2014+ AFM (Active Fuel Management)

Dearmosd · April 23, 2019

I left mine plugged in for 4 days and no hiccup when starting for the first time

3tspapat · April 23, 2019

They solved the battery issue quite a few versions ago. I just installed mine yesterday so it's too soon to tell if it's going to kill anything.

Sierra Dan · April 25, 2019

On ‎4‎/‎4‎/‎2019 at 12:34 PM, wmgeorge64 said:

So stupid question of the day, and no I did not read all 31 pages. 2014 Silverado, 5.3 59,900 miles and automatic of course. Will doing away with the AFM in town, help the extremely crappy 1-2 or 2-1 shift?? I swear its getting worse, dealer says, "thats just the way it is" I am assuming I just can turn it off or on as needed?

AFM has an impact on shifting and shifting has an impact on AFM

Aside from M5 I can tell you that running E85 makes my 5.3 a rocket and shifts are buttery smooth regardless of AFM.

wmgeorge64 · April 25, 2019

36 minutes ago, Sierra Dan said:

AFM has an impact on shifting and shifting has an impact on AFM

Aside from M5 I can tell you that running E85 makes my 5.3 a rocket and shifts are buttery smooth regardless of AFM.

I would never run E85 in my truck but I tried the M5 today and it works great!!

Sierra Dan · April 25, 2019

4 minutes ago, wmgeorge64 said:

I would never run E85 in my truck but I tried the M5 today and it works great!!

E85 isn't for everyone and can be a debatable subject.

I have ran it in the spring-fall months for years now and do not regret it.

Dearmosd · April 26, 2019

I ran E85 for a couple weeks and took note, then went back to 93 oct and did the same, also 86 oct. 86/93 seem to be the same MPG while the E85 seemed to report less MPG so while comparing price per gallon and gallon per mile it seems to equal so I didnt see the difference to one better than the other unless I am towing then I will go with 93 oct for sure

swathdiver · April 27, 2019

On 4/25/2019 at 4:29 PM, Sierra Dan said:

E85 isn't for everyone and can be a debatable subject.

I have ran it in the spring-fall months for years now and do not regret it.

On 4/26/2019 at 2:51 PM, Dearmosd said:

I ran E85 for a couple weeks and took note, then went back to 93 oct and did the same, also 86 oct. 86/93 seem to be the same MPG while the E85 seemed to report less MPG so while comparing price per gallon and gallon per mile it seems to equal so I didnt see the difference to one better than the other unless I am towing then I will go with 93 oct for sure

E85 allows the engine to make more horsepower and torque which should allow it to run in V4 mode more often if activated.

93 octane gasoline costs me twenty-four cents a mile to burn. E85 costs twenty cents a mile to burn. E30 costs sixteen cents a mile to run.

Just because one type of fuel may deliver less mpgs does not mean it is more expensive to use, one has to do the math and take the time to run several tanks of each and get averages.

You guys with Gen V DI motors will see even more horsepower and torque gains and even lower costs than me with my Gen IV motor.

SierraStorm21 · September 2, 2019

Just traded in my 2018 Chev Silverado LTZ 6.2L on a 2019 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT 6.2L. Have a Range AFM Disabler to sell cheap if anyone is looking for one.

Edit - Sold it

Edited October 14, 2019 by Mstorm18
Sold it

sturtze87 · October 14, 2019

On 9/1/2019 at 9:21 PM, Mstorm18 said:

Just traded in my 2018 Chev Silverado LTZ 6.2L on a 2019 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT 6.2L. Have a Range AFM Disabler to sell cheap if anyone is looking for one.

Still available?

durandetto · October 30, 2019

So I started reading through this thread but man it’s a long one. So I asked a question you may all yell at me cause I’m sure it’s been answered before. Is there any way to turn off afm without voiding the warranty. I read somewhere that the range was untraceable which would allow you to take it off and be fine. I also heard a lot of people having issues with the range thing too. I need some input. Thanks

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You could buy a Diablo tuner and and swap tunes when you take it in for warranty.

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jgraves13 · October 30, 2019

You could buy a Diablo tuner and and swap tunes when you take it in for warranty.

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There’s still a flash count on the ECM. Even if you put the stock tune back, they’ll still be able to tell you tuned it. Only way is with the range

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Grumpy Bear · October 31, 2019

Talk about a long and tedious thread. WOW!

It isn't the AFM anyone feels. It's the convertor clutch disengaging and locking back up when it is activated and deactivated. This is a normal part of the AFM programing intended cushion the hit on the driveline. However the deeper the gear the less effective it is.

If the down hill grade is steep enough to shut the fuel off the AFM will disengage. If not it remains active in the top three gears until below 15 mph +/-.

This device is 'load' dependent not 'speed' dependent. It works in 4-5 & 6 in the six speeds.

The device is good for 20% in fuel when engaged v disengaged. How much you reap depends on the amount of time it is allowed by the operator and conditions to stay on.

A small number of lifter failures are materials/QC related. The larger number are oil system related. Service the system proactively. Replace the VLOM oil inlet screen (under the oil pressure switch) once in awhile. Forget extended OCI's. Lord have mercy.

There is a spot around 40 mph where the converter is locked while in top gear (3.23 FDR). IF you are on coast down or level speed and on cruise the AFM is active. IF there is a rise in elevation of say 10 feet over two hundred yards you might feel a mild shudder that is load v rpm related. Lugging actually. Tap the cruse up 1-2 mph. This unlocks the converter and disengages the AFM. Practice it a bit and it becomes second nature and seamless. Before you whine ask yourself how many times this situation actually presents itself? Just saying. Work with it, not against it.

