2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

[LTZTom]

I need to cut my bump stops, plan on doing it once it warms up. Only bad about leveling the rear is it moves the shock up 2" into the valving range. I have found on hard dips the truck will blow thru the valving pretty quick and allow the rear end to bottom out and hit the bumps stops. I am waiting on Rancho to get the OEM specs for the shocks and see if they make a shock that will work with a leveled setup.

Mine seems fine but I'd like to know what you find out about the shocks.

 

 

Tapatalk via iPhone 5s

[brentadams646]

Really bad pic, I was in a hurry so I just snapped this one pic really quick. It came out perfect.

 

[brentadams646]

Here is a better pic. I'll post some good pictures next week after I have the chrome and tailgate handle painted.

 

[Cook]

What are the measurements? The rear looks lower than the front

[brentadams646]

Its just the angle, it sits 1/8" higher in the rear. I believe it was 36" front and 36 1/8" rear.

 

here is another pic

 

[iCryWheniGoPoop]

Hey Tulsa, Broken Arrow guys, Broken Arrow here as well and Tom, you will need to cut those bump stops.

 

A few things you guys need to think about when lowering your trucks with these 2" shackle drops

 

1. Cutting off the bump stops are easy, I simply stuck a hack saw up there and cut them off in less than 60 seconds.

 

2. One thing most guys don't look at is how close the bed seam is to the spring now that it has been lowered. I got up there with my camera and one side was actually hitting and the other had about 1/16" clearance, so I had to roll over the bed seam just above the shackle. Withough doing so, I was sure to have a rubbing issue over time.

 

3. When tightening up the shackle bolts, be sure and put all the weight on the springs either by putting it back on the ground or putting the jack stands under the axle. If you tighten up the shackle bolts while the axle is hanging, you are essentially locking the shackle/spring bushings in that position and when you lower it, they will have torsional pre-load/pressure on the rubber causing premature wear and possibly squeaking.

 

4. I bought the cheap shackles from autozone, if you tighten them to spec (do not over tighten) and put the weight on the springs before tightening like I mentioned in item 3 you shouldn't have any issues with squeaking like other users are complaining about. I have had mine on for a couple months and have no hnit of an issue. Also It is really easy to drill and tap a hole in your cheap shackle from autozone if you want a grease zerk.

 

Steve

[iCryWheniGoPoop]

No. I also have the 2" shackles but it was still about ¾" too high in the rear. Thanks to brentadams646 I found out about the blocks. I replaced the factory 1¼" with a ½" block and that made up the difference. Now it's perfect

Tom,

 

Did you pick up those blocks here locally in BA? It doesn't look like you put any wedges in there, are you getting any vibration now that you lowered it that extra 3/4"? I was figuring that we may need about 2-3* correction to keep factory drive line angle but I didn't get any vibration with just the shackles so I didn't mess with correcting the angle. If I put the blocks in I will probably go ahead and put the wedges in since I will be in there anyway.

[brentadams646]

Tom,

 

Did you pick up those blocks here locally in BA? It doesn't look like you put any wedges in there, are you getting any vibration now that you lowered it that extra 3/4"? I was figuring that we may need about 2-3* correction to keep factory drive line angle but I didn't get any vibration with just the shackles so I didn't mess with correcting the angle. If I put the blocks in I will probably go ahead and put the wedges in since I will be in there anyway.

No need for wedges. My suspension guy has been doing it for 30 years and assured me, if there is no vibration you don't need the shims. Neither tom or myself have vibration issues.

[iCryWheniGoPoop]

Don't take this the wrong way but Just because you don't feel it, doesn't mean it's not there and that small vibration over time can still take out U-joints, pinion/diff bearings and transmission components. I really didn't think we would have an issue with a 2" drop but I just wanted to get some input from others that have dropped theirs. I haven't been building cars for as long as your guy but I have been doing it 28. From mild to wild, street strip off-road specializing in LSx builds. It's been killing me not to start tuning on this new DI engine but I don't want to throw my warranty out the window on an unproven design, so I have started looking at other ways to tinker on it until I feel that the majority of the bugs have been resolved. So far my truck has been issue free besides the TSB/recalls with 9000 miles already.

 

Good

[Cook]

Did you replace the shocks?

[brentadams646]

lol we'll I can't fix something that's not there. I'm majorly OCD, my last truck had the slightest drive line vibration from being lowered 3/5 and I knew it was there while others never noticed it. I can assure you this truck, as well as LTZTom's have not the slightest hint of a drive line vibration.

