Oil catch can?

[Jeff5347]

I threw a catch can on at roughly 1000 miles. Since I live in the northeast and we've had a lot of cold days Im sure there's condensation in the catch can as well. The can is roughly the size of a coke can and in just 1200 miles( I'm at 2200 total) the can was full. Same color as ^^^ Macks. Def glad I installed it early. I cringe to think of this crap getting into the intake and cylinders

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[Jordan18]

 

There's 3 different products as I remember it. One get's fed through your throttle body like seafoam but more potent and dispensed through a special tank system with a pressure gauge. Another can get's fed through your fuel system starting at the fuel tank. And I forget what the 3rd product is and how it's installed...maybe through the intake as well. I'm due for another one in about 3,000 miles I'll ask my mechanic to explain it again. There are a ton of youtube videos detailing the process as well. Here's the promo video BG put together:

 

 

I found out there's a GM dealer about 2 hours away from me that does the BG service and they promote it with all of their vehicles with DI every 18k miles (not sure about turbo engines though), which has got me interested. I am sitting at 11000 miles so I got time plus with my catch can it probably prolongs it. The say it does not harm the power train warranty. They also say that it SHOULD start to be implemented as a service requirement in the manual because of the immediate benefits and for longevity of the vehicle, mind you this is their opinion. The cost of the service could easily be made up in the mileage gains if your vehicle has been hit hard enough with coking.

 

I am still surprised by my mileage with my 6.2 even in sub zero temps and crappy winter fuel, I am still achieving 11-12L/100km (20 mpg roughly) on the highways and some mixed town driving.

Edited January 26, 2016 by Jordan18

[Jsdirt]

Yep - that time of year again:

Edited January 26, 2016 by Jsdirt

[hayes369]

I threw a catch can on at roughly 1000 miles. Since I live in the northeast and we've had a lot of cold days Im sure there's condensation in the catch can as well. The can is roughly the size of a coke can and in just 1200 miles( I'm at 2200 total) the can was full. Same color as ^^^ Macks. Def glad I installed it early. I cringe to think of this crap getting into the intake and cylinders

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Not sure have far north in the northeast you are but in the winter you will probably want to start emptying sooner. In cold temps they will easily fill up in only a few hundred miles - especially if you're taking shorter trips.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[Jeff5347]

Not sure have far north in the northeast you are but in the winter you will probably want to start emptying sooner. In cold temps they will easily fill up in only a few hundred miles - especially if you're taking shorter trips.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Massachusetts, yea that's what I was thinking. It was about 1/2 from the top. I'm sure some made it past since it was so high. Didn't think it would happened in just 1000 miles but def gonna check a whole lot more

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[GDI Tech]

A manual cleaning with removal of the intake manifold will show and then get you back to new at this stage. Just hard to do in the cold.

[1300c]

Has anyone done a comparison of condensation buildup between a can mounted above the exhaust manifold on the brake booster, and one at the spare battery location? I ran my temperature gun on those locations after a long drive at 35f ambient air temp. The truck was still running, and I popped the hood as soon as I got home and recorded the temps. The manifold was 89.5, the BB was 86.4,and the spare battery tray was 52f. That's a 34.4 degree difference. So my question is have people noticed less condensation in the winter at the brake booster location because of the hotter temperatures? I'm wondering if the spare battery tray would only be beneficial in the warmer times of the year.

[Jsdirt]

I put mine there mainly because I figure the longer the length the oil mist has to travel, the less likely it is to end up in the intake. I can deal with frequent emptying for 4 months a year. Good part about having the glass can on the Conceptual Polymer unit is being able to see when it's time to empty it. I don't drive the truck much, so I could go 2 months before dumping it.

 

Either way, I believe the condensation is a result of a cold engine block, so locating the catch can even 1" from the exhaust manifold won't make a difference, aside from maybe introducing some steam into the intake.

Edited January 26, 2016 by Jsdirt

[Daryl Z71]

I mounted my Mike Norris can on the alternator bracket on my 2011. Seemed like a good spot. That's probably where I'll put it on my 06 also.

