Frame Wax/Undercoating

Pinnacle · May 30, 2015

ugh... well it looks really good now. Mines not to bad but im trying to get it as close to indestructible as possible. Don't know if i should strip the wax, or scuff it and paint over it.

Absolutely sand and paint. I've done many frames and I'm in the industry, I work at a place called Rondex here.

Best way to go is to sand prime paint and clearcoat that is the best way to make it last. Everything else is a temporary fix, simply spraying this with Rust encapsulator wont last more then 2 years in the northern climate.

Edited May 30, 2015 by Pinnacle

20SierraL8T24 · June 3, 2015

stupid question... well maybe kind of stupid... but, if I have a steel drive shaft (this is another truck of mine), would applying the encapuslator or paint, possibly throw it out of balance?

I wouldn't do it...

mjager · June 3, 2015

What about yearly oil spraying the underbody and frame, that would be ok no?

Pinnacle · June 4, 2015

What about yearly oil spraying the underbody and frame, that would be ok no?

Messy, expensive and wont last in our climate.

HondaHawkGT · June 4, 2015

What about yearly oil spraying the underbody and frame, that would be ok no?

Search "Fluid Film" on Youtube...

Here's a few examples:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JJ_esqxCKA

It's not perfect, it'll collect some road dust, but your frame won't rust. You can also spray it in body panels and hard to reach areas. I spray mine with a cheap Harbor Freight LVLP sprayer in the spring and fall. Only takes an hour from start to finish.

Using a wax similar to the factory stuff GM uses is a waste of money. Look at any GM truck with that wax as the sole undercoating and you'll see it doesn't work. I have a coworker that just traded in a 2012 2500HD that had rust bubbling up from underneath the wax. By the time he realized what was going on it was too late and dumped it off on the dealer.

jamin87ss · June 4, 2015

Get my truck oiled every year best $100 I spend

Retired Bob · June 4, 2015

The Fluid-Film looks good --but check the last sentence below from their site:

FLUID FILM is manufactured using an intricate heating and blending process, which combines unrefined woolwax with selective polar agents and corrosion inhibitors, creating a unique, lanolin-based formulation that stops existing rust on contact. Penetrating on contact, it creates a fluid, self-healing barrier that is always active and will not chip or crack, protecting vehicle undercoating's and exposed metals for extended periods of time. Safe for use on all metals, it will stop pitting in chrome, will not harm most paints or plastic, and has exceptional lubricating properties, penetrating to stop squeaks and provide lasting lubricity for all moving parts. Electrically non conductive, FLUID FILM has a high flash point and a thin, flexible composition, making it a perfect protectant for battery terminals and electrical connections.

Care should be taken around non oil resistant rubber goods. May cause swelling. Fluid Film may soften some vehicle undercoatings. This includes undercoating type paints. Check with dealer/manufacturer for compatibility.

mjager · June 4, 2015

Search "Fluid Film" on Youtube...

Here's a few examples:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JJ_esqxCKA

It's not perfect, it'll collect some road dust, but your frame won't rust. You can also spray it in body panels and hard to reach areas. I spray mine with a cheap Harbor Freight LVLP sprayer in the spring and fall. Only takes an hour from start to finish.

Using a wax similar to the factory stuff GM uses is a waste of money. Look at any GM truck with that wax as the sole undercoating and you'll see it doesn't work. I have a coworker that just traded in a 2012 2500HD that had rust bubbling up from underneath the wax. By the time he realized what was going on it was too late and dumped it off on the dealer.

No, I'm talking about the oil spray types, Rust Check, Krown etc

HondaHawkGT · June 4, 2015

No, I'm talking about the oil spray types, Rust Check, Krown etc

From what I've read Krown and Fluid Film are extremely similar.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=266716

HondaHawkGT · June 4, 2015

The Fluid-Film looks good --but check the last sentence below from their site:

FLUID FILM is manufactured using an intricate heating and blending process, which combines unrefined woolwax with selective polar agents and corrosion inhibitors, creating a unique, lanolin-based formulation that stops existing rust on contact. Penetrating on contact, it creates a fluid, self-healing barrier that is always active and will not chip or crack, protecting vehicle undercoating's and exposed metals for extended periods of time. Safe for use on all metals, it will stop pitting in chrome, will not harm most paints or plastic, and has exceptional lubricating properties, penetrating to stop squeaks and provide lasting lubricity for all moving parts. Electrically non conductive, FLUID FILM has a high flash point and a thin, flexible composition, making it a perfect protectant for battery terminals and electrical connections.

Care should be taken around non oil resistant rubber goods. May cause swelling. Fluid Film may soften some vehicle undercoatings. This includes undercoating type paints. Check with dealer/manufacturer for compatibility.

No problems on mine. If anything it's done more to help keep the factory wax on. The factort stuff was too hard and pulling away from the surface of the frame within months of buying it. Hard brittle wax doesn't do much good as a rust preventative.

Pinnacle · June 5, 2015

No, I'm talking about the oil spray types, Rust Check, Krown etc

Do it the way I'm telling ya dude. Scrap the frame, sand, prime, paint and clearcoat. Its the way to go for a one time resolution that will last for years. Its hard work, I've done it, but worth it.

mjager · June 5, 2015

Do it the way I'm telling ya dude. Scrap the frame, sand, prime, paint and clearcoat. Its the way to go for a one time resolution that will last for years. Its hard work, I've done it, but worth it.

No Thanks, I didn't spend 42K to do that

Pinnacle · June 5, 2015

No Thanks, I didn't spend 42K to do that

Whats that got to do with it?

You got a problem with the frame and you can fix it. You want the easy way out then Oil it up or let GM patch it up for you.

mjager · June 5, 2015

Whats that got to do with it?

You got a problem with the frame and you can fix it. You want the easy way out then Oil it up or let GM patch it up for you.

Whats it have to do with it???? Everything, I'm not spending that kinda of money on a brand new truck, to scrape the frame, sand, prime, paint and clear-coat it.

That's absolutey crazy!

nadrojcote · June 5, 2015

Just do what other people do when they buy a new truck, pay someone $500 to lather their undercarriage in goop.

I realized after I painted my frame that it was probably covered under corrosion warranty(which I still have remaining) not bumper to bumper, but I still would have rather done it myself right.