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Well crap-- I was afraid of that, still looking for the magic bullet. Thanks for the info though.

My service guy said they had one in where they replaced the rear end and drive shaft, and it did nothing. So he's using that as an excuse to not want to look into the drive shaft or rear end or axles.

I do believe that the stiff frames magnify any vibrations, but what the hell, Honda figured out years ago that they had to engineer flex into their motorcycle frames. What's taking GM so long?

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It's not tires, shocks, struts, motor mounts, transmission mounts, stereo, seats, doors, muffler, intake manifold, radiator, grille, bumpers, ez-lift tailgate, hood, windows, headlights, tail lights, roof, speakers, side mirrors, door trim, paint, frame, body mounts, antenna, chrome, tire valves, lug nuts, heater core, A/C condenser, plug wires, head bolts, pushrods, pistons, camshaft, timing chain, lifters, o'ring gaskets, trans cooler, engine oil cooler, pin stripes, Z71 Logo, On star Antenna, navigation, back up camera, bumper brackets, exhaust tip, ECM, TCM, BCM, steering wheel, dashboard, door panels, floor mats, fog lights, wheels, undercoating, wheel well liners, battery, master cylinder, bowties, bed liner, tint, horn, ABS, Stabilitrack, Yaw sensor, washer fluid tank, A/C compressor, key fob, nuts and bolts, rotors, carpet, brake peddle, throttle body, center console, jump seat, sway bars, springs, engine, transmission, powersteering, tie rods, control arms, ball joints, spindles, calipers, brake booster, fuel line, fuel pump, spark plugs, bumper valance, tag, turn signals, exhaust manifolds. engine oil, trans fluid, brake fluid, headliner.....It's either the driveshaft, axle shafts or both

 

Let me know if I left something off of the list.

RT

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It's not tires, shocks, struts, motor mounts, transmission mounts, stereo, seats, doors, muffler, intake manifold, radiator, grille, bumpers, ez-lift tailgate, hood, windows, headlights, tail lights, roof, speakers, side mirrors, door trim, paint, frame, body mounts, antenna, chrome, tire valves, lug nuts, heater core, A/C condenser, plug wires, head bolts, pushrods, pistons, camshaft, timing chain, lifters, o'ring gaskets, trans cooler, engine oil cooler, pin stripes, Z71 Logo, On star Antenna, navigation, back up camera, bumper brackets, exhaust tip, ECM, TCM, BCM, steering wheel, dashboard, door panels, floor mats, fog lights, wheels, undercoating, wheel well liners, battery, master cylinder, bowties, bed liner, tint, horn, ABS, Stabilitrack, Yaw sensor, washer fluid tank, A/C compressor, key fob, nuts and bolts, rotors, carpet, brake peddle, throttle body, center console, jump seat, sway bars, springs, engine, transmission, powersteering, tie rods, control arms, ball joints, spindles, calipers, brake booster, fuel line, fuel pump, spark plugs, bumper valance, tag, turn signals, exhaust manifolds. engine oil, trans fluid, brake fluid, headliner.....It's either the driveshaft, axle shafts or both

 

Let me know if I left something off of the list.

RT

You forgot the seat belts. And dash lights.

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Here is my story. Had a vibration from day one flat spots on the tires it will go away. Should have real quickly If true.

Went to the dealer and they RFB the tires and replaced several. I had the LS2's the poorest excuse for a truck tire from Goodyear I have ever seen. I pitched a fit about the safety of the tires. They spun very easily and weren't exactly confidence inspiring in the braking department either.

Long story short I returned them to Goodyear and paid the difference for their best tire I think wrangler AT with a Kevlar belt. Much better tire. Pitched a fit with GM too and received a concession.

Felt good at first still vibrated then I had them rotated and balanced again at 6,000 miles felt good for about 50 miles. All this time I was experiencing vibrations over 70 sometimes worse then others like everything got in sync tires, roadway, and whatever and it really vibrated.

In addition I have changed to Bilstein 5100's which is nice improvement in ride and handling IMO. Tried them at their highest setting to level the truck but didn't like the ride of the compressed springs. Settled on one setting above stock and I am very pleased.

