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2014 Toppers, Caps, Campers


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Here are some pictures of the damage my ARE Z-SERIES did after taking it off for the first time. The dealer and ARE customer service said all trucks are built differently and not perfectly square to there mold and so there will be some tight edges that will come in contact with the truck bed. Like I said before if the topper designers already know this variable make the necessary changes to accommodate this. Anybody else have this problem or is it just me?

 

 

 

 

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Jimmyjam,

 

Very good point on this also. If I were to go this route can you take a picture or indicate to me what wire you tapped into in order to get a constant 12V. The topper dealer tapped into a wire harness that was located behind the spare tire and this is to the brake lights so the topper brake lights work. If you can tell the color or picture this wire is so the LED strip light works that would be great.

Hopefully someone else on here can address your question to what wire to get a constant 12v. It won't happen on my end till spring. It's -8 here today and a foot of snow coming this weekend. My truck doesn't fit in the garage and I won't be crawling underneath anytime soon.

Sorry buddy.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I have the factory bed rail lights and I don't think I would like them wired to that. Think of it this way; you get home, get out of the truck, open the rear topper glass and then figure out you need the light. So now you have to go back in the truck turn the light on get out what you wanted to from the back, go back inside of the truck to turn the lights off. Sounds like no fun. I have the rear glass switch so when I open it it automatically turns them on and then off when I close it. I can also bypass the switch in situations I don't want the light on. Or if I have the glass shut but want the lights on. To me it's the best way to do it. But to each there own. And if you already have a light on the topper you can just get your juice from there.

 

 

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Are you talking about this?

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/189742-leer-cap-install-advice/?p=1904881

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Just to be 100% clear about this, while I'm physically driving ~ if I have people in the back they could in theory turn the canopy dome light on while the rest of the bed lights are off?

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Thanks magstar67 I think this is what I'll end up doing.

My dealer used a hot wire underneath by the spare tire on my 2016. I didn't want to be tied into the bed rail lights so I don't have to enter the cab and use the switch. On all my other trucks, a line was run to the battery.

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So I was at the installer today and it wasn't worth the headache of wiring it up that way. The light is LED and you're not going to run your battery dead if it's left on over the night.

 

As for the 3rd break light, that had to be run to the cab for a tap under the dash. It was that or a logic box.

 

While I was there getting that done I found out that the company that owns LEER/Century now owns Snugtop.

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Update pic of my truck with the ARE CX Series I got. Went with the frame less side glass and drop front window. Much better quality and fit than the Jason I had.

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Edited by Deadeye
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Just to be 100% clear about this, while I'm physically driving ~ if I have people in the back they could in theory turn the canopy dome light on while the rest of the bed lights are off?

Sorry for the late response, I missed it in my notifications. You are correct. The dome light on your shell is wired seperatly than your bed cargo lamps. So the dome light can be turned anytime bed the bed cargo lights will only be on when you are in park.
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Here are some pictures of the damage my ARE Z-SERIES did after taking it off for the first time. The dealer and ARE customer service said all trucks are built differently and not perfectly square to there mold and so there will be some tight edges that will come in contact with the truck bed. Like I said before if the topper designers already know this variable make the necessary changes to accommodate this. Anybody else have this problem or is it just me?

 

I wouldn't be happy about paint damage myself. What solution did the dealer and customer service have when you reinstall?

 

I always look at each corner for any clearance issues. The rear can be eliminated by setting the cap just off of the bed rails but it will be shy of the front of the box. I have never seen one that tight in the front. I have the CX Series and there is plenty of room between the front and the box of the truck.

 

Your box could be out of spec but based on caps I have had on my truck, the same can be said for the cap.

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I wouldn't be happy about paint damage myself. What solution did the dealer and customer service have when you reinstall?

 

I always look at each corner for any clearance issues. The rear can be eliminated by setting the cap just off of the bed rails but it will be shy of the front of the box. I have never seen one that tight in the front. I have the CX Series and there is plenty of room between the front and the box of the truck.

 

Your box could be out of spec but based on caps I have had on my truck, the same can be said for the cap.

First they told me to adjust the shell so no edges touch the bed, but the shell is so tight there is no room for adjustment. The next best thing is to add shims on the bed rails to lift the shell so it clears the corners. I'll have to do this once winter is over with as it's not practical.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Would a big twin motorcycle load on to a truck with a standard cab high canopy? It would fit without the windshield but I suspect loading would be an issue! I would be interested in hearing from anyone who transports a motorcycle with a truck and topper.

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