Towing with the 5.3 V8

[cmpcpro]

So if I have this right, the torsion from the bars going to the trailer frame is basically trying to twist the actual hitch in the reciever from back to front, and that torsion or tension is carried through the frame? I have tried looking it up all over, "How weight distribution hitch works" etc, but they don't actually show the mechanics of it, and I am curious.. I don't see how else it could work..

[benitslu]

Best way I can describe it is like a wheel barrow. the handles being the bars transferring the weigh to the front of the tow vehicle.

[seamonster]

You should be more concerned about the frame without the weight distributing set up.

It "distributes" the weight instead of have it all be at the rear. Go to the "equilizer" brands

website and read how they work.

Your hitch is rated for a lot more weight if you use a weight distributing reciever.

They really do work great-------I have talked to many macho guys at the campgrounds

that think they dont need one because they have a 2500 truck but if you look at there hitch

they are overloaded because

they arent using one.

[bdbake01]

So if I have this right, the torsion from the bars going to the trailer frame is basically trying to twist the actual hitch in the reciever from back to front, and that torsion or tension is carried through the frame? I have tried looking it up all over, "How weight distribution hitch works" etc, but they don't actually show the mechanics of it, and I am curious.. I don't see how else it could work..

 

Yes, but it's actually not as "stressful" as you describe. Think of it this way. The hitch ball, that's a pivot point. It's where ALL of the tongue weight is normally applied. This is behind the rear axle, and at the rearmost of the hitch. Assuming the hitch is held to the frame by 4 bolts (humor me here), then the rear two bolts of the hitch are carrying all the weight as only the rear of the hitch is in tension.

 

Now in comes in the WD hitch. It essentially extends the frame of the truck to a point PAST the hitch point to the trailer frame. With the additional torque applied to the hitch from this attachment, now the tongue weight is applied to the rear AND the front of the hitch so instead of the ball becoming a pivot, the weight is applied in a purely downward motion on the truck frame as opposed to a twisting fashion of a simple ball. Think of a teeter-totter that you are lifting instead of sitting on.

 

I hope this is clear. Not the easiest thing to explain in words.

[bdbake01]

You should be more concerned about the frame without the weight distributing set up.

It "distributes" the weight instead of have it all be at the rear. Go to the "equilizer" brands

website and read how they work.

Your hitch is rated for a lot more weight if you use a weight distributing reciever.

They really do work great-------I have talked to many macho guys at the campgrounds

that think they dont need one because they have a 2500 truck but if you look at there hitch

they are overloaded because

they arent using one.

 

This. I've pulled it all, and I'll take an 8,000lb trailer w/ a WD hitch on a 1/2 ton over the same trailer on a 3/4 no WD ALL DAY LONG.

 

From a handling point mind you, I'd love to have the 3/4 diesel in the 1/2. But that's another thread.

[2017HD]

Like you, my WD hitch has chains - I have mine adjusted to use only the first two links - the directions allow as many as 5 links. The adjustment is done with both height and head tilt. And as someone else also said, the bars, the trailer frame and the truck should all be level or parallel to the ground.

 

As far as how they work you really need a course in static systems. The basics of it all is that the wheels of the truck and trailer are fulcrum points and the hitch is a pivot point. The spring bars apply upward forces to the frame which re distributes the force on the hitch pivot both forward to the truck and backward to the trailer wheels.

[benitslu]

Like you, my WD hitch has chains - I have mine adjusted to use only the first two links - the directions allow as many as 5 links. The adjustment is done with both height and head tilt. And as someone else also said, the bars, the trailer frame and the truck should all be level or parallel to the ground.

 

As far as how they work you really need a course in static systems. The basics of it all is that the wheels of the truck and trailer are fulcrum points and the hitch is a pivot point. The spring bars apply upward forces to the frame which re distributes the force on the hitch pivot both forward to the truck and backward to the trailer wheels.

Which angle should I tilt the hitch head to raise the front of my trailer? Last time I hauled, I was on the 5th link. Those bars were in a bind.

[bdbake01]

To raise the front of the trailer you need to angle the hitch head downward more. This will increase the natural, unloaded distance between the ends of the bars and the trailer frame. Since these bars are now further away, loading them to the same # of links will put more rotational torque on the hitch and, therefore, raise the front of the trailer. If your bars are parallel to the trailer now, you will need to add a shim/washer to your trailer head to increase the angle. Note that on some hitches you would actually need to remove a shim, just be sure you are angling it down more. However, if your bars are currently pointing downward now and NOT parallel to the trailer frame, just grab another link or two until your tongue rides where you want it to. Either shortening the chains or adding shims will achieve the same goal of increasing WD action and raising the trailer tongue. But at the end of the day, those bars should be parallel.

 

The chains are not there to simply set the load. They are there to provide a means of matching the hitch dimensions to the trailer dimensions and maaaaybe the occasional tweak to the preload. For instance, you head out with a camping trailer full of 200lbs of water and 100lbs of propane, all on the front. At the end of a rowdy weekend, all the gas and water are gone and the same settings have your tailer tongue pointing to the moon and the rear of the truck is light. Drop a link or two off your chains and go home. Problem solved.

[cmpcpro]

Well I finished installing my airbags lastnight.. Airlift forgot to put in some parts, and put in some wrong parts, etc. but I was able to do it.. They did have to overnight me a part missing though. Anyway, I am only running the minimum 5psi at the moment, but it actually feels like the rear end is more planted now, even empty! Not sure if it's in my mind, but I like them. I will also be buying a WD hitch per everyone here.

[bdbake01]

Just a thought, but watch craigslist. I got a gently used Equalizer for 1/3 retail. I sanded it down, painted it up, looked like new! I called Equalizer told them what I was doing, they sent me a bag of small replacement hardware and stickers for free!

[2017HD]

It is also possible that you have the ball sitting too low, and/or you have the wrong sized bars. I know that EZ Lift says the bars should angle down around 10 degrees or less. You can only install so many spacer washers before you run out of room on the peg they sit on.

[redwngr]

Which angle should I tilt the hitch head to raise the front of my trailer? Last time I hauled, I was on the 5th link. Those bars were in a bind.

It's also important to have the correct height ball mount.

[EXSlider400]

Truck has 5.3, integrated trailer brake, and 3.08. So far does alot better than my 07.

[quickvert1]

Im pulling w mine saturday..5.3 ..342...open 1500 car trailer with my 3400 lb corvette on it..maybe total 5000lbs..im almost positive it will struggle

[wandern]

Im pulling w mine saturday..5.3 ..342...open 1500 car trailer with my 3400 lb corvette on it..maybe total 5000lbs..im almost positive it will struggle

 

A 5,000 lb trailer with almost no wind load? You'll barely know it's back there.

Edited March 5, 2014 by wandern