So around 6500 miles I am little irritated with the vibration and trips to the dealer are a real PITA where I am currently working.

After reading every post on this board I am ready to try the driveshaft. But since I had the front shocks lowered to one above stock the the steering wheel is cocked slightly to the right which bothers me. The shop did a poor job on the alignment.

So I take it to Parker Tire in Tallassee,Al and ask them to correct the alignment and RFB the tires. They said most of the tires had too much weight. All but one tire was in spec under 25 lbs the other over 32. But the improvement was very noticeable.

I also somewhere in the this time frame torqued my axle u bolts to 80 lbs whiched helped also.

Around 12,500 miles noticed the vibrations coming back some.

Back to Parker for another RFB and rotation which put the one out of spec tire on the back.

Truck is really smooth.

Plus I torqued the bolts to 100lbs and I noticed the truck just felt tighter.

The only time I notice vibrations now are ones I blame on the road surface.

So from my experience I would suggest tightening the u bolts to 100lbs getting a good RFB where they will actually rotate the tires on the wheels to get the best balance.

Changing the shocks might help too.

 

Also my son had a 2014 GMC CC all terrain with stock Bridgestone tires and never complained of any vibration issues during the 35,000 miles he had it.

Edited by DavidND
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You forgot to add Driver sensitivity to vibration on your list RT, GM has tried to blame it on that. Even in my case they tried it, funny how my sensitivity was cured by Toyota. But the co pay was kind of expensive lol

Edited by C6Bill
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You forgot to add Driver sensitivity to vibration on your list RT, GM has tried to blame it on that. Even in my case they tried it, funny how my sensitivity was cured by Toyota. But the co pay was kind of expensive lol

Yeah mine said that in sorts and I called bullshit when I made him ride with me in an on the lot used 2012 and it was perfect! I do have something else I'm gonna try and that is to take a diff carrier with ring gear installed and check runout on the outer portion of the gear and then check balance. Some have stated the ring gear was their issue and gm did a gear change. Soooooo on to the next step. BTW i found that the out of round axle flanges that I just tested had over 18 grams of weight that i turned off of the axle that i trued up. That's a helluva lot!

 

RT

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I think that is part of the problem, there are so many things out of balance that on some of the trucks they cancel each other out and you get a smooth one. But I only hear that there are smooth ones out there as I have never actually been in one.

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I think that is part of the problem, there are so many things out of balance that on some of the trucks they cancel each other out and you get a smooth one. But I only hear that there are smooth ones out there as I have never actually been in one.

 

Well come on down to Phoenix....you can have the keys and go as fast as you like and notice how smooth it is! Don't concern yourself with the plethora of weights on each CHROME CLAD WHEEL OR THE DRIVESHAFT? BUT YEAH>>>>IT"S SMOOTH

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Yeah mine said that in sorts and I called bullshit when I made him ride with me in an on the lot used 2012 and it was perfect! I do have something else I'm gonna try and that is to take a diff carrier with ring gear installed and check runout on the outer portion of the gear and then check balance. Some have stated the ring gear was their issue and gm did a gear change. Soooooo on to the next step. BTW i found that the out of round axle flanges that I just tested had over 18 grams of weight that i turned off of the axle that i trued up. That's a helluva lot!

 

RT

 

18 grams? That's like a half ounce of "Pot" A 5,000 pound+ Truck with 1/2 ounce of pot on one side vs the other? Really, I am going to the garage to burn one because now I have officially heard it all. I can't comment any more on this sorry@

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It's very sad that this thread is up to 692 pages. I often think about trading my 2015 2500 in for a new 1500 with a leveling kit, each time I read this it makes me rethink that idea. You would think GM could get it together and solve this problem. I cancelled an order on a 2014 1500 for this very reason, yet they have made four model years since then, and problems are still showing up. Very sad

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Happy New Year. I'm taking my truck back to stock. No more levels, lifts, or aftermarket wheels/tires, just stock. Then I'll see about some overpriced highway tires(or whatever balances best), a trued driveshaft, and axles. Maybe I'll drop the rear or add a sway bar like RAM does it. I just need to not be pissed, fixing this truck is not a real thing. Tolerable will do.

 

Sent from my OnePlus 2 using Tapatalk

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