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If I still had my 2014 I would have this driveshaft trueing done. The Michelin tires were a big help but the vibration never fully went away on the truck, it was just reduced to a tolerable level. I always wondered what it really was........ I tell you one thing if a man comes on here and states that his truck was 100% fixed and vibration free after having the driveshaft trued then if I still had a truck with vibration I would be pulling my driveshaft off and having it trued so quickly that it would make your neck spin, just sayin. Do you guys maybe suspect that ole softtail has a set of driveshaft alignment chain stores and is trying to drum up business? LMFAO

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I love it... 600 pages of people trying all kinds of fixes. Some work on some trucks, and some don't. A guy reads 10 pages, tries a driveshaft fix, and holy moly he's got the whole thing figured out! Congratulations on your fix, and on how you've so eloquently communicated it!

Well said.

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Just returned from the dealer for "a" vibration issue. The tech and I went for a drive so I could show him exactly when it does it. When we were driving, he discounted any rolling items just on how the vibration came and went (I would of been disappointed in his diagnosis if he had said it was the tires) and thought it could be a software issue with the transmission. After we got back to service he worked on it a bit, then when for a 10 min test drive with another tech. They did this twice. They are going to replace the torque converter when the parts show up. Then we'll see if that fixes it.

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Glad you got your's fixed Robert, happy trucking to you :thumbs:

Yeah...Bill it's been aggravating for sure. I was going to check balance on the rotors next, then axle runout. Smooth riding now Brother and to think some guys don't want to admit that an old redneck wrench like me has a significant find and to be so easy and very inexpensive (IMO) to fix. On top of that...putting all of their faith in the GM engineers, service writers, service techs thinking just because that these guys work on them everyday that they could not have possibly overlooked this for 4 years now LOL. I am definitely not an engineer but I also don't overlook the obvious.... Cheers Boys!

 

 

RT

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Yeah...Bill it's been aggravating for sure. I was going to check balance on the rotors next, then axle runout. Smooth riding now Brother and to think some guys don't want to admit that an old redneck wrench like me has a significant find and to be so easy and very inexpensive (IMO) to fix. On top of that...putting all of their faith in the GM engineers, service writers, service techs thinking just because that these guys work on them everyday that they could not have possibly overlooked this for 4 years now LOL. I am definitely not an engineer but I also don't overlook the obvious.... Cheers Boys!

 

 

RT

I for one think your fix makes sense and is worth a try. My vibration gets worse with speed really noticeable above 80. Makes sense to me that it could be the drive shaft. Now if I can just find a place in Birmingham or Montgomery that will true a driveshaft.

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If I still had one I'd give your fix a try, it would have been cheaper than the loss I took opting out lol

Hey C6Bill, glad you made it home ok. Yeah, truing and balancing the drive shaft would be a relatively inexpensive fix for sure. Wouldn't an easy way to test for an out of balance drive shift would be to lift the rear wheels off the ground by the frame? Then have someone inside the truck gradually apply power to the rear wheels, if the drive shaft is bad, out of balance or not true, wouldn't the rear wheels begin to increasingly oscillate as engine rpm is increased? Just noodling. By the way, what's happened to your wing-man Jesse? Seems he has gone dark. Hope he is ok :)

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Hey C6Bill, glad you made it home ok. Yeah, truing and balancing the drive shaft would be a relatively inexpensive fix for sure. Wouldn't an easy way to test for an out of balance drive shift would be to lift the rear wheels off the ground by the frame? Then have someone inside the truck gradually apply power to the rear wheels, if the drive shaft is bad, out of balance or not true, wouldn't the rear wheels begin to increasingly oscillate as engine rpm is increased? Just noodling. By the way, what's happened to your wing-man Jesse? Seems he has gone dark. Hope he is ok :)

You can use a Magnetic base with a Indicator set on drive shaft and try the method above and check run out.If there's run out doesn't mean it's just drive shaft but it would mean could be drive shaft or somewhere in the drivetrain.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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AAM driveshafts are notorious for being poor quailty.

 

The 3rd gen Dodge had vibration issues caused by the front driveshaft...my local driveshaft shop told me the spline was worn out on the front driveshaft, with 500 miles on it. The flanges on some of the rear differentials were drilled wrong and that caused an out of round issue. I replaced the front shaft with a new AAM shaft that was no better. I also replaced every ujoint by 75k miles because everyone had a pin sizing and that caused squeaks and vibrations.

