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2014+ Leveling Kits


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King coilover replacements with deaver rear mini pack and removal of the 1” block running 285/70/17 Falkens

Second picture is with 315/70/17 BFG’s same lift, with trimming. It rubs, but I have a Baja kits upper and lower kit coming next week to solve that problem.
39bbd4440f45c3ac2e3a5b448a71cfe6.jpgfa3efac63277d605c3bfde9d2fb18e19.jpg


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Got anymore pictures? Truck looks good and I'm curious what it looks like with the 285/70


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7 hours ago, jgraves13 said:

 


What's the metric size on the tires? Toyo doesn't make a 32x11 to my knowledge. Are they 275/60?


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When I bought them from custom offsets it was technically 31.9x10.8, I don’t know the metric size off of the top of my head. 

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Hey guys,

Just picked up a 2018 1500, and looking to level the front a bit, like 1.5" to 2" tops

From what I've read so far, it sounds like with the newer models, you should be replacing the uca, regardless of what leveling kit you go with. 

This true even with a slight level like a 1.5"?

I'm keeping the stock 20" wheels and tires - at least for now lol -

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On 8/18/2018 at 11:21 AM, LoweredKlass said:

Hey guys,

Just picked up a 2018 1500, and looking to level the front a bit, like 1.5" to 2" tops

From what I've read so far, it sounds like with the newer models, you should be replacing the uca, regardless of what leveling kit you go with. 

This true even with a slight level like a 1.5"?

I'm keeping the stock 20" wheels and tires - at least for now lol -

You'd want to check with the manufacturer of the UCA kit... Most I have looked at require a wheel with more offset, or spacers.

 

I have stamped steel control arms, and I ended up pulling my 2" MotoFab kit because I got wheel rub on the UCA at lock, and unfortunately there are situations in my daily driving life where I end up hitting wheel lock, I didn't want to destroy the back of my wheels or front edge of my UCA.

 

I ended up trading in my original 2017 Sierra Elevation for a 17 Sierra SLE Z71, still had stamped control arms. I plan on waiting to do any lifting at all until I acquire a UCA kit and new wheels. YMMV of course, but I don't know if you'll get what you want without a new wheel kit if you go with an aftermarket UCA kit.

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On ‎8‎/‎18‎/‎2018 at 8:21 AM, LoweredKlass said:

Hey guys,

Just picked up a 2018 1500, and looking to level the front a bit, like 1.5" to 2" tops

From what I've read so far, it sounds like with the newer models, you should be replacing the uca, regardless of what leveling kit you go with. 

This true even with a slight level like a 1.5"?

I'm keeping the stock 20" wheels and tires - at least for now lol -

If you are certain you only want 1.5 to 2 inches of lift, then you could go with the Bilstein 5100 struts which do not require any UCA change and actually work within the existing front suspension geometry better than any other solution I know of for staying as close to "stock" as possible and minimizing chances of voiding your factory warranties related to the suspension.  Spacers and new UCAs are well know to GM and they are cracking down on them a bit as mentioned in one of their "KB" bulletins (EDIT:  not "KB" bulletins , meant to say "TSB" and "PIT" bulletins).  The 5100 struts on your model truck will give from 1.5 to 2 inches of lift (they advertise "up to 1.85" inches).  I got 1.5 inches with mine set on the highest level (they have different height adjustments).  Others are getting 2 inches of lift but all are getting between 1.5 and 2 inches like you want.  Further, the 5100s solve the problem of driving off-road and taking dips/speedbumps way better than the stock shocks.   If you do the struts in the front, I would also do the rear 5100 shocks, which is what I did, and love them compared to stock.  I did mine at 4WheelParts (total cost about $750 for everything installed and the final wheel alignment.

