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What did you do to your "other" car (aka musclecar) today


RyanbabZ71

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Ordered these.http://www.ebay.com/itm/371243458830

 

As long as they look like that I'll be happy. Figured it would cost more or close to get mine fixed and redone.

 

 

Now just need to find new foam for my driver's seat so I can order new material. Changing the car to leather or leatherette. You can find complete new/redone seat sets(assembled) for $1000 but they are for cars with power seats.

 

 

Can upholstery shops make/cut you new foam?

Edited by SnakeEyes
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That's a good price for both door panels.

I offered $20 less and he accepted. But it says he had 3 sets so I hope I got the ones in the pic or they are all that good.

 

 

But now I'm thinking, should I recover the back seats in leather/leatherette and buy some aftermarket seats for the front? Corbeau has some nice seats, some look factory, some look like the 5th Z28 seats, and I have read the quality is higher than Recaro. Some site had a bunch of guys complain the Recaros fall apart pretty quick, and they don't offer replacement parts, and Corbeau is the supposedly opposite. The above option would cost $1100-1600 depending on vynil (leatherette I assume) or leather.

 

 

A "fresh"(redone) 4th gen full set, with power drivers seat, cost $1000 with new leatherette.(need to look if my car has the wiring, seems some or most cars do even with manual seats)

 

 

New covers cost around $600, but I need to get new or perfect used driver seat foam somehow(figure $50-200 for that, NLA so have to find some).

 

 

It seems the best option is to buy the $1000 redone seats(fresh but factory) and sell mine for on ebay, since three are great I would probably get a decent amount)

Edited by SnakeEyes
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Want the full Blackheart exhaust but geez it's expensive($1680 with full 304, $1450 with 304 headers and 409 the rest of the way.) But it's the ONLY true dual system that offers performance, ground clearance with factory fit routing. Crazy that it just came out a year ago, you think

someone would have done it years ago. There are a lot of options but all others have big compromises, like drone, eating clearance, poor fit that needs modifications, etc.

Edited by SnakeEyes
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Check out the Engine Masters episode with denting the headers. You can make clearance. :jester:

 

It really is interesting how many things are still being put on the market for the older GM vehicles.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

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Check out the Engine Masters episode with denting the headers. You can make clearance. :jester:

 

It really is interesting how many things are still being put on the market for the older GM vehicles.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

You need to see what those 67 firebird headers looked like to clear the steering rack on that 541 IAII block. 7 of the tubes were 2", one was......much less.

 

I'm already going to have 5k(including purchase) in the car this week. But the one other guy had 6k in the last 18 months and it still has the parts so I'm way ahead I guess :lol:

Edited by SnakeEyes
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Dropped it off to get the seal fixed. He said they will start in the morning. Seemed like a real car guy, not just a typical mechanic. I thought I saw a 68 inside(just saw the back of it) and he started going over the first gen differences, as it was a 67 with 68 tail lights.(I finished a sentence, told him I owned two over the years), mentioned I loved to do the work before it started hurting.

 

He mentioned on the phone when I scheduked they might have to change some fluids depending on what they find, so I threw everything they would need(Vavoline oil, half max life, half synthetic) and PureOne filter and Redline D4 ATF trans fluid for the T56) in the hatch and wrote "Just in case, otherwise I'm doing it myself" on the box.

 

 

Figure with the cleaned underbody(although I had to drive in the rain today, and it is leaking) and engine bay they will appreciate where I'm coming from, make it as easy as possible on them......

 

OR they will go "oh geez, one of THOSE guys, make sure it's a perfect job now and we won't answer the phone next time." :lol:

Edited by SnakeEyes
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Ok guys, what would you do? The shops said the oil pan gasket has a leak also and it's going to be $522 and labor to get to, I've looked it up online and it's supposed to be a nightmare to change.(lots of "next time I'll pay someone" type stuff)

 

Edit: just found this. Edit 2: comments says also steering rack and alternator need to be moved

 

 

Edited by SnakeEyes
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Just have it done

I called twice to change my mind and never got a call back. Oh well. I'd have to remove the exhaust anyway if I was going to get a new one. I'll just decide one day to do it and take all the time I need. There is a mobile mechanic that can finish if I get stuck so the worst I can do is save a little money by starting myself. And you don't completely removed anything, you just disconnect a bunch of stuff for clearance here and there.

 

And since the two repairs are separate it will cost me the same price now or later.

Edited by SnakeEyes
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Got it back. The shop owner told me "this car has been maintained, and you can tell it has some good [suspension] stuff on it" when they were looking it over. That's a good sign, I'm a car guy thats checked it out but nice to have someone who is elbow deep in car parts everyday say that.

 

 

Oil pan gasket leak isn't too bad, I'd guess I might need a quart every six weeks or so. I was thinking to do the headache when I am planning on putting on a new exhaust, maybe swaybar upgrade at the same time, if the leak stays minor until I'm ready to start.

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Got my steering wheel cover. Man does it look better! Looks as good as a wheelskin(feels great too), hope it holds up as well. I'm thinking of pounding sand at my work, so I might be slowing the pace of improvements to the car.

 

 

I also got the door panels in and they are so nice I'm a little sad I have to cut the carpeted part for the window crank.

Edited by SnakeEyes
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