5/8" wheels. Also, its obvious the nut WAS tapered but was machined down, then he threw a washer on.

 

Like I said, I'm losing interest anyway. Trying to decide what's best for the car, get the little things finished(I thought I was done, lol)

 

I have read aluminum wheels use the flat lug "mag" washer combo because they are prone to warp with the tapered seat.

Edited by SnakeEyes
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Holy crap, I just put my medical boot in the foot well, it takes up all the space on the Right and scrapes the brake pedal.

 

Guess that means I won't be driving it for close to two months(been two weeks, had some rain and snow recently)! I'll still try once I get used to the boot, but not looking good.

Edited by SnakeEyes
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