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I'd at least talk to the dealer's service dept and make certain the required materials are ordered and confirm that the stuff is in before you schedule an appt. See earlier post on this subject (and even the other posts on the same issue) for part numbers required. Maybe even print the repair steps from the posts to give to the service writer.

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I just picked up a 7/14 manufacture date and it still has the waxy coating. Seems thin. The diff is painted on mine. I was able to rub my nail on the frame and remove the wax, so I doubt the clear coat stuff on the newer manu trucks means much. I'll probably buy a can of that touch up stuff posted earlier and go over all the spots after each wash.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had mine half arsed dealer sprayed with liquid film, and then sprayed it myself with oil because the guy who sprayed the liquid film wasn't too careful.

 

I had big sections of the wax peeling off mine, its almost like they forgot to treat the frame before spraying it with wax. I always take the excess grease from greasing joints and smear it around the bare spots. What i find odd is that Dodge uses a similar wax coating called an "e-coat", and it holds up fairly well...I had several Dodges with that wax coat and never had any issues.

 

I've been oil undercoating since the 70s, trucks usually fail mechanically or you get tired of them before they ever rust. Its dirty under there, but there isn't a bolt that i can't get out.

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I just picked up a 7/14 manufacture date and it still has the waxy coating. Seems thin. The diff is painted on mine. I was able to rub my nail on the frame and remove the wax, so I doubt the clear coat stuff on the newer manu trucks means much. I'll probably buy a can of that touch up stuff posted earlier and go over all the spots after each wash.

 

I personally don't think there's a clear coat. I think the wax coating formula was probably adjusted to be better and has more of a sheen to it as a result. Either way it's not the same product they used on the GMT900's and earlier which was extremely reliable.

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I personally don't think there's a clear coat. I think the wax coating formula was probably adjusted to be better and has more of a sheen to it as a result. Either way it's not the same product they used on the GMT900's and earlier which was extremely reliable.

Its def a clear coating over the frame wax BC it was all over the axle, shocks, a arms, ect on my truck and several others on 2 diff dealers lots
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Its def a clear coating over the frame wax BC it was all over the axle, shocks, a arms, ect on my truck and several others on 2 diff dealers lots

 

Oh well that's interesting I didn't notice that when I looked at a co worker's. So GM's logic here is:

 

1) Use cheaper wax coating to save money

2) Cheaper wax coating fails forcing GM to react

3) GM spends money to apply an additional clear coat to protect the cheaper wax coating.

 

So a cheaper wax coating plus the cost of a clear coat is STILL less than the old wax formula they used without any issues? What a dumb company. I can't believe people get paid to make these boneheaded decisions.

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You can clearly see the clear wax

 

Yeah I see it best on the protective boot over the front shocks. That's interesting.

 

For what it's worth, my uncle and a co-worker both happened to pick up 2014 F-150's this past labor day weekend and both trucks have rust forming on some bolts related to the front control arms and the rear axle/differential on both are showing signs of rust. Both trucks are brand new.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
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My truck has rust on the frame. Dealers are so swamped with recalls I took it in for the instrument, transfer case and rust. 8hrs later I got the Tcase recall done only. Most dealers are booked out 2 weeks around tampa. Frigin joke.

 

 

Update. I went to home depot and picked up a can of flat black rust-o-leum enamel. Their top notch stuff. I already had some surface prep cleaner. I think I did an awesome job repairing the 4 major spots. I think it's where the frame was held by robots at the factory or where the cross members were welded in. In those areas, 2 on each side of the truck I had major rust. I took a rag with the prep cleaner and the stuff that was meant to come off, came off. Then I sanded the bad rust spots, wiped again, and did 2 coats of spray. Looks better than what GM did. I also found on the frame in front of the control arms, no coatings. I wiped and sprayed. So for now I have zero rust under the truck. The rear axle has some slight surface rust but I'm not terribly worried about it. When that gets worse I'll hit the axle. I should be good for a few years. I just hope the inside of the frame doesn't rust. Cost me about $7 and 2hrs of my time. Much better than dealing with the special Olympics GM calls the service dept. I had numerous dealers give me a hard time about the rust. Heck, I still need the instrument recall done! It's these kind of things that makes you wonder WTF did I buy this truck when I could of gotten a RAM. If it wasn't for the quiet cabin, G80 Locker and Direct injection.... I'd have a RAM. Direct injection and lockers are important to me.

Edited by FL335i
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Its def a clear coating over the frame wax BC it was all over the axle, shocks, a arms, ect on my truck and several others on 2 diff dealers lots

 

You cant clearcoat that wax. There are different gloss levels of the wax, so you are seeing the gloss wax based (profrom being the manufacturer that I think GM is using). Clearcoat is expensive and as I said in the various paint and chip threads GM is using cheaper and less clearcoat on these trucks.

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6e9ubene.jpg

They even sprayed the diff, and 0 rust at all on it either.

 

This looks like 3M textured Undercoating to me, I'm very familiar with it. Can you ask what they used?

You can clearcoat this because its not wax based.

 

Edited by Pinnacle
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I wish I saw this thread before purchasing my new 2014 Silverado. I haven't even picked up the registration yet and I see the rust issues on my frame and other parts. I don't even have 300 miles on it and there are sections of the frame that appear to have the wax coating completely peeling off and the rust showing underneath.

 

When contacting the dealer, they said TSB #14002A did not apply but #PI0564D did apply. I am waiting to take it in when I pick up my registration. Now I'm wishing I kept my 2002 Tacoma which had less rust appearance than this, even though I live in an area that get snow and lots of salt on the road. I was fortunate to have a good frame on the Tacoma. Toyota had such an issue with frame rust that they were buying back vehicles at 1.5 times blue book cost or having to completely swap out frames.

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