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That is crap! If I took my driveshaft to a balancing shop, do you think I would get it back with clamps on it?

If their driveshafts are out of balance from factory have it replaced again with one that is not out!

What happens when the clamps break or move. Will you still have warranty, will you still be covered.

if they will not compromise I would get in writing that this fix is proper and legal to do. If that clamp comes off and hurts someone big trouble......!

I would ask a balancing shop that works on driveshafts, what is the standard industry practice method they use.

We deserve better, new vehicle no cutting corners fix it 100% right or replace part for known good one!

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So we've had rear ends replaced, drive shafts, and tires, with little to no luck at all. (tires have helped some)

 

I'd be curious to see what a good set of rear shocks would do for this issue and see if they would dampen the vibration. Between that and good tires, we might be onto something! If not that, maybe the torque converter.

 

Not wishing this on anyone, but hoping the torque converter route will be experimented with soon so we can rule that out and/or find a fix.

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Just called a driveshaft rebalancing shop, and I asked them how they would balance my driveshaft, would they use c clamps ever...answer absolutely no!

We would weld weights on, and if the aluminum was too thin then we would epoxy the weight on to the driveshaft.

But first we will check the run out before we balance, as sometimes a driveshaft needs to be cut turned and re welded.

Average cost is around $100 turn around 1 day average.

Edited by 2strokesmoke
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Follow Up; PIPE CLAMPS FOR DRIVE SHAFT BALANCE

 

I was just told by the GM rep after he discussed the pipe clamp concern with the Engineer that the recommended way GM balances drive shafts is to use pipe clamps.

 

They no longer use welded weights and the reason is the light weight thin aluminum shell of the shaft would be difficult to weld on.

 

This is GM's permanent fix.

Believe we just found the vibration - could it be the thin drive shaft oscillating?

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Follow Up; PIPE CLAMPS FOR DRIVE SHAFT BALANCE

 

I was just told by the GM rep after he discussed the pipe clamp concern with the Engineer that the recommended way GM balances drive shafts is to use pipe clamps.

 

They no longer use welded weights and the reason is the light weight thin aluminum shell of the shaft would be difficult to weld on.

 

This is GM's permanent fix.

I think they recently transitioned to using a wad of well chewed bubble gum stuck in the required spot. Besides being inexpensive, it is also environmentally friendly.

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Maybe we are on to something, the driveshaft walls are so thin they are oscillating at low rpm when gear upshifts?

GM has a new part number for the propeller shaft anyone know the part number and issue date.

Part change means design change or supplier change!

I hope GM makes good on sorting this monster out and fixing their loyal customers trucks.

I hope they don't take us to be fools! Many of us are very knowledgeable and have many tools available to us.

The social media and video can damage businesses swiftly and costly.

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A driveshaft must be designed to handle all the torque with an adequate safety margin to prevent permanent deformation and vibration. This means that adequate wall thickness and diameter is required to meet this goal. When you reduce the wall thickness, you must increase the tube diameter to prevent twisting of the tube when under torsional load. There is a practical balance between the two parameters.

 

A lot of engineering goes into driveshaft design. In my opinion, most of the problems encountered with these trucks are most likely workmanship related.

 

 

 

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/DSAG-0200.pdf

Edited by pm26
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Well we may have just accidentally stumbled upon the radio reception problem:

"If you have a vibration in step 1

and
step 2, the problem could
be the flywheel, pressure plate or
disc. If the vibration is so
severe it could shake the radio out of the dash, STOP THE

ENGINE."

:crackup:

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My driveshaft has weights welded on from the factory so it can certainly be done (at least on this one). Does everybody with the problem have the same type of driveshaft or has anybody kept track? That might be interesting data.

 

I have no vibration issues and my driveshaft is the 5.5" diam aluminum hydroformed (I'm guessing) shaft, 6.2 CC Standard bed.

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All of us should at least have weights welded to the shaft, the whole hose clamp setup that GM claims as a sufficient fix is complete BS. driveline shops weld or epoxy weights to them all of the time.

 

I would be curious as to where this driveshaft idea leads as far as if we all have the same one or differences in them.

 

With this many people with this issue, we are bound to find a fix soon (I hope and pray at least!)

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