Edited January 26, 2016 by Daryl Z71

[mjj]

Has anyone done a comparison of condensation buildup between a can mounted above the exhaust manifold on the brake booster, and one at the spare battery location? I ran my temperature gun on those locations after a long drive at 35f ambient air temp. The truck was still running, and I popped the hood as soon as I got home and recorded the temps. The manifold was 89.5, the BB was 86.4,and the spare battery tray was 52f. That's a 34.4 degree difference. So my question is have people noticed less condensation in the winter at the brake booster location because of the hotter temperatures? I'm wondering if the spare battery tray would only be beneficial in the warmer times of the year.

Mine is mounted up higher between the engine manifold and the brake booster and mine collects a ton of condensation in the winter. If the manifold location actually works it'd have to be closer than mine is. In these cold temps my can in barely warm after a 35 mine drive.

[Jsdirt]

That's probably the hottest part of the engine compartment too - up high and towards the firewall.

 

I checked mine after a long highway run towing a car to FL. Somewhere in AL in the 80's outside - underhood temps were HOT. Don't know exactly, but guessing well north of 150°, for sure. Can was ambient to the touch.

[1300c]

Mine is mounted up higher between the engine manifold and the brake booster and mine collects a ton of condensation in the winter. If the manifold location actually works it'd have to be closer than mine is. In these cold temps my can in barely warm after a 35 mine drive.

I just got home from salting some parking lots (I do snow removal) and my truck was idling for 30 minutes. At your location the temp was 131.3, at the brake booster bolt it was 142.7 and 238.4 at the manifold. At the spare battery tray it was only 2 degrees cooler than your location. The ambient air temp was 32 degrees. Thanks for your response, and picture!

Edited January 27, 2016 by 1300c

[Silverado-Hareek]

I really don't think it matters. The gases passing through the can are doing it at such a high rate that the internal temperate is likely staying relatively constant. The only difference i see is the length of time it takes the can to heat up and match the temperature of the gases.

 

With that being said mine is mounted to the break booster near the intake manifold and in this cold weather after about a 20 minute drive home, the outside of the can is still cool to the touch. In the winter I average about an ounce of oil/water every 100 miles in the cold temperatures.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GDI Tech]

On the Mike Norris can, they are not bad for a port injection engine that can tolerate oil pulling through, but will do little for a GDI engine. They let app 70% of the oil and gunk to pull right through them. And here is the Conceptual Polymer separator (a home style air compressor separator costing $200-$300 plus) with a cheap home depot separator inline behind it. You can see very few cans, not matter what the brand or the claims do much at all, but ALL will catch some:

 

 

Daryl, can you pick up one of those cheap separators and plumb it inline AFTER your Mike Norris/CCA/(and a dozen or so others that label that same can)? Then share your findings. Very eye opening to see how ineffective a can like that one is (and I used to run 2 of them in series years ago as Mike was one of the only games in town).

 

And ALWAYS check how quickly your can, no matter the brand, fills in the cold. You do not want to let them overfill or you can suck in a gulp all at once and that is not good.

 

That's why I like the Elite E2-X Ultra at 40 oz's (20 oz capacity for effectiveness) VS most at 1.5-3 oz capacity as winters fill these fast.

[Daryl Z71]

On the Mike Norris can, they are not bad for a port injection engine that can tolerate oil pulling through, but will do little for a GDI engine. They let app 70% of the oil and gunk to pull right through them. And here is the Conceptual Polymer separator (a home style air compressor separator costing $200-$300 plus) with a cheap home depot separator inline behind it. You can see very few cans, not matter what the brand or the claims do much at all, but ALL will catch some:

 

 

Daryl, can you pick up one of those cheap separators and plumb it inline AFTER your Mike Norris/CCA/(and a dozen or so others that label that same can)? Then share your findings. Very eye opening to see how ineffective a can like that one is (and I used to run 2 of them in series years ago as Mike was one of the only games in town).

I may consider it once I finally get a new unit. Looking to order one next month.

Edited January 27, 2016 by Daryl Z71