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Oil catch can?


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Thanks for the reply, it runs from the side of the can to the manifold and the check-valve has the little arrow on it pointing toward the manifold. I tested it by blowing through it as well. I dont have any hard bends but where it turns by the valve cover/radiator hose is where it flattens.

 

 

 

Hmmm, it sounds like you have everything installed correctly. Don't know why your hose is collapsing or appearing to collapse. This type of hose is fairly soft and pliable. I believe it is pretty common for it to deform a bit while your engine is running and has manifold vacuum. You could also have a piece of defective hose, but that is unlikely. I thought about it a bit more. No need to go to a CAT dealer. If you can find a supplier of hydraulic hose, you might pick up six or seven feet of 100R6 and give it a try. It will not collapse or deform in this application. There are certainly several places in the Indy area where you can find what you are looking for. One other thought, if your can is catching product, that is your best indication that it is working properly. Good luck!

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Thanks for the reply guys, made a quick video so you get an idea of what Im seeing. Might be worrying about nothing. The can is working, I catch as much as anyone else from what I have seen posted. I do have a hissing but there are zero leaks. If I squeeze the hose hiss is gone, so leads me to believe its just noise from air passing through the can and lines.

 

https://vid.me/oj0t

 

Ignore when I say throttle body, meant to say the line that goes to the intake. Its the line from the side of the can to the side of the intake.

Edited by jrob56
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Seems weird it only does it after the check. Like the check is open but, the orifice that remains when it is open passes less air the manifold wants or less air than the 3/8" hose before it. I'd look into a little stiffer hose. The check valve seems to be more for boosted applications anyway as boost creates manifold pressure at certain times where as the NA engine never produces pressure in the manifold

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Seems weird it only does it after the check. Like the check is open but, the orifice that remains when it is open passes less air the manifold wants or less air than the 3/8" hose before it. I'd look into a little stiffer hose. The check valve seems to be more for boosted applications anyway as boost creates manifold pressure at certain times where as the NA engine never produces pressure in the manifold

 

Yeah I was considering just removing the check valve. Seems like everyone isnt running one. This truck will be pretty stock for its life.

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Yeah I was considering just removing the check valve. Seems like everyone isnt running one. This truck will be pretty stock for its life.

 

You need better hosing. The hose you are using is rated for Fuel lines which are not under much vacuum. Get yourself some transmission tubing, or tubing that is rated for high pressure. Then the line wont collapse and then your hissing will go away.

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Just thought I'd post some pictures of the valves in my wife's Acadia at 30k miles. I manually cleaned the valves yesterday before adding an Elite E2-X catch can. After seeing this I'm glad I manually cleaned them (not a spray cleaner - CRC or Seafoam) and installed a catch can. I can tell a difference in acceleration after cleaning the valves. We'll see about any mileage improvements in a few weeks/months between cleaning the valves and the catch can.

 

I've had the standard Elite can on my truck since about 800 miles and upgraded to the E2-X can today (performers better with GDI engines - so I'm told/read).

 

I guess I can check them in another 3 years/30k miles and see if the catch can helped any! I think it was a good investment.

 

Anybody want my standard catch can its for sale - pm me.

 

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Edited by CH15GMC
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With the Elite can, the only bracket option is the 6.2. Is this what people are using? I have a 2015 Sierra.

Yes, that's correct. It can be mounted on the Master Cylinder bolt or in the area of the spare battery. Same bracket works in either location.

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It definitely been an interesting read going through all the pages. I was set on a dual Mike Norris can setup until I read about the new Elite Can. Is the Mike Norris can one of the cans that only caught 15-40%. On a side note I took my infrared temp gun and read the temp tonight at the brake booster, and spare battery tray after a drive to see the difference. The battery tray is the way to go there for sure.

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It definitely been an interesting read going through all the pages. I was set on a dual Mike Norris can setup until I read about the new Elite Can. Is the Mike Norris can one of the cans that only caught 15-40%. On a side note I took my infrared temp gun and read the temp tonight at the brake booster, and spare battery tray after a drive to see the difference. The battery tray is the way to go there for sure.

What does the temp difference help with? I'm from Wisconsin where my truck can sit out in some pretty cold temps. I've held off with my purchase not completely sure if the cold weather could have any negative effects. From some of the pictures it looks as though the can can catch a lot of condensation and oil in the winter. Anyone have any freeze ups from an E2x can?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I'm in Minnesota (go vikes btw) and I've been running an Elite can for a few thousand miles now. I haven't noticed any negative effects from the cold (although this has been a mild winter)

 

The one thing to be aware of is the amount of condensation. I have a short drive to work so I have been catching a lot of water - which means emptying the can after only a few hundred miles.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

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What does the temp difference help with? I'm from Wisconsin where my truck can sit out in some pretty cold temps. I've held off with my purchase not completely sure if the cold weather could have any negative effects. From some of the pictures it looks as though the can can catch a lot of condensation and oil in the winter. Anyone have any freeze ups from an E2x can?

 

 

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From what I've read the cooler the can is kept the better it will condensate the oil vapors. It was 35 degrees ambient air temperature when I took the readings immediately after parking the truck. On the brake booster it was 86.4f, and it was 52 degrees at the spare battery location. You'll have noticeably more condensation in the can during the winter especially if you take short trips.

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