Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Dropped off my truck today for the fuel tank replacement, right rear factory 20" rim asking for too much tape weight (3.25oz) just that one wheel, and the vibration issue at 75-80mph/ center seat counsel shaking. That's the only issue I'm having and hope they find a solution but with 711 pages of GMC/ Chevy having vibration issue I doubt it... I've read it all, tourqe converter, drive shaft replacement, rims and tire replacement, ring and pinion I believe, clamps on the leaf spring helping out, axle shaft out of specs, replacing rear end with yukon rear end, **** the list goes on and on. I like my truck a lot, and I would love to keep it for years to come but driving on a long road trip and avg 75-80mph will be a pain in the ass... One of my old friends who still works for GM, I asked him about this issue and he knows about it. He ordered a driveshaft for the customer and still had the vibration issue with no fix, he also drove a loaner vehicle which also has the same issue! Did he fig it out, sadly no. But he as a GM tech knows about the vibration issue. GM really screw up on this issue and continued to sell it with the same problem, 2014, 2015, 2016, and also read 2017 still vibrate. Hope I'm wrong but I don't think my dealer is going to figure it out and No Problem found or unable to duplicate the issue which is bs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just got back from a short road trip yesterday. 4 hours to Denver, stayed a few days and 4 hours home. She shook all the way at 70 mph. Sometimes the poor condition of our Colorado roads would mask it but in the southeast corner of Denver Metro the roads are pretty good.

 

Funny thing, set the cruise at 69 and its pretty good, bump it up to 70 and she's a mess. Pass a car up to 80 and its really bad. I guess im getting old but 69 in a 65 is ok for me. It would be nice to move the shakes up to 80 though.

 

Love the truck though. Still one of the best looking trucks on the road. I'm seeing more and more 2016-17 Silverado LTZ's with paint matched grilles. They are growing on me.

 

My wife didnt mention the shakes this trip, she must be getting used to it or doesnt want to engage my car problem OCD. Knowing it might end up with a whole day at a dodge dealer. She did mention how much better this new truck rides over big bumps and overall compared to my GMT800 CCSB. That thing was a wet noodle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm one who had some success w/truing the axle flanges a few months ago. Shaking badly again and it's kind of odd how it started again. Heading back to Phoenix from Lake Mead (Vegas) and stopped to get gas in Kingman. Driving fine before the stop, aggressive shaking afterwards. in fact, it was pulsating through the steering wheel, similar to what Red October sounded like to Jonesy before he sped up the tape to 10X speed. Vibrating on, vibrating off, etc.

 

Wheels balanced and road forced again at Discount tire. 3 wheels 3/4 oz out, 1 was just 1/4 oz. Road force on the rear tires were dang near perfect, but front 2 were .33 and .34 out. I'm not sure if this means inches...they didn't give me a lb reading. Anyone have insight? They said that they don't consider a tire "bad" until .50. I'll have a more detailed conversation w/them once I have more time.

 

Edit: The only improvement made was the pulsing got eliminated. Shaking still there.

Edited by Newly49
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm one who had some success w/truing the axle flanges a few months ago. Shaking badly again and it's kind of odd how it started again. Heading back to Phoenix from Lake Mead (Vegas) and stopped to get gas in Kingman. Driving fine before the stop, aggressive shaking afterwards. in fact, it was pulsating through the steering wheel, similar to what Red October sounded like to Jonesy before he sped up the tape to 10X speed. Vibrating on, vibrating off, etc.

 

Wheels balanced and road forced again at Discount tire. 3 wheels 3/4 oz out, 1 was just 1/4 oz. Road force on the rear tires were dang near perfect, but front 2 were .33 and .34 out. I'm not sure if this means inches...they didn't give me a lb reading. Anyone have insight? They said that they don't consider a tire "bad" until .50. I'll have a more detailed conversation w/them once I have more time.

 

Any improvement after the balance? Stock Tires and Stock Wheels?

 

I just contacted a Lemon Law Lawyer and they stated that they will be taking on my case... They also said I'm the 3rd Silverado with vibration issues TODAY. I know nothing here is new but come on already. I really don't want to go to a different brand but I don't know what to do at this point.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I got 3 new tires as I mentioned earlier in this hellascious thread. I thought my truck was better but the ride home was horrible. Vibrations on every road surface including new blacktop. I must say that this is the most expensive vehicle I have ever bought and it is by far the worst riding I've been in... my last truck was an 05 Dodge Ram 2500 with over 170k miles and it drove like a Cadillac compared to this. I also own a 2000 TransAm with a road race suspension. , roll cage. All aftermarket from front k member to Strange rearend and it rides nicer than my 2016 professional grade piece of $!&+

Sorry. Off rant for now

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Congratulations, you will love your Platinum! It has features you can't get on a Silverado, or Sierra, like Adaptive Cruise Control, Blind Spot Monitors, flat rear floorboard, and rear HVAC vents, on and on! What engine did you get? I have the Coyote 5.0L V-8 in my Platinum.