Edited by TNAZ
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If you are certain you only want 1.5 to 2 inches of lift, then you could go with the Bilstein 5100 struts which do not require any UCA change and actually work within the existing front suspension geometry better than any other solution I know of for staying as close to "stock" as possible and minimizing chances of voiding your factory warranties related to the suspension.  Spacers and new UCAs are well know to GM and they are cracking down on them a bit as mentioned in one of their "KB" bulletins.  The 5100 struts on your model truck will give from 1.5 to 2 inches of lift (they advertise "up to 1.85" inches).  I got 1.5 inches with mine set on the highest level (they have different height adjustments).  Others are getting 2 inches of lift but all are getting between 1.5 and 2 inches like you want.  Further, the 5100s solve the problem of driving off-road and taking dips/speedbumps way better than the stock shocks.   If you do the struts in the front, I would also do the rear 5100 shocks, which is what I did, and love them compared to stock.  I did mine at 4WheelParts (total cost about $750 for everything installed and the final wheel alignment.


Do you have a link to the kb bulletin? And are you saying the bilsteins wouldn't fall under the crack down?


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1 hour ago, jgraves13 said:

 


Do you have a link to the kb bulletin? And are you saying the bilsteins wouldn't fall under the crack down?


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Sorry, I meant to say "PIT" and "TSB", not "KB" (KB is for Microsoft Windows issues).  Anyway, it is "PIT5403B" and "TSB 09-00-89-016E".  The PIT has the real specifics.  I am a factory warranty nut and always have been because dealer work is so costly and parts these days are insane.  However, I really wanted to do some "light" modifications to make the truck more usable and better looking.  I think that technically, even the Bilstein strut would void the suspension warranty in the front if a dealer wanted a way out--this includes bigger tires too and rims with non-factory offsets (I put 33" on versus the 31.5 inch stock tires).  It probably depends on the dealer and the issue--I just don't know the enforcement frequency.  I have not been challenged yet but my thought is that I won't be having issues with the front suspension because if the Bilstein sales pitch is true, I won't be stressing suspension parts like ball joints because it works within the same exact stock spring and does not in anyway overextend the stock suspension (does preload the spring though)--this was the only product I was willing to take the calculated risk on and I saved the original struts just in case.  An even safer play would be to get a GM dealer aftermarket department to put these on--especially the dealer you bought the truck from if possible.  If you go back to the same dealer for work I think they would be more lenient and I suspect that is how most guys are doing this to be super safe or maybe it is rarely enforced.  An even safer play is to get the dealer to add the parts during the new truck purchase--that is my plan for future trucks.  

 

 

 

PIT.PNG

TSB.PNG

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I have a '14 I'm using a rc 2" front level and it sits dead nuts level at 38 1/2" front and rear. I'm looking to do the zone add a leaf in the rear to help with sag and give me some rake back. Anyone running this set up give some insight to how much higher the rear will sit and maybe post a few photos?? Thanks in advance pic is my leveled truck with about 1800lbs in the bed. ac45bdb3c0f8ba3e9c7ec48890841be9.jpg

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2018 Denali with magneride. Readylift Tubular upper control arm swap and 2.25 strut spacer Leveling. Stock rear and stock 22 wheels. Love the new stance. I still have a slight rake which is perfect for the occasional tow or heavy load.

The tubular upper control arms have a thicker profile than the stock stamped UCAs. As a result I did not need relocation brackets for the magnaride sensors.

The stiffness and ride are unchanged.c354a67ae221d0e06e9c7f398b56b30c.jpg8cf39f4bf2c3c4037c93e7331015199e.jpgfa0ecf95f152c91a818605a9b845a4a4.jpgfd100e0d2155ae641b592dc2a693c29e.jpg

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20 hours ago, Perseus said:

I have a '14 I'm using a rc 2" front level and it sits dead nuts level at 38 1/2" front and rear. I'm looking to do the zone add a leaf in the rear to help with sag and give me some rake back. Anyone running this set up give some insight to how much higher the rear will sit and maybe post a few photos?? Thanks in advance pic is my leveled truck with about 1800lbs in the bed. ac45bdb3c0f8ba3e9c7ec48890841be9.jpg

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I had an add a leaf from a different company that was very good. It raised the rear 1 1/4”.

 

FYI, the front had a TGC 2.5” level in this pic. I eventually went to a 2” level and 1” rear block because I didn’t like the loss of factory ride and decreased range level of travel in the front at 2.5”. The increased clearance I ended up with is exactly what I wanted and I’m happy with the setup with the bigger LTZ stock wheels and tires. 

 

 

 

IMG_7248.jpg

Edited by Shredder15
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