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Oil catch can?


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Haha darnit fondupot, I've been very pleased with my Duel Can setup but now I'm tempted to toss a second evacuation port on the cans!

 

Haha, sorry. The can you have now is still functional. And this modification is pretty easy and cheap if you have the tools to do so. I'd say go for it. Nothing to lose.

 

 

 

 

Has anyone here looked into Corksport catch cans? My cousin is getting ready to put one on his Mazda Speed 3. This brand appears to be pretty popular with the Mazda folks.

 

Never heard of them. But On their catch can page, they have a cutaway drawing of their can design. Basically looks like the inlet and outlet are in the same chamber. This wont do much for catch oil. I'd tell your cousin to steer clear. On the Original RX can (like mine) and the Elite E2-X can, the inlet is isolated and the oil blowby then drips down into the bottom of the can, and the exhaust ports only filter out clean air.

 

 

This is the corksport can below:

32986_Gen-6-88-OCC-Oil-Catch-Can-Cut-Vie

Edited by fondupot
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That is correct. Like most cans (99% plus) they are either empty or have very little true function in the design. You must take into consideration flow rate, the internal volume, both coalescing and condensation as well as how the Bernoulli and Venturi Principals are going to work against most designs.

 

That can is just an empty can with an inlet and outlet right next to each other so 90% of the vapors simply do a quick U-turn and back out with no separation of the oil and other compounds from the vapor.

 

Most purchase by appearance, or marketing popularity. Almost never by actual effectiveness and function.

 

Just the can size it'self. Any less than say 12 oz's (many are 1.5-2.5 oz!) the average rate of flow will prevent all but the largest condensing droplets from being pulled through and out. The flow must slow to the point of negating the Bernoulli and Venturi effects at just the most basic. You must also ensure the incoming oil laden vapors are never mixed with the scrubbed and cleaned vapors exiting at any point inside the can. Also, even a beer can with 2 fittings popped in works at app. the same level of efficiency as most cans on the market, so although when emptied there is always some oil caught due to the condensing effect, it is only a fraction of the total passing through, so not much more than a "placebo" effect for the buyer.

 

That is why the in depth testing ANY one can perform easily to see how poorly or how well an certain can does work. ANY over 40% effective are in the top couple percent as far as the market, and only a few reach into the 90% range with the new ELite E2-X series being at the very top.

 

Anyone with another brand, no matter how much it cost (some are beautiful machined quality looking but actually perform very poorly), with some $500-$1100 or more! Put a Elite E2-X in line AFTER any and see. It will catch as much or more that is getting past the first one AFTER it did it's best, and then do this for the same miles in reverse with the E2-X first and the other second and see almost nothing getting past the E2-X.

 

Here are the basic designs most are using under many brands. All of these have been used and tested for 1000 miles on the same vehicle just as I describe any of you can do:

 

The basic nice looking can. Has site tube to see level, etc.:

 

DSCN1817_zps05lugfhq.jpg

 

But inside?

DSCN1818_zpsqbnjjksr.jpg

 

And even more attractive outside:

 

DSCN1819_zpsdcitor7d.jpg

 

But inside? Still an empty can.

DSCN1820_zpsxssrcpgi.jpg

 

And a similar version to the corksport:

 

DSCN1815_zpsnywuoata.jpg

 

And internally:

DSCN1816_zpstbwfqnww.jpg

 

And finally the biggest names best. priciest can:

 

Brand%20X%20vs%20Moroso%20002_zpsnajcwhf

 

And internally:

Brand%20X%20vs%20Moroso%20004_zpsxpuikqb

Billet%20cans%20internal_zpsid4dhk95.jpg

Billet%20cans%20internal1_zpsjbxa8khv.jp

 

 

So you can see, even some of the priciest, most known names have not taken much science into account and only "assumptions" on how a machinist "thinks" would work. The last design is the most common and used in dozens of brands (made by the same 2 machine shops in FL) and it is simple to see the video of it in action with a clear bottom on youtube. Oil enters the right side and flows down the side, then is drawn up and out the left side! Only trapping a small percentage of the total.

 

The vapors are traveling a total of app. 12" through the E2-X without mixing at any time with dirty vapors entering. 4 separate chambers, 3 separate separating and collection processes for the ultimate in effectiveness.

 

AND, the other previous released Elite cans also will beat most any other in this test to varying degree's making them STILL some of the most effective for the $ anywhere.