Yeap, Coyote 5.0L and it is much better than I thought it would be. Pulled 5,000lb. load around today and it didn't even seem strained at all. The transmission seems much better than what was in the Silverado, certainly smoother and isn't constantly hunting for a gear.

 

Welcome to the Club my friend. Instead of a Platinum I went for a Fully Loaded Lariat with virtually every package available, you'll enjoy it! post a pic of her

Absolutely loving this truck. I can't believe I waited so long. I wanted a Tundra but couldn't find exactly what I wanted. I now know the F-150 was the better choice for me anyways.

 

Wish you all the best at solving this beast. It seems all of the brands have some issues, just got to decide what you can live with. I couldn't live with the shaking any longer.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had my 2015 CCSB, 4x4, 5.3 LTZ for three weeks and it turned into a vibrator yesterday. Only had 5200 miles on it when I bought it.

 

It went from the smoothest vehicle I have ever owned to a vibrating mess. About a week ago I started feeling vibrations in the gas pedal. Nothing major just a minor annoyance. I get back from Nashville last night and drive it home from the airport and I started noticing a side to side vibration in the steering wheel at speeds between 65 and 75. It got worse at higher speeds.

 

I drove it on a 40 mile round trip today and it was worse. I've driven that same route numerous times and never had an issues. So I know it isn't the road.

 

I have an appointment Thursday at the dealership to have it looked at. Fingers crossed.

This just scares the $( out of me. 2016 Yukon owner with no buffeting or vibration, just low speed booming like (I'm convinced) everybody has to some degree. Thinking of moving to a Silverado or Sierra but damn, you have no way of knowing is one day it becomes a vibrator. I've been a Chevy/GMC guy as of late but I just can't see myself buying one. They sell so damn many of these things that it is hard to believe it occurs that frequently. But a random lemon law lawyer getting 3 new cases in one day is just f'd up.

 

I may need to look closer at a Titan or Ford.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a question for all of the guys out here who are mechanically inclined. Would it be possible to remove the rear drive shaft put in in 4x4 and drive to eliminate drive shaft and rear end as cause of vibes. If still present, reinstall shaft, then take out front shaft to eliminate front shaft/diff as cause? I'm almost positive this can be done but not sure what you can use in rear of trans to stop spillage of atf and also front of transfer case. Any trans gurus in this thread?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The front should be easy, flange to flange IIRC. Rear is a little more difficult, I remember the Dodges had a plug for doing this that was just a chunk of plastic.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Thanks. I'm going to do some research. A friend told me that you can just use a yolk in trans but I don't see how it would fall out
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a question for all of the guys out here who are mechanically inclined. Would it be possible to remove the rear drive shaft put in in 4x4 and drive to eliminate drive shaft and rear end as cause of vibes. If still present, reinstall shaft, then take out front shaft to eliminate front shaft/diff as cause? I'm almost positive this can be done but not sure what you can use in rear of trans to stop spillage of atf and also front of transfer case. Any trans gurus in this thread?

 

Yes it is possible and is one of things the dealer is suppose to try when troubleshooting the issue as outlined on page 3 here:

 

http://gm.oemdtc.com/753/vibration-analysis-and-diagnostic-2014-2015-chevrolet-silverado-gmc-sierra

 

"For 4WD Trucks, remove the rear propeller shaft, seal output shaft and drive the vehicle in 4WD. If the vibration is gone, the rear prop shaft could be the problem."

 

My dealer ignored my request to go through these steps...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Yes it is possible and is one of things the dealer is suppose to try when troubleshooting the issue as outlined on page 3 here:

 

http://gm.oemdtc.com/753/vibration-analysis-and-diagnostic-2014-2015-chevrolet-silverado-gmc-sierra

 

"For 4WD Trucks, remove the rear propeller shaft, seal output shaft and drive the vehicle in 4WD. If the vibration is gone, the rear prop shaft could be the problem."

 

My dealer ignored my request to go through these steps...

 

I believe, somewhere in the past 712 pages of posts, that someone tried this (at least the front shaft) and it did not fix his problem. This doesn't surprise me since both 2WD and 4WD trucks appear to have the problem.

Now, 07SoftTail claims he fixed his by having his rear drive shaft trued and balanced, but others have also checked their driveshaft and it was fine.

There was also (again a few pages back) talk that the rear axle flanges were badly machined and you could clearly see that they had a bulge on one side.

If you go back through all the pages, you will find that these and many more things were already tried. Some helped for a few people but not others. It seems there is not necessarily one specific problem that you can pinpoint for all trucks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.