2014+ Leveling Kits

RobinhoodNC · April 6, 2020

I'm amazed how ridiculous is the stock front suspension downtravel on these trucks. I initially measured for reference exactly 1,5" when I had the 3" front spacers installed with RC forged UCAs, difference from hub to fender. This was without the bumpstop rubber, UCA was resting on the chassis. I thought that the quite poor ride quality was due to that.

So I decided to lower the truck to get a bit more downtravel, to 2.25" (readylift). And to my surprise I didn't get that 3/4 inch back in downtravel... No...only a mere 1/5" more ! And the UCA wasn't even touching the bumpstop ! Strut was simply bottomed out...So my 2.4t 20feet long 4x4 truck has hardly 2,4" of downtravel on its front struts. Lol. Even my business car Kia Sportage has more wheel travel...This is maybe explained by the so stiff springs they have. They hardly compress when jacking down. Then I did put back the rubber bumpstops but these are only slightly in contact with the UCAs. So with a 2 inch level kit on stock UCA I guess that full downtravel is still almost here, that's why ride quality isn't too much impacted.

Know I just need to find longer/smoother springs...but impossible to find the spring rate on mine.

ZX14R BUSA KILLER · April 8, 2020

I went with a Rough Country 3" lift leveling kit. 20" KMC DemoDog Wheels with -18 Offset, and with 33" Offroad Tires.

Edited April 8, 2020 by ZX14R BUSA KILLER

Riddick1224 · April 14, 2020

I’m looking to lower the back of my 2016 to level the truck out. Any suggestions?

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mcdavis · April 16, 2020

On 4/13/2020 at 10:36 PM, Riddick1224 said:

I’m looking to lower the back of my 2016 to level the truck out. Any suggestions?

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I've read that you can just remove the blocks from the leaf springs and it'll drop the rear about 1 1/2". Google it, lots of info on it. Doesn't make it perfectly level, but makes it look much better from what I've seen.

Bensjamming · April 18, 2020

Why does it matter with the RC 2' spacers if you install the bolts from the top down or if you have the nuts on the top of the strut since neither the head or not come into contact with the spacer itself?

mikeyk101 · April 18, 2020

38 minutes ago, Bensjamming said:

Why does it matter with the RC 2' spacers if you install the bolts from the top down or if you have the nuts on the top of the strut since neither the head or not come into contact with the spacer itself?

The one thing I see with doing the bolts from the top down is that changing out the struts when its needed wont be too easy. From bottom up, it is a much simpler job. However. The bolts used are too long and would cause interference. Some have solved this by cutting down the bolts. But with that being said, I did follow the Rough Country installation directions and installed them from the top down. Hopefully it wont be for awhile but dreading the time when the struts need to be changed out...

Edited April 18, 2020 by mikeyk101

Bensjamming · April 18, 2020

2 hours ago, mikeyk101 said:

The one thing I see with doing the bolts from the top down is that changing out the struts when its needed wont be too easy. From bottom up, it is a much simpler job. However. The bolts used are too long and would cause interference. Some have solved this by cutting down the bolts. But with that being said, I did follow the Rough Country installation directions and installed them from the top down. Hopefully it wont be for awhile but dreading the time when the struts need to be changed out...

I was thinking the same thing. Is the interference with the cv axle then I take it? If so I might just measure the thickness of the stock configuration from bolt head to end of stock bolt and then just add the thickness of the spacer and cut the bolts right away. Just seemed like alot more work then needed when they could be put in the other way.

mikeyk101 · April 19, 2020

Yes, it is the CV joints that get in the way. If I had a way to properly cut the bolts down, I would have gone that way myself. I guess I could have just run out to the Menards or Home Depot and got the right sized bolts but at the time, part of the front end was in pieces so I had no way to get there, LOL!

Bensjamming · April 19, 2020

I ended up just taking it all apart and doing it the right way. Start to finish it took me about 45 minutes to do both sides by myself this morning. Was way easier then I thought it was going to be.

superdave160 · April 19, 2020

I installed the Rough Country spacers on my 2017 Silverado 1500 this weekend. I could not get the upper ball joint to separate. I didn't want to use a fork and damage the ball joint or the boot. The tie rod ends popped right out though. Since the ball joints would not separate, I couldn't get one of the strut bolts to go in from the top because the axle shaft was in the way. I put the bolt in from the bottom and noted that there was very little clearance between the end of the bolt and the axle shaft. I ended up adding some washers to the head of the bolt to increase the clearance. That gave me enough clearance and still had enough thread penetration for the lock nut to work. I measured at the front fenders through the center line of the wheels, and they went from 36 1/4 to 38 inches from the ground.

jgraves13 · April 19, 2020

I installed the Rough Country spacers on my 2017 Silverado 1500 this weekend. I could not get the upper ball joint to separate. I didn't want to use a fork and damage the ball joint or the boot. The tie rod ends popped right out though. Since the ball joints would not separate, I couldn't get one of the strut bolts to go in from the top because the axle shaft was in the way. I put the bolt in from the bottom and noted that there was very little clearance between the end of the bolt and the axle shaft. I ended up adding some washers to the head of the bolt to increase the clearance. That gave me enough clearance and still had enough thread penetration for the lock nut to work. I measured at the front fenders through the center line of the wheels, and they went from 36 1/4 to 38 inches from the ground.

If you ever need to get the ball joint separated, just hit the spindle with a hammer until it jiggles itself loose

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superdave160 · April 19, 2020

19 minutes ago, jgraves13 said:

If you ever need to get the ball joint separated, just hit the spindle with a hammer until it jiggles itself loose

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Trust me, I hit it with a hammer!

Pig Sooie 4 · May 11, 2020

Hey guys! I am new to the board but i bet i have read most of the 496 pages on this topic. I am interested in the 2.5 Rough Country lift kit and was wondering everyones thoughts? I have always had the 2 inch rough country kit on my previous trucks but was interested in this kit due to the rear block. I have 295/55/20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers on this truck now. I received a quote from the dealership i purchased the truck from and the kit plus the labor was quoted at $1200. I thought that was extremely high given the kit is $450. I was wondering what everyones thoughts were on the kit and also the price i was given. Any help is appreciated!

acinquegrana · May 15, 2020

Finally bit the bullet and got wheelsand tires. My 2016 Silverado 1500 Rally 2LT with ready lift 2.25 and UCA and Zone add leafs.

I went with 2019 GMC Sierra SLT replica wheels in gloss black and LT275 65 R20 Duratracs. Upgrading from 285 45 22 bridgestone duellers. What a difference. You would never know these are a 10 ply tire. Great ride.

To prevent UCA rub, I fabricated some steering stops and tack welded them to the lower control arm. I made them over size and then ground them down to a perfect fit. Lost 6 degrees of turning radius as indicated on the dash, but i dont care about that. I rarely max out my steering. I did this so I didnt have to run a wheel spacer. Trimmed the corner of my mud flaps too. No rubbing at all

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