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Adding Aftermarket Sub/Amp


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Just got back from dealer, talked with service manager and parts I was given the following info. Non Bose trucks do not have a dedicated amp. The wiring harness for Bose/ GM radio are different, There are two different head units listed for the truck(parts man was not sure if Bose/GM or nav/ non nav) Since pictures were black and white could not tell location of green plug, could be on the back of radio or on HMI module(human machine interface) which is located behind the glove box. Also wiring to speakers is different for Bose/ GM systems. I hope this helps.

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  • 3 weeks later...

This is an awesome thread. while the bose system sounds pretty good stock, there really isnt much bass.

I have been wondering how I would be going about adding an amp to my bose double cab system. I havent looked at anything in the truck yet, but I'm assuming crew cabs and double cabs would be wired the same.

 

tapping into the bose amp on the back all for sub signal sounds easy enough. Now I gotta get a rca adapter, an amp, sub and box and im set!

Edited by fondupot
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This is an awesome thread. while the bose system sounds pretty good stock, there really isnt much bass.

I have been wondering how I would be going about adding an amp to my bose double cab system. I havent looked at anything in the truck yet, but I'm assuming crew cabs and double cabs would be wired the same.

 

tapping into the bose amp on the back all for sub signal sounds easy enough. Now I gotta get a rca adapter, an amp, sub and box and im set!

 

Don't want to steer anyone the wrong way here, but it might be worth looking at the Kicker amplified sub box for the Silverado/Sierra: http://www.kicker.com/soundgate If you haven't heard this system, it's really pretty impressive. It's also kinda spendy (~$700 on Crutchfield - PM me if you're interested for an idea of what we can do for $$$ - we sell the "Factory Fit" version that has the 3 yr. vs. 1 yr. warranty, but I can't publish price).

 

With this system, you get a known result, rather than having to experiment and buy a bunch of stuff that may not work well together, plus it has all the brackets and connectors to allow it to be pretty much "plug and play".

 

It's also what GM sells for the same rig: http://www.gmaccessorieszone.com/Chevrolet/en-US/Silverado/2014/Accessories/Electronics/Audio/

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Don't want to steer anyone the wrong way here, but it might be worth looking at the Kicker amplified sub box for the Silverado/Sierra: http://www.kicker.com/soundgate If you haven't heard this system, it's really pretty impressive. It's also kinda spendy (~$700 on Crutchfield - PM me if you're interested for an idea of what we can do for $$$ - we sell the "Factory Fit" version that has the 3 yr. vs. 1 yr. warranty, but I can't publish price).

 

With this system, you get a known result, rather than having to experiment and buy a bunch of stuff that may not work well together, plus it has all the brackets and connectors to allow it to be pretty much "plug and play".

 

It's also what GM sells for the same rig: http://www.gmaccessorieszone.com/Chevrolet/en-US/Silverado/2014/Accessories/Electronics/Audio/

Am I missing something? Both links either flat out exclude (GM Site) Bose systems or do not list them(Kicker). Is this product compatible with Bose or not?

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Am I missing something? Both links either flat out exclude (GM Site) Bose systems or do not list them(Kicker). Is this product compatible with Bose or not?

 

Although Kicker doesn't list the Bose system as an application (since you already have a sub, why would you need another one, right?), if you are considering eliminating the factory sub, or wanting more bass than it's capable of providing, this system is pretty basic to add, since all it requires is a high level input (tap + & - leads from one of the speaker outputs from the amp), power and ground. In this case, yes, it is compatible with a Bose system, and will add a ton of bass to the system (and honestly, probably too much if you keep the factory sub).

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  • 1 month later...

How/where do you guys run your amps power from the battery? Awesome Thread BTW!

 

I ran mine off battery, down exterior firewall, along the frame under the truck, then drilled a hole through floor behind the rear seats, and ran power wire through rubber grommet.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I just ran the wiring for my sub/amp to test the signal etc.. Had my old kicker L7's to test it out. Here's a couple pics of what I did. Thanks Moto for speeding up the process for me. The signal and wiring was clean and easy. I soldered all connections and to my ears there's no distortion. I never did drill, I found some air vents behind the back seat on the passenger side so I just fished 'er through..

 

signal

power

wiringnsubs

 

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So I just ran the wiring for my sub/amp to test the signal etc.. Had my old kicker L7's to test it out. Here's a couple pics of what I did. Thanks Moto for speeding up the process for me. The signal and wiring was clean and easy. I soldered all connections and to my ears there's no distortion. I never did drill, I found some air vents behind the back seat on the passenger side so I just fished 'er through.

 

With regards to the wires through vent, did you pass them in upward direction from outside, so the make an arch before turning down to floor? or is the arch on the outside, with the wires running in a downward direction from outside to in?

 

I ask b/c if you did the latter, water will ride down the cables through vent to your interior. If the wire is still running up as it passes through vent and then turns down, any water on the cable will travel down the outside portion and drip harmlessly on the ground.

 

See my very fancy drawing attached. ha

post-34923-0-67858200-1390852364_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-67858200-1390852364_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-67858200-1390852364_thumb.jpg

post-34923-0-67858200-1390852364_thumb.jpg

Edited by MotoMedic
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With regards to the wires through vent, did you pass them in upward direction from outside, so the make an arch before turning down to floor? or is the arch on the outside, with the wires running in a downward direction from outside to in?

 

I ask b/c if you did the latter, water will ride down the cables through vent to your interior. If the wire is still running up as it passes through vent and then turns down, any water on the cable will travel down the outside portion and drip harmlessly on the ground.

 

See my very fancy drawing attached. ha

 

I used 0 gauge wire so making that sharp bend before coming into the cab of the truck wasn't even possible! Good point though that needs to be thought through. I slightly modified your masterpiece with the snipping tool to show that there are little flaps on the vents to help with weather too. I do still need to make sure everything is in check with that..

ha,ha

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