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Heres a video of my truck trying a couple things. As you can see the the passenger side minus a flat spot isnt bad. The drivers side however is terrible. Not only is it out of round the hub face appears warped also. I will have it apart for the rest of the day and part or tomorrow if you guys want to see any other angles etc.

 

 

Edited by zmnypit
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Heres a video of my truck trying a couple things. As you can see the the passenger side minus a flat spot isnt bad. The drivers side however is terrible. Not only is it out of round the hub face appears warped also. I will have it apart for the rest of the day and part or tomorrow if you guys want to see any other angles etc.

 

 

 

Is your dial indicator incremented in .001 in? How far out is driver's side it total each way? Can quite make out your TIR (Total Indicator Runout) I agree driver's side O.D. needs to be trimmed and the lateral runout isn't good at all making your wheel and tire wobble. Geezus..!..............

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Is your dial indicator incremented in .001 in? How far out is driver's side it total each way? Can quite make out your TIR (Total Indicator Runout) I agree driver's side O.D. needs to be trimmed and the lateral runout isn't good at all making your wheel and tire wobble. Geezus..!..............

Yeah .001. Drivers side its around .05-.06 on the outside. .04 on the lateral. If you go full screen you can make it out. I'm waiting on my buddy to reply if he can turn then down or not on his lathe.

Edited by zmnypit
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Heres a video of my truck trying a couple things. As you can see the the passenger side minus a flat spot isnt bad. The drivers side however is terrible. Not only is it out of round the hub face appears warped also. I will have it apart for the rest of the day and part or tomorrow if you guys want to see any other angles etc.

 

 

 

 

Thats un****ingbelievable, I seen them out of round but thats extreme.

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Yeah .001. Drivers side its around .05-.06 on the outside. .04 on the lateral. If you go full screen you can make it out. I'm waiting on my buddy to reply if he can turn then down or not on his lathe.

 

The lateral is more of an issues because it looks like the studs would have to be removed and removing the metal may become a thickness issue like brake rotors. I don't know what the acceptable tolerances are for the flange thickness.

 

.040 out for the lateral over say a 7" flange would throw that out three times than that on a 20" wheel (~.125 or 1/8"). So a 20" wheel and tires would wobble about 1/8" of an inch. I'm not a motion engineer but I imagine that would certainly cause vibration @ ~ 70MPH. No?

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Heres a video of my truck trying a couple things. As you can see the the passenger side minus a flat spot isnt bad. The drivers side however is terrible. Not only is it out of round the hub face appears warped also. I will have it apart for the rest of the day and part or tomorrow if you guys want to see any other angles etc.

 

 

Holy SH!T thats bad. Is it just me, or does the black portion of the hub seem as though it isn't rotating centered? I blocked out the outside edge to try to minimize the illusion

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Heres a video of my truck trying a couple things. As you can see the the passenger side minus a flat spot isnt bad. The drivers side however is terrible. Not only is it out of round the hub face appears warped also. I will have it apart for the rest of the day and part or tomorrow if you guys want to see any other angles etc.

 

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Very interesting! The 40 thou face runout (lateral, as you refer to it) is extremely problematic. If that translates to the tire OD, as you point out, will be even more movement. No question that will be felt inside the cab!

 

Now, the flange OD runout may not be as problematic, although there is absolutely no excuse for such sloppy quality. Softail reported he removed a total of 18 grams of material to true up one of his axles. That's 0.6 oz. based on the ratio of radius' between the flange and the wheels, that is equivalent to about 1/4 oz on the rim diameter. 1/4 oz is about the minimum correction weights that can be used, at least in the old days when I was balancing tires. Also, all that weight won't be in one spot. Account for distribution, some will end up somewhat cancelling each other so can estimate the net unbalance to be about 2/3 that amount.

 

Of course, as vehicles get lighter and stiffer, they need everything to be machined truer and be better balanced. Anyway, it would be real easy to see how much vibration 1/4 oz causes - simply stop by your local parts store, buy a 1/4 of stick-on wheel weight and try it out. If it's significant, should immediately be felt. Regardless, though, I would want my flanges to run a lot truer that 50 thou!!

 

Now, the hub OD and studs are another issue. In Softails video, can clearly see the hub OD has very little runout. This is confirmed by Softail who said he checked everything and only the flange OD was bad. Which is interesting that his flanges has no face runout.... Anyway, he also confirmed that the studs where running true as well. This is incredibly critical, as the factory wheels are both hub centric and lug centric.

 

Did you happen to measure your hub OD runout with a dial? Would be interesting to know. I checked the front ones on mine when I swapped the winter set on and got about 1 thou TIR. Didn't check the rear, though. Sure going to now.

 

All I can say is that GM has to be the worst automobile company in a long time. Machining simple parts like these axles is not rocket science these days, and there is absolutely no excuse for this. Pure incompetence. And GM can blame their out-source supplier but I don't buy that BS. They are responsible to make sure the parts they install in the vehicle are right. Period. Excuses are what I get from my 6 year old. Not what I will accept from a multi billion dollar corporation.

 

And tomorrow, all the execs at GM will go to work and write themselves some more bonus cheques for doing such a great job...... While you tear apart your new truck to fix their crap. Hmmm. Disappointing to say the least.

Edited by Wrench589
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Heres a video of my truck trying a couple things. As you can see the the passenger side minus a flat spot isnt bad. The drivers side however is terrible. Not only is it out of round the hub face appears warped also. I will have it apart for the rest of the day and part or tomorrow if you guys want to see any other angles etc.

 

 

 

I see one potential issue with your methodology. On the passenger side the hub is rubbing the indicator tip in a downward motion going away from the tip, which is best. On the driver side, the hub is upward toward the indicator tip, meaning the irregularities in the hub are smacking the tip and causing bounce in the indicator.

 

I would actually put the indicator straight up and down rather than angled, and rotate the axles by hand to get an accurate TIR. Same for the face runout, although your setup on that is much less affected.

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Do you have vibration issues, if so, at what speeds?

I do. 40-45mph and 70-77mph are the more noticeable speeds.

 

Great video, thanks for taking the time to do that.

You're welcome!

 

 

The lateral is more of an issues because it looks like the studs would have to be removed and removing the metal may become a thickness issue like brake rotors. I don't know what the acceptable tolerances are for the flange thickness.

 

.040 out for the lateral over say a 7" flange would throw that out three times than that on a 20" wheel (~.125 or 1/8"). So a 20" wheel and tires would wobble about 1/8" of an inch. I'm not a motion engineer but I imagine that would certainly cause vibration @ ~ 70MPH. No?

 

I thought about that. More than likely instead of having them turned down I will just replace them with the yukon axles or aftermarket. I have vibration from 40-45mph and 70-77mph.

 

 

I see one potential issue with your methodology. On the passenger side the hub is rubbing the indicator tip in a downward motion going away from the tip, which is best. On the driver side, the hub is upward toward the indicator tip, meaning the irregularities in the hub are smacking the tip and causing bounce in the indicator.

 

I would actually put the indicator straight up and down rather than angled, and rotate the axles by hand to get an accurate TIR. Same for the face runout, although your setup on that is much less affected.

I couldn't get it to grab straight up and down. I was able to hold it in place but it was pretty much the same result. I can re-do it if need be spinning the axles by hand?? Once I seen ithe pass side wasn't that bad other than the flat spot I wasn't really concerned about getting the indicator straight up.

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