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Adding Aftermarket Sub/Amp


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How do you raise the seat..... thats exactly what i was asking about. How much did you raise it?

I think it was 5/8" raised. FoxAcoustics sells a "lift kit" for the rear seat which is just some cheap particle board blocks that they cut out to sit between the seat frame and the body. It works well though. I just recommend undoing all the bolts before placing any. But you don't have to remove he seats

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yeah... mine are also downfiring... i have two rockford 10's with a mb quart mono channel amp.... something is off. sounds terrible

 

Wired up ok? I've seen dual set ups where one sub is fighting the other if the box and wiring are wrong.

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Wired up ok? I've seen dual set ups where one sub is fighting the other if the box and wiring are wrong.

i think its done correct....ill have to verify. i thought the sub may have been too close to the floor

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Who did your install? I would like to add some bass to mine

My sub is a single 12 inch Alpine. The box is from my 2013 Sierra, so it does not fit exactly right. I had it in my '14 SLT and now in mt Denali. It's only slightly off, but its' carpet is gray not black.

 

I do have a great installer...Pro Audio on N. Lamar

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Are you guys adding dynamat or something similar to your trucks or just throwing woofers in them?

Funny you should ask that. I am in the process of adding about 50 lbs worth (maybe more) of Stinger Roadkill. When I closer to finishing the install (Novermber-ish) I will start posting pics.

 

I have noticed that the center hump between the back seats is extremely thin metal, I can pop it in an and out like an old pop can.

 

I think most people just throw in boxes, not realizing they can really improve response by adding sound deadening material....the trade-off is expense, time, and weight.

Edited by Strykers_Inc
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Funny you should ask that. I am in the process of adding about 50 lbs worth (maybe more) of Stinger Roadkill. When I closer to finishing the install (Novermber-ish) I will start posting pics.

I have noticed that the center hump between the back seats is extremely thin metal, I can pop it in an and out like an old pop can.

I think most people just throw in boxes, not realizing they can really improve response by adding sound deadening material....the trade-off is expense, time, and weight.

I'm getting ready to put a JL TW5 in my truck. I might just go ahead and do some sound deadening before I install it. I know exactly which part of the floor board you're talking about and it makes noise you put some pressure to it
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I'm getting ready to put a JL TW5 in my truck. I might just go ahead and do some sound deadening before I install it. I know exactly which part of the floor board you're talking about and it makes noise you put some pressure to it

Yep, pops in and out, I put down a layer covering the entire back floor edge to edge of Stinger Overkill RKX36B, then a layer of Overkill RKO12 Mat on the floor. Only did RKX36B from the center down on the back wall. The doors will be done as we go.

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  • 4 weeks later...

well I just got a 2014 Silverado double cab touch screen non bose system.. I did find the cheese mesh cover on the back of the cab im guessing its all the same?

 

im wanting to install an amp and sub jl audio equipment I was talking to crutchfield they just told me to get a line output convertor... ?? something like the scosche loc90..

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well I just got a 2014 Silverado double cab touch screen non bose system.. I did find the cheese mesh cover on the back of the cab im guessing its all the same?

 

im wanting to install an amp and sub jl audio equipment I was talking to crutchfield they just told me to get a line output convertor... ?? something like the scosche loc90..

 

 

Yep, for basic connections a simple LOC will work.

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  • 1 month later...

This was fairly easy to install. The under seat storage box is the one you can get from the gmc oem parts catalog. I mounted the sub with two traps and four screws. The kicker kit comes with a cut out template to show you where to screw the four mounting screws. I tapped into the passenger side rear speaker wire and ran bass boost knob to the driver side center console storage slot so I can adjust the bass level on the fly. The power wire I ran along the passenger side and into the engine bay by drilling a hole on the passenger side foot well. Others have taken a close hanger poke threw the existing rubber grummit. I looked at doing this but between my big hands and lack of a clear view of what I was doing under there I decided to drill my own hole. I terminated the power on the power block above the battery. All the wiring was just long enough without having to add any length to the kits wire.

Where did you pick up the remote turn-on(blue wire)?

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man so many idea's but everyone in this thread has bose lol i had a DD flat 10 for about 9 years in my old truck it was perfect and took a beating im gonna need to go a similar route this time as i want to go as low threat as possible, slim, small stealth as i can, but i need more bang from the stereo

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For a non-audio guy, could someone give me some ideas on a simple way to upgrade the Bose system in my ALL-Terrain. I'd like to have better door speakers up front and rear and possibly add a sub that didn't take up the entire back seat. I understand cost is in a wide range. I'd like to stay right the middle, don't need the best of the best but don't want junk either. Thanks in advance. I have read through most of this thread and its like Japanese to me lol

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