I know we expect our machines to make our tea and wipe our noses but really....learn to OPERATE the thing. Learning implies an erasure of ignorance...right?

Doublebase · November 2, 2019

On 10/30/2019 at 8:47 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

Talk about a long and tedious thread. WOW!

It isn't the AFM anyone feels. It's the convertor clutch disengaging and locking back up when it is activated and deactivated. This is a normal part of the AFM programing intended cushion the hit on the driveline. However the deeper the gear the less effective it is.

If the down hill grade is steep enough to shut the fuel off the AFM will disengage. If not it remains active in the top three gears until below 15 mph +/-.

This device is 'load' dependent not 'speed' dependent. It works in 4-5 & 6 in the six speeds.

The device is good for 20% in fuel when engaged v disengaged. How much you reap depends on the amount of time it is allowed by the operator and conditions to stay on.

A small number of lifter failures are materials/QC related. The larger number are oil system related. Service the system proactively. Replace the VLOM oil inlet screen (under the oil pressure switch) once in awhile. Forget extended OCI's. Lord have mercy.

There is a spot around 40 mph where the converter is locked while in top gear (3.23 FDR). IF you are on coast down or level speed and on cruise the AFM is active. IF there is a rise in elevation of say 10 feet over two hundred yards you might feel a mild shudder that is load v rpm related. Lugging actually. Tap the cruse up 1-2 mph. This unlocks the converter and disengages the AFM. Practice it a bit and it becomes second nature and seamless. Before you whine ask yourself how many times this situation actually presents itself? Just saying. Work with it, not against it.

I know we expect our machines to make our tea and wipe our noses but really....learn to OPERATE the thing. Learning implies an erasure of ignorance...right?

While I agree with most of this, one thing I do worry about is my transmission because of the AFM (specifically the torque converter clutch and premature wear).

I'm at 40,000 miles now with my truck, my lifetime average in the truck is 24.5 and if it weren't for having to drive through four months of cold winter every year it'd be probably close to 26.

I'm easy on the gas pedal, coasting is my friend, I'm probably in cruise control 50% of my yearly 26,000 mile commute...but I am having a problem keeping this thing from shifting too much. I have experienced the shudder going up a hill twice now - so I do understand when it might happen and how to avoid it - so that's not my issue. I'm not annoyed by the occasional harsh shift, an occasional clunk, an occasional shudder up a hill once in a blue moon...I'm more concerned about wear and tear. And it's not a tranny temp thing...my tranny probably spends 3/4's of the year at 180-185 degrees. It's the constant shifting, converter lockup, converter release. I worry my clutch materials are going to wear away too quickly and I'll be putting a transmission in this thing by 120,000 miles or sooner.

Maybe I have nothing to worry about? I mean, how much are these trannies anyway? How much will they be 5 years from now? Probably not that much...probably only a 3-4 hour job. But it'd not an ideal situation and something I'd like to avoid. I did a simple drain and fill at 25,000 miles....fluid looked fine. I'll be doing a pan drop and filter replace at 50,000 miles. I'll be proactive with this thing the whole way (probably do simple drain and fills every 25,000). So it's not the lifters I'm worried about really, it's the transmission...and if that proves to be a non issue? Well then I have a full sized 4x4 truck with a V8 that I'm averaging almost 25 mpg in...my wife's 2008 Honda CRV is having trouble doing that.

I'll take this truck over an Eco Boost any day of the week. I'd rather have the Silverado and not worry about timing chains, nightmare water pump replacements, turbo inter coolers, cam phasers, worse valve buildup, worse fuel economy.

Grumpy Bear · November 2, 2019

9 hours ago, Doublebase said:

While I agree with most of this, one thing I do worry about is my transmission because of the AFM (specifically the torque converter clutch and premature wear).

I worry my clutch materials are going to wear away too quickly and I'll be putting a transmission in this thing by 120,000 miles or sooner.

Maybe I have nothing to worry about? I mean, how much are these trannies anyway? How much will they be 5 years from now? Probably not that much...probably only a 3-4 hour job. But it'd not an ideal situation and something I'd like to avoid. I did a simple drain and fill at 25,000 miles....fluid looked fine. I'll be doing a pan drop and filter replace at 50,000 miles. I'll be proactive with this thing the whole way (probably do simple drain and fills every 25,000). So it's not the lifters I'm worried about really, it's the transmission...and if that proves to be a non issue? Well then I have a full sized 4x4 truck with a V8 that I'm averaging almost 25 mpg in...my wife's 2008 Honda CRV is having trouble doing that.

We will know soon enough. I'm at 105K so only 15 k to go to acting like a Ford Exploder. :crackup: Your doing fine. It's doing fine. They sky isn't falling. Inhale....exhale..... :cheers:

I've had several people tell me they've cured 'shudder' with Lubegard Red. If shudder (slip/stick of the converter clutch) is really what they are feeling and not just low speed lug. :dunno:

Kudo's on your MPG!

doropallo · November 4, 2019

I bought a 2016 GMC SLT with 42k on it. I noticed that the trans would clunk around town, like it was searching for the gear it should be in so I started to put it M7. It drove better but last week I bought a Range, plugged it in and the truck runs great. No more gear searching, seems peppier and responsive. More like my 2001 it replaced. I'm happy with the Range.