 

Being the type of person who has slammed every vehicle i've ever own, during my research on these new trucks people aren't experiencing drive line issues until they lower the truck 5-6" in the rear.

 

3/5 F150

 

 

SLAMMED G8

 

 

lol sorry just a reason to post a few of my previous rides lol

[brentadams646]

Did you replace the shocks?

 

No need to, someone one here was talking about feeling the shocks bottom out, but after lowering mine, I think the bump stops were hitting (on his). Here is what they look like if they are not trimmed. I trimmed them off at the first large indention from the bottom.

 

[LTZTom]

Hey Tulsa, Broken Arrow guys, Broken Arrow here as well and Tom, you will need to cut those bump stops.

 

A few things you guys need to think about when lowering your trucks with these 2" shackle drops

 

1. Cutting off the bump stops are easy, I simply stuck a hack saw up there and cut them off in less than 60 seconds.

 

2. One thing most guys don't look at is how close the bed seam is to the spring now that it has been lowered. I got up there with my camera and one side was actually hitting and the other had about 1/16" clearance, so I had to roll over the bed seam just above the shackle. Withough doing so, I was sure to have a rubbing issue over time.

 

3. When tightening up the shackle bolts, be sure and put all the weight on the springs either by putting it back on the ground or putting the jack stands under the axle. If you tighten up the shackle bolts while the axle is hanging, you are essentially locking the shackle/spring bushings in that position and when you lower it, they will have torsional pre-load/pressure on the rubber causing premature wear and possibly squeaking.

 

4. I bought the cheap shackles from autozone, if you tighten them to spec (do not over tighten) and put the weight on the springs before tightening like I mentioned in item 3 you shouldn't have any issues with squeaking like other users are complaining about. I have had mine on for a couple months and have no hnit of an issue. Also It is really easy to drill and tap a hole in your cheap shackle from autozone if you want a grease zerk.

 

Steve

 

I have absolutely no problem with ANYTHING. And why would I want to cut the bump stops off? My truck rides perfectly. I can't figure that one out. This is not the first truck that I've lowered and have never had any problem with rubbing, squeaking, etc. Thanks for the info but, as Brent said, we both are happy with the way out trucks came out so why mess with success?

Edited February 21, 2014 by LTZTom

[iCryWheniGoPoop]

I have absolutely no problem with ANYTHING. And why would I want to cut the bump stops off? My truck rides perfectly. I can't figure that one out. This is not the first truck that I've lowered and have never had any problem with rubbing, squeaking, etc. Thanks for the info but, as Brent said, we both are happy with the way out trucks came out so why mess with success?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I agree 100% Tom, It is your truck and if you are happy with the ride quality then by all means don't change a thing. It may not have sounded like it, but It was just a suggestion.

 

The rest of the information that I posted was for users that are attempting to do this install and I wanted to make sure that they get the correct information along with as much detail as possible... like pointing out the how the bed seam can come in contact with the spring after lowering. Also.. any real suspension guy knows to tighten all suspension components when the suspension is loaded but most DIY do not and I wanted to make sure that they had that information available.

 

I'm already contemplating that $200 2/4 lowering kit from Rough Country. Do either one of you local guys know anybody around here that has done that install. I'm kind of leery of the weight of the truck riding on the heads of 4 Grade 9 bolts in the front but damn that's a good price to drop it that much.

Edited February 21, 2014 by iCryWheniGoPoop

[brentadams646]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I agree 100% Tom, It is your truck and if you are happy with the ride quality then by all means don't change a thing. It may not have sounded like it, but It was just a suggestion.

 

The rest of the information that I posted was for users that are attempting to do this install and I wanted to make sure that they get the correct information along with as much detail as possible... like pointing out the how the bed seam can come in contact with the spring after lowering. Also.. any real suspension guy knows to tighten all suspension components when the suspension is loaded but most DIY do not and I wanted to make sure that they had that information available.

 

I'm already contemplating that $200 2/4 lowering kit from Rough Country. Do either one of you local guys know anybody around here that has done that install. I'm kind of leery of the weight of the truck riding on the heads of 4 Grade 9 bolts in the front but damn that's a good price to drop it that much.

 

I've talked to a guy who has the 2/4 rough country and loves it, says it rides just like stock. It will sit a little higher in the rear, you'll need to adjust the rear by getting a lowering block but not sure what size would fix it.