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Oil - 5-30W


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I know some of the young guys think they can go the full 7,500 miles or so between oil changes, but I would bet most from that school haven't even put 100,000 miles on a car/truck, let alone 300,000? IMO, those oil changes are crucial, if you want to get those high miles out of your vehicles.

 

I'm old school too,but I think these new oils can take it,or should I say, supposed to take it. Parked my '98 Silverado in March when I got my new one. 285,000 and change. I started using Mobil 1 after 70,000 miles and only changed oil twice a year. About every 8-9,000 miles. Only thing done to that 5.7 was water pump, alternator, and starter. Awesome engine for sure!

 

Now maybe these new tighter tolerance engines shouldn't go that long between changes. Who's to say. Lubrication technology is vastly improved. I sure hope their longevity is in the same ballpark. That being said, I've already had the oil in my new one changed twice in 7,000 mile. Still got two more free ones coming. :)

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Mobil 1 synthetic is a whole different animal, a full synthetic. I agree, that you will get more miles between oil changes. The Dexos is a synthetic blend, and may give you more life than a conventional oil? Thus my statement of possibly extending my intervals to 5,000 miles after my fourth oil change at 15,000 miles. In the mean time, I will keep changing it at more regular intervals. And that's only because I believe that the 8-1/2 quart oil capacity can go a little longer than a 5 or 6 quart capacity.

 

I do know one thing for sure, I've never harmed an engine from changing oil too often. Likewise, I have seen what not changing oil at normal intervals will do to other people's vehicles.

 

As far as the "FREE" oil changes, trust me when I say you already paid for them!

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0W-20 oil is thinner oil with lighter viscosity that creates less drag on the crankshaft, pistons and valve-train. Additionally, the oil pump can pump thinner oil more easily, improving oil circulation. Any increase in fuel economy may not be noticed by the average motorist. Machined internal engine parts are more precise than the parts of 20 years ago. This means that clearances between moving parts are smaller and more exact. Thinner oil such as 0W-20 can flow more freely through the engine while still filling the spaces. Thicker oil is harder to push through the spaces between the parts. This causes the oil pump to work harder, which in turn increases oil pressure while simultaneously decreasing oil volume. A lack of oil volume results in a decrease of lubrication and cooling, which may decrease engine part life.

The lighter viscosity of 0W-20 oil flows faster at start-up compared to higher viscosity oils, which helps reduce engine wear in critical areas by lubricating parts faster. Valve-train components at the top of the engine require immediate lubrication at start-up.

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Oil temps come into play here as well. In hot environments and under racing conditions you may find a Xw30 is the same operating viscosity as a 0w20 would be in normal temps. For most of us 0w20 is what we want.

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  • 2 weeks later...

We have two diesels that are over 10 years old and had one we used 15 years for heavy to light pulling. The two we still have, one is a 97 dodge the other is a 2000 ford 7.3 they are used by the parents they will not trade them in. I could list all the gas engine cars and trucks in that time frame, its been a lot, fifty just by me. Once out of warranty we switch to synthetic and extended drain. They older diesels we used Amsoil, they get changed every 25,000 miles, filter at 12,000 miles. We are in the equipment industry and use all the oil testing available to us and never had a oil related failure yet. Now once the warranty is over I go synthetic I double the miles or once a year what ever comes first. There is no reason to change oil at 3000 miles, this is a free country if you want to do that go ahead. When I bought my trailblazer SS in 06 and the oil change light came on between 12 and 15,000 miles on Mobil one that was just one more thing that made it clear to me.

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We have two diesels that are over 10 years old and had one we used 15 years for heavy to light pulling. The two we still have, one is a 97 dodge the other is a 2000 ford 7.3 they are used by the parents they will not trade them in. I could list all the gas engine cars and trucks in that time frame, its been a lot, fifty just by me. Once out of warranty we switch to synthetic and extended drain. They older diesels we used Amsoil, they get changed every 25,000 miles, filter at 12,000 miles. We are in the equipment industry and use all the oil testing available to us and never had a oil related failure yet. Now once the warranty is over I go synthetic I double the miles or once a year what ever comes first. There is no reason to change oil at 3000 miles, this is a free country if you want to do that go ahead. When I bought my trailblazer SS in 06 and the oil change light came on between 12 and 15,000 miles on Mobil one that was just one more thing that made it clear to me.

