Adding Aftermarket Sub/Amp

trp3383 · May 2, 2017

I have a 17' double cab custom with the 7" radio. Debating going with either a Rockford Fosgate P300-10 or kicker 8" hideaway. I believe both have speaker level input and the dc auto sensing turn on so I won't have to worry about a remote wire. Would the 10" rockford fit? Also which speaker wires am I hooking up? any suggestions? Thanks

trp3383 · May 5, 2017

Here's the connector for the rear door inside the b pillar. Which wires are the speaker wires? And is it ok to use the rear speaker for the amp?

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Maxsuperdog · May 5, 2017

I used the rear door wires to tap into and it works just fine. Off hand I can't remember which color to use though. Google is your friend.

trp3383 · May 5, 2017

I used the rear door wires to tap into and it works just fine. Off hand I can't remember which color to use though. Google is your friend.

I ended up finding the twisted pair down low after removing some tape. What's the easiest way to run the power wire?

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MiamiSilverado1500 · June 9, 2017

Yea, pretty much. You will have to either make split the single channel before the PAC or use a y-cable RCA cable after the amp. I am going to split the single channel before my LOC (I am going to use and AudioControl Lc2i).

I drew a diagram of what I am talking about and posted it a few posts back.

What would you go with for a battery and alternator upgrade? Would you bother with a second battery? I'm considering replacing my 2015 battery with 55+k miles on it. I'm planning on going with 2 optima batteries, an upgraded alternator and big 3 ground kit. I want to upgrade my sound system (nothing crazy but better head unit, door speakers, maybe 1 small sub and an amp), add maybe 2 LED light bars, and a train horn with air hose for my tires.

Shu · September 5, 2017

Here is some (unverified) info I got today from a reliable source....

2014 Silverado without Bose:

ITEM WIRE COLOR LOCATION

Left Front Speaker (+/-) // blue - brown/blue // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 1 - 9

Right Front Speaker (+/-) // yellow - yellow/black // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 2 - 10

Left Rear Speaker (+/-) // green - green/black // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 3 - 11

Right Rear Speaker (+/-) // white - blue/black // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 4 - 12

I was hoping to just tap in at one of the plugs in or near the BCM, which may be possible, I just don't know. A tip that I got is to pull the B-Pillar panel (between front & rear doors), pull back or cut the tape on the wires going into the rear door to look for the speaker wires. It should be the ONLY TWISTED PAIR in the bundle. I may go this route since I don't know if there is an amp after the green 16 pin plug at the radio.

Maybe this has already been noted. When I connected into the rear speakers in the b pillar for my sub as noted above (solid colors positive and stripped negative) it sounded like crap. As soon as I changed the phase on the amp to 180 it sounded great. Prior to adding the sub, I had tried to replace the rear door speakers with some Alpines, Kenwoods, JBL's and they all sounded like crap. The stock speakers sounded much better. So, is it possible the polarity of the rear speakers is actually backward of what listed above? Some time soon I guess I'm going to put one of my aftermarket speakers back in with wiring reversed from above and see what happens.

Edited September 5, 2017 by Shu

Tone · October 29, 2017

On 6/9/2017 at 7:07 AM, MiamiSilverado1500 said:

What would you go with for a battery and alternator upgrade? Would you bother with a second battery? I'm considering replacing my 2015 battery with 55+k miles on it. I'm planning on going with 2 optima batteries, an upgraded alternator and big 3 ground kit. I want to upgrade my sound system (nothing crazy but better head unit, door speakers, maybe 1 small sub and an amp), add maybe 2 LED light bars, and a train horn with air hose for my tires.

IMO (35 years doing higher end car audio) you won't need an alternator or an extra battery if you're only adding a small (or for that matter even a medium or large amp). If you plan to add an extra large amp or amps (say totaling 1000 true watts RMS) then you would be best off just adding a second battery and big 3, and forget about the alternator upgrade. I always add the big 3 too, and run heavy gauge power and ground wires. With one battery, if your dash lights dim a lot when pushing your sub(s) hard then you'll likely need to add the second battery to remedy the situation.

squeak93 · December 11, 2017

Help. 2015 crew cab Bose w/o sub. Looking to tap the front speakers for my lc2i. I pulled the screen to get to the wires and I have no wires in the left side plug. (Green plug). Should I be looking elsewhere or just scrap this fun nightmare of a project.

squeak93 · December 11, 2017

FWIW I answered my own question I think. Seems my wires are coming off of the amp. I was under the impression based upon the YouTube vids and all the post that you had to tap behind the dash. I’m going to tap off my amp for the front speakers (validated already) to see if it power my loc.

cbrsilv15 · December 11, 2017

Yup. Bose system, tap into amp wires on the rear wall. Non bose, tap into wires behind screen.

squeak93 · December 11, 2017

Yep I'm an idiot lol. Could have saved myself a ton of time taking stuff apart and running wires etc.

all is well. Sub hits and nothing shuts off unexpectedly.

I swear I never read any threads that said to tap at the amp regardless of if you have a sub or not. Lots of threads that referred to the wire colors etc.

Rebel619 · December 11, 2017

Bumping this post, I've seen people ask this questions a couple times on this post but never got answered. Has anyone ran they're remote off the 12v that's supplying the bose Amp? If so what color is the 12v wire to the bose Amp? Trying to avoid running the remote from under console.

I have the bose system with sub...

Btw thanks for all the info on this thread.

squeak93 · December 11, 2017

If you use an lc2i it'll turn itself on by just the speaker inputs. Then you can use it to run a remote to your amp.

Otherwise I would recommend probing with a multimeter

Rebel619 · December 12, 2017

9 hours ago, squeak93 said:

If you use an lc2i it'll turn itself on by just the speaker inputs. Then you can use it to run a remote to your amp.

Otherwise I would recommend probing with a multimeter

Yeah that would be my next option since I saw a video on YouTube using the lc2i. I would like to remote off of the power supply to the bose amp and only have to worry about running one wire for the amp if possible, that way both amps are shut off with the key. My company does christmas shut down in two weeks and would like to take advantage and install a little sub then. Would anyone have a diagram for the bose amp with sub? I've searched online for a couple of days with no luck. Thanks