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And here is a diagram of what the Original RX can and E2-X cans look like inside. See how the intake goes deep into the can and the oil drips off and accumulates below. Then clean air exits the can.

 

Qt7p82u.png

Edited by fondupot
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I didn't want to quote your whole post as it was quite long with the pictures and texts.

 

This is the problem with the automotive aftermarket. Most people don't know the history and background of a company and only go by price or reputation for the most basic items with no real information and the effect of the item, for instance your example of the Mishimoto can. Mishimoto was and is a knock off brand with little to no R&D in any of their products, like most companies, whether they are ebay sourced or even "reputable" shops that just rebrand Chinese/Tawainese knock offs.

 

The auto enthusiast needs to inform themselves in what they are buying and the effects of what they are buying. In all of my research, I only felt their were really a select few cans that I would have bought myself for my 95 TT Supra, 67 Yenko Camaro, 92 Civic, 97 98 99 SC300, 93 94 95 MR2, 00 Integra, and most recently my 14 Sierra. Other than my Sierra, I went with the Saikou Michi can, as it had the best design I believed would work. All my others were custom setups. The RX can came up in a close second if not tied for an easy mod not a custom can.

 

Informing oneself in what you are adding to your vehicle is the main thing that as a whole our community is lacking. I commend you for adding information for everybody to review and learn, but choosing the worst cans you can think of and comparing is a biased comparison in my opinion. To many others it is not because their lack of knowledge in the subject.

 

With that said, GDI Tech is steering everybody in the right direction. Take his information in and do your own research and decide what is best for you. There are plenty of information out there on the internet from Japanese import forums, European Import forums, and Domestic forums to help. Pretty much, if a company will not have documentation how their products are designed or work, they probably aren't worth it and just smoke and mirrors. Don't go by just looks.

 

I would love to name a few companies for yall, but most are custom one off parts and that is not what the majority are looking for. But for our community with the basic bolt on and minimal work, I would go with RX and Saikou Michi for yall.

Edited by henrypbui
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And just to stress again RX Speedworks is NOT the Original RX Performance.

 

Until RX Performance starts selling direct again I would recommend the Elite series of cans.

 

The saikou michi can seems to be of similar design so I would also consider that a viable option.

 

@henrypbui well said! That's one reason I make my videos.

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by fondupot
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And just to stress again RX Speedworks is NOT the Original RX Performance.

 

Until RX Performance starts selling direct again I would recommend the Elite series of cans.

 

The saikou michi can seems to be of similar design so I would also consider that a viable option.

 

@henrypbui well said! That's one reason I make my videos.

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Guys,

 

How do we tell if we got the good RX can? I bought mine back in May and would like to know if I got the Chinese piece or the good one. Does anyone have any pictures of the two?

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Guys,

 

How do we tell if we got the good RX can? I bought mine back in May and would like to know if I got the Chinese piece or the good one. Does anyone have any pictures of the two?

There are pics earlier in the thread posted by GDI tech. Or you can watch my videos and compare your can to what you see.

 

The RX Speedworks can is like glued together. The real RX is all one piece welded together.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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So I go out to install my clean side separator today and just notice that I dont have the 1/2 inch hose to connect the valve covers together. I got the 3/8 to go from the oil cap to the air intake thingy. Was the 1/2 hose supposed to come with the rest of the clean side separator stuff or is that something I have to buy extra.

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So when I go to order an E2-X can, it doesn't ask me what model truck I have . How will yall know what brackets to send with the can? And can I specify what color bracket and hardware I'd like? I could do that with the previous versions. Does this can now come with a CSS? And with a 5.3 motor will I need the single or dual valve version? Awaiting response to order.

 

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

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So when I go to order an E2-X can, it doesn't ask me what model truck I have . How will yall know what brackets to send with the can? And can I specify what color bracket and hardware I'd like? I could do that with the previous versions. Does this can now come with a CSS? And with a 5.3 motor will I need the single or dual valve version? Awaiting response to order.

 

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Brianibew is correct. Just put in the notes your vehicle.

 

Thank henrypbui,

 

Good info.

 

The SM can is very good as well, the only place it falls short is the coalescing media is at the end of the flow right at the outlet and this allows some oil to be pulled off the media and out the outlet. If they move the outlet to the top of the can then that will help eliminate a good deal of that. The outlet most be 3-4 inches from any puddled oil or any media that captures the oil.

 

smc_internal_design_565x725_zpszlcb7xaf.

 

Before their revision last year the media was just in the entire can with no separation, so they are making improvements.

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