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Adding Aftermarket Sub/Amp


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Nice! I have been wanting to do this but am afraid of warranty issues should anything go out. I have been seeing others have their Mylink systems go out and know GM would blame anything like this on it.. Did you have to cut any wires? Or splice anything? Can you show pics? Thanks!

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Nice! I have been wanting to do this but am afraid of warranty issues should anything go out. I have been seeing others have their Mylink systems go out and know GM would blame anything like this on it.. Did you have to cut any wires? Or splice anything? Can you show pics? Thanks!

 

This will not hurt your mylink at all. You only have to t-tap into a pair of speaker wires to a line output converter. Two 10s under my back seat. qareqyse.jpgpunabydu.jpg

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This will not hurt your mylink at all. You only have to t-tap into a pair of speaker wires to a line output converter. Two 10s under my back seat. qareqyse.jpgpunabydu.jpg

That looks great! I am not worried about it hurting my Mylink, I was saying I have seen others having their Mylink go out, and I would just be worried if the amp, or Mylink or part of the system were to go out that GM would try to blame it on tapping into the system. Did you have to run the amp kit all the way to the battery? Where did you run all the wires? How did you get through the firewall? Thanks!

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To the poster... Do you have a crew cab or double cab? Can you post some pictures

Crew cab, I will try and get some pictures this weekend. I only taped off the one rear speaker and My amp allows line level input so no need for a line out convertor.

 

I ran my power wire down the right side, if you pop the kick up under the dash there is a grommet there where the wiring goes through there that is by far your best bet for power.

 

I did find something funny tho.... I opened the back door sill and found a rusty bolt floating around, the picture to is to big to upload right now so I will try that again

After when I'm not on my ipad.

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Power from battery terminal. Ground to back seat bolts. Remote from Bose amp on back wall.

 

Several ways to feed the rcas. One you can use the output for the Bose sub on a powered RCA converter. You can also use a direct off the rear speaker wires. One thing is that most are mono amps for the subs. The Bose noise cancelation can affect the sound if you try and use both rear speaker wires for RCA taps. It reverses the phases on one speaker and causing the amp to be out of phase and kills the sound output. Use just one side and double tap into for rcas. This will repair that issue. Or you can always unhook the nisei cancel speakers. I wouldn't do that though.

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You might check behind the rear seat and see if the non-Bose also uses a separate amp? (it might since these newer trucks don't have traditional head units).

 

If not, and it were me, I'd just tap the right rear speaker's wiring behind the B-pillar.

Edited by MotoMedic
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For non-Bose, you can tap the rear speaker wires in the B Pillar before they go thru the harness to the rear doors. They are twisted pairs.

Left Rear Speaker (+) green // (-) green/black

Right Rear Speaker (+) white // (-) blue/black

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