 

 

I find it hard to believe the 06 Trailblazer would go 12-15k miles before flashing the "change engine oil soon" light. My mom and sisters 08 Equinoxes flash at 3k miles almost exactly. I keep those changed around 5k since they burn a bit of oil tho.

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I find it hard to believe the 06 Trailblazer would go 12-15k miles before flashing the "change engine oil soon" light. My mom and sisters 08 Equinoxes flash at 3k miles almost exactly. I keep those changed around 5k since they burn a bit of oil tho.

The SS came with mobil one like the vette, with extended drains.

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4 free oil changes? Says who?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Says GM. Your dealer should have told you that when you purchased the truck. 4 oil changes within 2 years can be performed by your dealership for free.

i got 3 years oil and full gm recommended service and batteries brakes and tires for life....but thats something my dealership throws in when you service the vehicle with them.

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  • 1 year later...

Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W-30 vs. 0W-20. The technicalities of warranty not withstanding stack up like this:

From a cold start the 0W-20 will flow quickly but so will the 5W-30 Mobil 1. The full synthetic in a heavier weight probably flows as easily as a semi-synthetic in the lower weight. Further, the Ow-20 will drain from the top end quite quickly and may not leave the film of protection up there for a cold start like the free flowing Mobil 1 full-synthetic does.

Once the engine begins to warm up just a little all difference disappears since the chemistry of a multi-viscosity oil regulates it's thickness upward with increasing temperature.

If you are towing or operating in higher temperatures the 20W may thin a little more than good protection may require at these extremes. If your Mobil 1 thickens to its 30W state, it is probably because you NEED it.

It's your truck so do what your conscience dictates but bear in mind the Feds have a heavy hand in decision making and GM might need to recommend the thinner oil to attain the fleet fuel mileage figures.

If you are really interested to know when you need to change oil, go to the mileage figure you feel is right and then pull an oil sample and send it to Blackwell Labs in the supplied mailer and get a full analysis which will include the life left in the sample...less than $10 to get a good handle on oil life as well as your engine's internal condition.

 

IMPORTANT NOTE: What I wrote above is my own OPINION based on many years of working on vehicles. I did a lot of research before I wrote this yet I am still a little unsure of the accuracy of my OPINIONS. Actually came back to delete it before I led someone astray and caused their vehicle harm. Instead, I am leaving it up and asking anyone more knowledgeable who can shed more light upon this subject to tell me where I have erred. Our 2014 has 24,000mi. and has used the 0W-20 till now. It pulls a 6000lb airstream in the Colorado Rockies and the logic I used above makes me feel the discussion above is correct. If I'm wrong, please correct me, I don't want to harm this great truck. Thanks

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For the record, the 5w30 was Mobil 1. It was the recommended weight for my 08 6.0L. I drove that truck in +120F temps down to overnight cold starts at -20F. I changed oil when the OLM light came on and used M1,K&N,STP filters. I sold the truck to my brother last year with 150,000 miles on it. I did the same thing with the truck before that one, a 99 GMT800 6.0L, which now has about 300,000 miles on it. In my experience, the OLM has worked perfectly, so I use it.

My brother came by and I gave him the 5w30 Mobil 1.

 

 

Just out of curiosity, for you guys that do oil analysis; Did you ever have an analysis report that caused you to sell a vehicle?

 

As an engineer, I'm all for more data, but I've never made time for this particular activity in my busy life. But I've also been around engines all my life, rebuilt a few, and think I can detect when an engine is going south from wear. I use a top quality oil (M1) and filters (M1) and change it conservatively. Is there something I'm missing? Genuinely interested, as I've considered starting oil analysis many times.

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Oil analysis has saved us twice. But this was on an engine with know problems nation wide. It was on our 2002 Chevy Venture with the 3.4 V6 engine. It has known issues with intake gasket leaks. Just before 34k miles the UOA came back with coolant in the sample. Took it to the dealer and they found the intake gasket leak. Fixed it under warranty. In the process they installed the updated gaskets. Fast forward to a few more years later and at 130k miles and another sample found coolant in the oil. Instead of putting money into it we traded it in.

 

Remember these new engines have a variable displacement oil pump. It is a newly designed engine. Could running a 5w-30 work, probably, but considering it is a new beast and all the R&D put into it from general use to max hauling/towing capacity in all climate extremes, 0w-20 will serve well.

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