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Oil catch can?


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I'm about to order the Elite Engineering can. I only need the single exit port, right? Also, no need for check valves.. right?

 

Is the clean-air oil separator worth the money? From what I understand it only applies during WOT, but I do like to floor it frequently enough.

 

Last question. How do you drain this can? Do you just unscrew the bottom, dump it, and re-screw it back on? If so, wouldn't oil leak through the threading where it screws together?

 

Keep in mind I live in a climate that has both extremes of weather. Can be as cold as -40C in winter and as hot as +40C in summer.

 

Thanks

Edited by Habs
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I'm about to order the Elite Engineering can. I only need the single exit port, right? Also, no need for check valves.. right?

 

Is the clean-air oil separator worth the money? From what I understand it only applies during WOT, but I do like to floor it frequently enough.

 

Last question. How do you drain this can? Do you just unscrew the bottom, dump it, and re-screw it back on? If so, wouldn't oil leak through the threading where it screws together?

 

Keep in mind I live in a climate that has both extremes of weather. Can be as cold as -40C in winter and as hot as +40C in summer.

 

Thanks

Correct from what I understand just the one with one port is needed and no check valves. I believe those are for engines with turbos.

 

Seems like most are just doing the dirty side.

 

Yes, just unscrew the bottom of the can off and empty. My Elite can has a rubber o-ring by the threads so it does not leak at all. It actually came with a spare one too. I had no issues with mine this past winter in below freezing temps.

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I'm finding some oil wet spots around the check valve of my RX catch can which tells me my side mechanic was correct, a catch can will not catch 100% of everything. I noticed it after switching to full synthetic. My guess is the little bit of oil left in the gases exiting the can is hitting the check valve and a small amount is condensing over time and settling in the bottom of the valve.

 

My bottom line conclusion: A catch can will not solve valve build-up 100% but it will no doubt help cut it down and make your engine run better since it's not compensating for the oil and moisture in the crankcase gases. However, we still should get a BG induction service performed once every 15,000 miles to keep things nice in clean for the long term.

 

Of course if you plan on getting rid of your truck at or before approximately 100,000 miles, you probably can skip all of this and just drive it without a worry and eventually unload it.

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I'm finding some oil wet spots around the check valve of my RX catch can which tells me my side mechanic was correct, a catch can will not catch 100% of everything. I noticed it after switching to full synthetic. My guess is the little bit of oil left in the gases exiting the can is hitting the check valve and a small amount is condensing over time and settling in the bottom of the valve.

 

My bottom line conclusion: A catch can will not solve valve build-up 100% but it will no doubt help cut it down and make your engine run better since it's not compensating for the oil and moisture in the crankcase gases. However, we still should get a BG induction service performed once every 15,000 miles to keep things nice in clean for the long term.

 

Of course if you plan on getting rid of your truck at or before approximately 100,000 miles, you probably can skip all of this and just drive it without a worry and eventually unload it.

 

Once I get mine installed and I hit that 15K mile mark down the road I want to boroscope the valves and see what they look like. I can see induction services making there way to most dealers as more engines become DI, or they go the route of an auxiliary injector. Which one can they make more money off of? A good guess. :loser:

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Once I get mine installed and I hit that 15K mile mark down the road I want to boroscope the valves and see what they look like. I can see induction services making there way to most dealers as more engines become DI, or they go the route of an auxiliary injector. Which one can they make more money off of? A good guess. :loser:

I tried to bore scope mine but couldn't because the way the intake is designed, there's no way to get a bore scope in there to see the valves. You have to remove the valley cover to see the valves and I wasn't about to do that on my engine having only 14,900 miles at the time.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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So i guess my last concern is, will dealer give you a hard time about warranty if you have a catch can installed? I know they have to prove it caused the issue, but still...? I thought I remember reading a few people on here have gone to the dealer with no complaints so far.

 

I guess i could ask my service guy, maybe he would know?

I went to the dealership today for my oil change. They didn't say anything about the catch can. I can't see them really having issuses with a catch can. Seems like a pretty low risk modification.

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I went to the dealership today for my oil change. They didn't say anything about the catch can. I can't see them really having issuses with a catch can. Seems like a pretty low risk modification.

We have not had any issues with the dealers and our Catch Cans.

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I went to the dealership today for my oil change. They didn't say anything about the catch can. I can't see them really having issuses with a catch can. Seems like a pretty low risk modification.

Good to hear this. I still bet it very well could be a Crap shoot at the end of the day with warranty. Regardless, after reading everything here now and having 250 miles on my truck, I drive every day thinking my valves are getting coated in oil! ! I think I'm just going to do it. I've seen and read too much not to.

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Good to hear this. I still bet it very well could be a Crap shoot at the end of the day with warranty. Regardless, after reading everything here now and having 250 miles on my truck, I drive every day thinking my valves are getting coated in oil! ! I think I'm just going to do it. I've seen and read too much not to.

it would be a BS move on the dealership to cry you modified your emissions system and void it but it could be possible just get to know your service writer and you can usually figure out what they will and will not tolerate

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I'll relate an experience my friend had with his airplane and other airplane owners as well.

 

My friend was flying along in his airplane equipped with a oil catch-can/separator, which actually vents overboard. All of a sudden, oil sprayed out of the engine cowl and covered the windshield. He made an emergency landing at a military base. Upon investigation, the catch-can was found to be filled with grease like light brown substance. This substance is a mixture of oil and water. There have been enough of these incidents that manufacturers of these products as well as airplane makers that equip airplanes with these components have issued service bulletins instructing that these things be serviced annually by flushing them with cleaning solvent. Keep in mind, these are not closed cans, but have drains in the bottom.

 

With a non-draining catch can, you don't ever want to let it fill up completely. The engine could get a gulp of the liquid in the can which could cause severe damage. Keep the can clean and don't let it fill up.

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Good info there, Spur. Some of these cans are REAL small - won't take a whole lot of oil or water to fill it completely.

 

Yeah, that would be an ugly scene in the sky, losing an engine due to a gulp of sludge. No place to pull over up there ... :noway:

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My Rx can came in yesterday. I decided to read through the thread again. Looking at some pictures it looks as though the check was redesigned, I'll post pics of the kit later. My slight concern is the size of the can and the hose lengths provided, which the latter I can just buy more if needed. It was right after I ordered the can they advertised the monster can being recommended in colder climates which is a fact of life in Canada, being as meticulous as i am if i keep the smaller can ill be draining every week in the winter for good peace of mind. I'll probably run this through the summer and see how it works.

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Fun fact, I have my brother interested in one as well now, he was a 2014 F150 with ecoboost and about 20K miles on it, not impressed with the declining mileage. I told him to take a look at his pcv lines and intake, nicely soaked with oil. Ecoboosts are bad in that that stuff is churning through the turbo before going to his intake, can't be too good.

 

He probably needs a induction service already.

Ford released a TSB on carbon buildup in Ecoboost engines. They warn against performing an induction cleaning. Apparently chucnks of carbon break free and blow through the turbos.

 

Ford is instructing dealers to replace the heads if there's too much carbon.

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Attached pic of the kit.

 

There's this silver clamp that isn't in any previous pics I have seen in this thread.

 

You can also see the silver check valve by the bag of fittings that's also different looking than others in this thread.

post-79641-0-76397100-1433114514_thumb.jpg

post-79641-0-76397100-1433114514_thumb.jpg

post-79641-0-76397100-1433114514_thumb.jpg

post-79641-0-76397100-1433114514_thumb.jpg

Edited by Jordan18
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