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What have you done to your K2 today?


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Couldnt agree with you more. My generation (24YO, born '95) is the most informed, world-at-its-feet generation and they couldnt find a hammer in a hardware store if they walked in with it.
Mine calls screws nails [emoji38]

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3 hours ago, doubeleive said:

ordered the Katech 80mm l83 ported throttle body, B&M 70392 deep trans pan and a tru-cool 40k, got to figure out how to mount up the tru-cool and avoid the active shutters looks like there might be enough room, has anybody added the tru cool on the 2018? any tips? I already took out the trans thermostat didn't help much.

also you should order the Katech 175 t-stat for the motor.. 

if your trans aint cooler after tranny stat delete, then you most likely didnt do something right. did you tap and plug the internal bi-pass?

 

how you gonna fit the deep pan with stock exhaust? 

Edited by flyingfool
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13 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

also you should order the Katech 175 t-stat for the motor.. 

if your trans aint cooler after tranny stat delete, then you most likely didnt do something right. did you tap and plug the internal bi-pass?

 

how you gonna fit the deep pan with stock exhaust? 

Deep pan will fit I have the same pan on my Yukon all you have to do is unbolt the exhaust a little during install. 

yes on the trans stat delete I took it all out, tapped it and put in a cap inside, I have a heavy foot, i had to do the same thing to my Yukon it would run 220+ just driving around town once I installed the tru cool and deep pan it runs about 135 the most I have gotten it up to since then was 180 and that was beating on it pretty hard normally just driving like I do it runs about 135-160 in the summer and about 125 in the winter

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12 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

you must have big wheels too?

no, I just drive harder than 99% of the population, the transmission is the only part that gets hotter than what I am comfortable with and the underhood heat concerns me I wish I could figure out a way to direct more cool air into and out of the engine compartment, something simple that wouldn't require any major modifications.

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Well, I havent posted any actual mods for a month or so, but heres a few, and I wont forget links this time to start.

 

-  Cabin air filter, which hasnt been changed since it was new. (Now at 77K miles) --------  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CP525XP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

-  Dorman 917-413 Oil Filler Neck (Saw another member with this, thought it was an awesome upgrade, shoutout to [mention=191210]CajunFries[/mention] for the idea. Quite a bit of dremeling, but it was pretty quick and easy.

     https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D8VK6WY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Wheel Locks, dont need to explain much there...i hope ------------------- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028090JM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Underseat Storage Bin (Been wanting this for a while, finally got one) ---- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NZBM3RG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

 

Edited by VanguardK2
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8 hours ago, doubeleive said:

no, I just drive harder than 99% of the population, the transmission is the only part that gets hotter than what I am comfortable with and the underhood heat concerns me I wish I could figure out a way to direct more cool air into and out of the engine compartment, something simple that wouldn't require any major modifications.

i've seen people completly remove the lower plastic cowel and windshield wipers under the windshield on other cars, this lets out a lot of heat under the hood, without having to buy a fiberglass race hood. usually its like a 8-10 inch opening once removed. not sure how it would work on our truck tho , i would reinstall the wiper arms afterwards for function

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i've seen people completly remove the lower plastic cowel and windshield wipers under the windshield on other cars, this lets out a lot of heat under the hood, without having to buy a fiberglass race hood. usually its like a 8-10 inch opening once removed. not sure how it would work on our truck tho , i would reinstall the wiper arms afterwards for function
We did that on track cars. Remove the rubber that seals the hood to the cowl. Or all the plastics. Other then that we raised the rear of the hood. Looks horrible but the large gap let are through. Other then that change fan speeds, lower or deleted thermostat, and huge radiator air dams up
Under vehicles.

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yeah , maybe you can fabricate a grill cover , and powder coat it black so it simulates the look of the plastic lower cowling but its still full flow venting to let the heat out

Edited by flyingfool
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my original thought was maybe some electric fans, one on each side to blow cool air up from the bottom but quiet ones generally fans are noisy though. I could pick up one of those wireless cooking thermometers and see what the temps actually are under the hood while moving then experiment with a couple different things and see what works better.

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There are holes in the steel bumper that get covered with plastic. Just like older HD trucks had that spot open for trans cooler. Hard to get more air then that. And I have no temp issues and my exhaust gas is 1500* but I would think this little guy helps.8e02613b473741ebab0e9601d50b147b.jpg

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b8b06be15589ddd53fbad95a330f1354.jpg

:FLAME SUIT ON:

Baja Design Squadron Pro facing forward and Rigid Flood for ditch light. The Baja Design is hooked up to the high beam. The Rigid is hooked up to the OffRoad Light button.

The mount is from SDHQ with an add on extra plate for the second light.

In the next month or so I’ll switch the Rigid out for another set of Baja Design.


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