Adding Aftermarket Sub/Amp

austingta · December 19, 2014

I am building a similar set up. Focal components up front and coax in the back. A JL 12TW3 sub powered by a JL 900/5 amp.

Did you take the input to the bose amp and connect to your LC6 or the output of the amp? Does taking from the input mean no chimes and no 3" speakers on the dash?

I have read both options.

The factory sub was left connected to the Bose amp

The factory sub is still in place and still being powered by the factory Bose amp. I did lose all my chimes. The best way around that is to install a small speaker hidden up under the dash which you would connect to the output of the LF channel wires on the Bose amp. The Focal tweeters replaced the dash speakers; that way I don't have anything showing. The Focal mid fits nicely in the door.

Good luck!

TexasDevilDog · December 19, 2014

The factory sub was left connected to the Bose amp

The factory sub is still in place and still being powered by the factory Bose amp. I did lose all my chimes. The best way around that is to install a small speaker hidden up under the dash which you would connect to the output of the LF channel wires on the Bose amp. The Focal tweeters replaced the dash speakers; that way I don't have anything showing. The Focal mid fits nicely in the door.

Good luck!

Thank you.

Do you think splicing from the outputs and making them the inputs to the LC6 and leaving the dash speakers connected would keep the chimes?

Leaving the stock sub and dash speakers running off the bose amp.

austingta · December 19, 2014

Thank you.

Do you think splicing from the outputs and making them the inputs to the LC6 and leaving the dash speakers connected would keep the chimes?

Leaving the stock sub and dash speakers running off the bose amp.

I think the chimes come from the LF door speaker. I did this in my 2013 and the chimes, once amplified, were a little too loud.

Where are you going to mount your focal tweeters?

TexasDevilDog · December 19, 2014

I think the chimes come from the LF door speaker. I did this in my 2013 and the chimes, once amplified, were a little too loud.

Where are you going to mount your focal tweeters?

I haven't decided if I would create a bracket and keep it next to the 6.5" speaker or if I would put them in the pillar. It just depends on how they sound. I am going with the new Focal PS 165FX components. I had K2s in my Z for a long time but don't want to drop that kind of money(1$K) on a set of components again.

TexasDevilDog · December 19, 2014

I think the chimes come from the LF door speaker.

I just went outside to verify, I never paid attention before. It is coming from the driver's side dash speaker.

austingta · December 19, 2014

I just went outside to verify, I never paid attention before. It is coming from the driver's side dash speaker.

Good to know...thanks.

Tea3gue · January 6, 2015

Just curious as to what yahl think on this subject, tap the rear door speakers or tap in behind the radio?

No Tyme · January 6, 2015

Just curious as to what yahl think on this subject, tap the rear door speakers or tap in behind the radio?

I taped into the rear door speakers. I soldered the connections and sealed twice with shrink tubing...

Tea3gue · January 16, 2015

Where did you ground the ground wire. I think I'm having problems with mine bc of poor ground

No Tyme · January 17, 2015

Where did you ground the ground wire. I think I'm having problems with mine bc of poor ground

Right at the rear seat bolts. Just added another nut the same size thread and tighten down. Ground wire was soldered to a ring terminal. I did have an issue with the power wire that I received from Crutchfield. The fuse connector was just 2 slide connectors in a rubber housing and the fuse was a bit tricky to get it to seat into both of the slide connectors.

Dozier · February 4, 2015

Just wanted to say that I bought a PAC LP72...Found here..

http://www.carid.com/pac-audio/l-o-c-pro-l7-2-channel-line-output-converter-mpn-lp72.html?gclid=CjwKEAiAo8emBRCX_OqU4qek6y8SJACzgf8fcX3jxuzZG3eRsJJGhhflU5eDcEX4ebcsqWwTTDXQ1hoCmgXw_wcB

I wired that up instead of dealing with the BS of trying to find a switched 12 volt source. It creates it's own 12v switched source. GENIUS. The only wires I had to tap into were the driver's side rear speaker for the signal to the Low level converter. Done. Easy peasy....Folks...Save yourself the headache.

Also placed it to the left of the steering wheel...Here

Edited February 4, 2015 by Dozier

GMC-AT · February 4, 2015

another idea .. stealth..

SeanTX · March 10, 2015

...more...

@MotoMedic - Thanks for the write up and pics, very helpful. In my last car (G8GT) I connected my Line Level Converter right at the AMP which was in the rear of the car and made the whole install a breeze. I would think it would make sense to just not even mess with the console now that we know the AMP is located on the wall, correct? Wanted to be sure I'm not missing something before I dig into mine and thanks again, VERY helpful!

502ss · March 23, 2015

Planning a sub/amp upgrade! This thread was a huge help!!

Thanks!!

d.p · March 25, 2015

Can anyone post pics of the area behind the seats in a double cab? Trying to see if my amp will fit back there or are there other spots people are stealth hiding them?

Running 2x DD510 in a sealed probox with a DD M.80

KnuKonceptz True 4awg Kit...

Power from OE dist block, 80amp inline, rand with remote along the driver side.

HI/Low tapped with green plug mounted behind 8in factory H/U. RCA's ran along the passenger side.