Adding Aftermarket Sub/Amp

crewl1 · December 17, 2015

When you get this installed do you mind giving a little insight or review on the hookup and your thoughts. That is the box I'm interested in and curious on its performance. Man, I hope it works awesome for you! Let us know how it fits under the seat and install time. Def looking forward to hearing more

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Sure thing. Hopefully I can work on it this weekend if it arrives by then.

Jeff5347 · December 17, 2015

Sure thing. Hopefully I can work on it this weekend if it arrives by then.

It looks like a fairly simple install. Run a ground to the floor and power with fuse straight to the battery. Find the front speaker wires and splice in and wa la. The box is signal sensing so once it recognizes a voltage change from the speaker wires it powers on. No need for a remote. Thinking this nay be a hour or so job for a much needed bass improvement.

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crewl1 · December 17, 2015

I think the toughest part will be running the power cables since I want to try to go through the passenger side firewall.

And since I have the Bose system I am going to pick up the speaker cable from rear amp, so I may have to remove the back seats.

I like to take my time with these things.

Edited December 17, 2015 by crewl1

Jeff5347 · December 17, 2015

Didn't know there was a spot to run thru on the pass side. Wonder if having a Bose vs non if there is a diif in install. I've installed many audio components in all my other vehicles. Can't wait for some more boom..

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crewl1 · December 18, 2015

Recieved the sub last night and build quality looks and feels awesome.

It is heavier than I expected, and the JL Audio logo is embroidered in the carpet, not silkscreened as I figured.

I did a fit test and it is perfect, the edges line up just inside the small back seat of the crew.

I will start working on the rear Bose amp speaker wire source while I wait for my 8 gauge power wiring kit to show up.

I'm going to try to do it without removing the rear seats but it may be difficult that way.

I'm also going to test out some bass blockers I ordered for the front doors to keep those speakers from shaking now that the sub will be doing the work.

GMC-AT · December 18, 2015

for those that have a double cab - - http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/180683-2014-2016-double-cab-subwoofer-box-amp/

Jeff5347 · December 18, 2015

Recieved the sub last night and build quality looks and feels awesome.

It is heavier than I expected, and the JL Audio logo is embroidered in the carpet, not silkscreened as I figured.

I did a fit test and it is perfect, the edges line up just inside the small back seat of the crew.

I will start working on the rear Bose amp speaker wire source while I wait for my 8 gauge power wiring kit to show up.

I'm going to try to do it without removing the rear seats but it may be difficult that way.

I'm also going to test out some bass blockers I ordered for the front doors to keep those speakers from shaking now that the sub will be doing the work.

She looks pretty. Is the seat pushed down all the way. So it fits nice and easy not crammed in there? Can't wait to hear your impressions of the sound quality and bass....

Oh what speaker are you tapping into? The front right channel?

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Edited December 18, 2015 by Jeff5347

crewl1 · December 18, 2015

Yes the seat is down all the way.

It looks like it is blocked at the rear of the sub but I was just pushing it as far back as it would go.

I am going to have to take the seat out for easier access to the Bose Amp wiring.

If yours does not have the Bose then it should be easier as you can just pick up the speaker wires from the front drivers side harness.

Will update once the install is done.

Jeff5347 · December 18, 2015

My curiosity is regarding the chimes. I know there is a low pass filter in the sub So it may filter out the chime but wondering if it will still be audible. Can't remember if the pass side is chimed or not

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GRN69CHV · December 18, 2015

My curiosity is regarding the chimes. I know there is a low pass filter in the sub So it may filter out the chime but wondering if it will still be audible. Can't remember if the pass side is chimed or not

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Passenger side does not get the chime or turn signal click, these wonderful sounds are reserved for the driver side front door and dash.

crewl1 · December 19, 2015

If loud chimes are a problem there are two things you can do to address.

The chime volume is linked to the voice control volume, so with the truck on, press the voice button on the steering wheel then lower the volume on the radio. It will say 'voice volume' and will let you only drop the voulme a little below half way.

Next, use the audio/menu/tone setting to move the balance back a couple of clicks.

The dash twiddlers are obnoxiously loud and some signal needs to be taken away from them via the balance.

Edited December 19, 2015 by crewl1

crewl1 · December 19, 2015

She looks pretty. Is the seat pushed down all the way. So it fits nice and easy not crammed in there? Can't wait to hear your impressions of the sound quality and bass....

Oh what speaker are you tapping into? The front right channel?

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Oh my gosh this thing sounds amazing.

I've got it set less than halfway and the bass is pumping and it isnt even trying!

NIght and day from the factory bose sub.

A couple of things I did as part of my install are the following:

I installed some Scorpion bass blockers # BB468 on the front speakers to take out the lowest notes from them. (I estimate the rolloff is about 100Hz since these blockers are rated at 85hz @ 4ohms.)

This because I always found it annoying to feel all that door shaking and did not like hearing bass coming from up front.

When I did this I could finally hear the console sub working, and believe me that little 5.75 inch guy is not up to the job.

By taking the bass out of the doors the sound was much more balanced, but it did not have the bass energy that the 6x9s in the doors added. I can see now why they decided to pump all that bass through the doors, as the console sub is not enough for the truck.

I used the front door speakers as high level source for the the JL Audio Sub which I wired for power and ground only, without a remote turn on. With the DC setting the signal from the speakers turns on the sub amp fine.

The results are absolutely spectacular. The sound is just what I want now with decent mids and highs up front and bass coming from all around and you can feel it, not just hear it. I definitely recommend this unit.

Here is the reference info on the rightmost wire harness from the bose amp.

Next I will be routing the RBC-1 (their remote sub volume) control to the console, still need to figure out where I want it.

Also I plan to add a steel strap of some sort to the underside of the sub box that I can bolt to one of the seat bolts. In case the truck ever gets broken into I dont want to leave it easy for someone to pull out the sub.

Edited December 19, 2015 by crewl1

Jeff5347 · December 20, 2015

Awesome. Nice to hear it pounds. Are you happy w sealed? I can't/ couldn't decide between the ported or sealed version. I have 4 pioneers going in for the doors which I will soon be getting a 4 CH for. Leaving the dash speakers alone for now anyway. I think that sub, the pioneers amped all to the factory radio non Bose will be a 1000 pt upgrade. So happy you say the sub pounds. Just for reference what music do you listen to. Mine is country, classic rock, metal. Really anything but country and rock is the top 2

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crewl1 · December 20, 2015

For my listening tastes the sealed sub is my preference.

jazz, Latin, r&b, edm, some top 40, a little country, classic rock, pretty much everything.

If I was into hip hop more probably a ported box would be better but I don't miss it.

I think the ported version box is larger so make sure it will fit where you want it to.

crewl1 · December 21, 2015

I decided to take the easy route and just put the remote on the back of the console.

And finally for a little added security I added some metal straps with security screws and bolted them to the seat bolts to hopefully thwart any smash and grab attempts.

Edited December 21, 2015 by crewl1