 

Some of the 3rd gen Dodges had vibrations, and a good many of them were never fixed...and threads were on the Dodge forums just like this one.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

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You can use a Magnetic base with a Indicator set on drive shaft and try the method above and check run out.If there's run out doesn't mean it's just drive shaft but it would mean could be drive shaft or somewhere in the drivetrain.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is the most simple way to check it for sure. Take 3 readings one about 6 inches in from each end and one dead center of the shaft. Mark the shaft in all three places so you know when you've spun the shaft a full 360 degrees. Mark the high the high and low point at each location and record your measurements. Subtract the high from the low and that's your total run out. Next step is to disconnect the drive shaft from the pinion flange and rotate it 180 degrees an reconnect it to the pinion flange. Repeat the same process of measurement in the same three locations. If the high and low point are in the same spot and total run out measurements are within .002" of the originals you have a pretty accurate run out measurement. If the measurements have changed and the high and low points have switched places the problem is in the pinion flange and likely the pinion flange is off center meaning the mounting ears for the u joint on the pinion flange are not concentric about the pinion shaft.

 

Another method is to do like snoring bear mentioned jack the truck up and run it up to speed and see if it shakes.

 

Another method is to use 2 hose clamps round the shaft, The worm gear portion of the clamp creates an eccentric imbalance. Rotate them in 90 degree increments until the vibrations goes away or lessens then fine tune their location, This is the most time consuming way to do it basically the guess and check method. The old EVA 2 vibration analyzer GM used to use had a feature that used a strobe light for balancing a drive shaft with hose clamps and piece of reflective tape. If you look on youtube you can find videos of driveshaft balancing on the truck using an EVA or EVA2.

 

I've checked the driveshaft 10 ways from sunday on my truck and I know its not the source of my issue. Definitely not saying it couldn't be the source for others though.

 

 

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Hey C6Bill, glad you made it home ok. Yeah, truing and balancing the drive shaft would be a relatively inexpensive fix for sure. Wouldn't an easy way to test for an out of balance drive shift would be to lift the rear wheels off the ground by the frame? Then have someone inside the truck gradually apply power to the rear wheels, if the drive shaft is bad, out of balance or not true, wouldn't the rear wheels begin to increasingly oscillate as engine rpm is increased? Just noodling. By the way, what's happened to your wing-man Jesse? Seems he has gone dark. Hope he is ok :)

I'm just following along, no reason to repeat what has already been said 1000 times here. Anyone who joins can stop being lazy and read at least some of what has been said. Glad your surgery went well and hope you're recovering well buddy.

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I'm just following along, no reason to repeat what has already been said 1000 times here. Anyone who joins can stop being lazy and read at least some of what has been said. Glad your surgery went well and hope you're recovering well buddy.

Thanks Jesse, I'm making good progress. I was released to drive a couple days ago. So, that's been kinda like being let out of jail. Speaking of (trucks not jail :) ) I believe you mentioned awhile back that you had agreed to swap your problem truck for a 2016 Denali? Did you make the swap and if yes how does your new truck ride? Are you going to flip it for a Tundra?

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Yeah...Bill it's been aggravating for sure. I was going to check balance on the rotors next, then axle runout. Smooth riding now Brother and to think some guys don't want to admit that an old redneck wrench like me has a significant find and to be so easy and very inexpensive (IMO) to fix. On top of that...putting all of their faith in the GM engineers, service writers, service techs thinking just because that these guys work on them everyday that they could not have possibly overlooked this for 4 years now LOL. I am definitely not an engineer but I also don't overlook the obvious.... Cheers Boys!

 

 

RT

Congradutions are in order. I think it's great that a fix was found. Even if it doesn't fix all trucks it will fix some trucks. What about the front drive shaft? Think it could be a suspect in some trucks? Sure would like a fix for my FM radio reception. Any ideas? Can you be a multiple hero? My headlights suck also.
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Congradutions are in order. I think it's great that a fix was found. Even if it doesn't fix all trucks it will fix some trucks. What about the front drive shaft? Think it could be a suspect in some trucks? Sure would like a fix for my FM radio reception. Any ideas? Can you be a multiple hero? My headlights suck also.

The front driveshaft was the cause of vibrations in the Dodge 2500s, and that was also made by AAM...I wouldn't dismiss it.

 

For the radio reception, has anyone considered the coax size? It's a 1/8" diameter, old stuff was nearly 3/8"...can't imagine that doesn't cause some signal loss.

 

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

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