Shake or Vibration Issues

[jeffziss]

Well, Michelin has always had the reputation of a high end, high quality, luxury, smooth riding tire. Now, lots of brands in all industries have evolved over time, and some of the old status has changed. But Michelin seems to still be there. I put Michelin X-Ice on one of my other SUV's and found them to be very smooth and quiet. (Not the best ice tire, though, but that's a different topic).

 

So, I would definitely like to try a set of Michelins on my Yukon. Just need to get GM to pay for it....

I put Michelin Defenders on my 16 at the suggestion of a tire shop. They road force balanced them to within 5. I don't know what the 5 actually means but I do know that the GM spec is 15. This was the 3rd set of tires on the truck in under 600 miles (stock Duellers, BFG KOs and then these). All three sets of tires had the same exact vibration. I wouldn't waste your money trying this on your own. The BFGs right great on my Tundra and I sold the Duellers on craigslist for $400

[pm26]

I put Michelin Defenders on my 16 at the suggestion of a tire shop. They road force balanced them to within 5. I don't know what the 5 actually means but I do know that the GM spec is 15. This was the 3rd set of tires on the truck in under 600 miles (stock Duellers, BFG KOs and then these). All three sets of tires had the same exact vibration. I wouldn't waste your money trying this on your own. The BFGs right great on my Tundra and I sold the Duellers on craigslist for $400

5lbs road force variation means that your tire is only very slightly out of round. Road force variation is measured on a balancing machine equipped with a pneumatically operated roller which is pressed against the wheel/tire with some force to simulate on the road conditions. Measuring the road force variations, even if low, does not mean the wheel is balanced. The machine measures the wheel imbalance as the second step. Even road force variation of zero does not guarantee a balanced wheel assembly if balancing is not done as a second step. Road force variation measurement is then nothing more than a sanity check to see if the tire is out of round within the maximum limit (15 lbs force variation for GM). If the road force variation number is higher than the limit, the machine tells the operator to rotate the tire on the rim a certain number of degrees to lower the overall road force variation number.

 

I believe that if the truck has no other problems and you have properly balanced four tires, each with say 23 lbs road force variation, you will not have any vibration problems. GM tightenend the spec to try to mask other problems by using more round tires.

Edited February 13, 2016 by pm26

[Wrench589]

5lbs road force variation means that your tire is only very slightly out of round. Road force variation is measured on a balancing machine equipped with a pneumatically operated roller which is pressed against the wheel/tire with some force to simulate on the road conditions. Measuring the road force variations, even if low, does not mean the wheel is balanced. The machine measures the wheel imbalance as the second step. Even road force variation of zero does not guarantee a balanced wheel assembly if balancing is not done as a second step. Road force variation measurement is then nothing more than a sanity check to see if the tire is out of round within the maximum limit (15 lbs force variation for GM). If the road force variation number is higher than the limit, the machine tells the operator to rotate the tire on the rim a certain number of degrees to lower the overall road force variation number.

 

I believe that if the truck has no other problems and you have properly balanced four tires, each with say 23 lbs road force variation, you will not have any vibration problems. GM tightenend the spec to try to mask other problems by using more round tires.

 

It's actually more that roundness that Road Force Variation measures. "Uniformity", as the tire industry officially calls it, is a measure of any radial force generated through the action of the tire rolling over the surface. Now, the first thing that is obvious is, of course, any out-of-roundness (or "runout"), but there is more. In addition to runout, and internal variation of the stiffness of the tire sidewall and/or tread will generate what acts like a soft spot or a hard spot. It may not have a dimensional variation, but can still be there. This will also generate a variation in the resistive force of the tire as that spot engages the ground. And this generates a "whump" every turn of the tire.

 

So, one can't simply measure the runout with a dial indicator and call it good. That's why the tire factories use multi-million dollar uniformity checkers, and why Hunter developed their RF machine with the roller. To simulate the rolling action and measure any forces generated.

 

Now the tricky part. Since we're not talking about mass unbalance, how is excessive RF corrected? Piling weight on the wheel will do nothing to correct RFV. Well, if you are lucky, and the rim has some runout, then you can do what Hunter calls Force Matching, where they match the high spot on the tire to the low spot on the rim to cancel each out. But if the wheel is perfectly round, there is only two options. A small amount of tread can be ground off to "soften" the hard spot of the tire. (In fact, the tire manufactures do this sometime, which is why if you do measure runout and have some, may be this not a defect!). But, GM does not allow it in the field. So the on,unbothered option is a new tire.

 

And like PM26 said, after all the pissingbaround with Road Force is done, the wheel/tire still needs to be mass balanced.

Edited February 13, 2016 by Wrench589

[BootyHunter86]

Ok so 3 days into the "fix" and so far it's working for me. It now very rarely does it (and when it does, it's minimal) I'm pleased with my $18 mod haha

 

 

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[Jeff Harvey]

I didn't read through all of the replies, so if this has already been commented on I apologize. That being said, we have a family business that purchased a 2015 Silverado 1500 with the max trailering package and a 2015 Yukon XL last April. Both have the driveline vibration. They replaced the ring and pinion in the Silverado within the first 500 miles. It took a lot of the vibration out. but not all of it. After multiple trips to the dealership with the Yukon we took it to a different dealership who immediately did the same repair as the Silverado. It did not fix the problem so dad traded it in. 2 weeks ago I purchased a 2014 Sierra Z71 2wd with 7900 miles on it. I too have the vibration. I however am not as forgiving as my brother or my father. They have replaced my tires and ring and pinion. It is going back next week to see what else can be replaced. GM obviously has a problem. I will update on any solutions.

[pm26]

I didn't read through all of the replies, so if this has already been commented on I apologize. That being said, we have a family business that purchased a 2015 Silverado 1500 with the max trailering package and a 2015 Yukon XL last April. Both have the driveline vibration. They replaced the ring and pinion in the Silverado within the first 500 miles. It took a lot of the vibration out. but not all of it. After multiple trips to the dealership with the Yukon we took it to a different dealership who immediately did the same repair as the Silverado. It did not fix the problem so dad traded it in. 2 weeks ago I purchased a 2014 Sierra Z71 2wd with 7900 miles on it. I too have the vibration. I however am not as forgiving as my brother or my father. They have replaced my tires and ring and pinion. It is going back next week to see what else can be replaced. GM obviously has a problem. I will update on any solutions.

So let me get this straight, after vibration experience with 2 GM trucks and GM's failure to fix the problem you went out and bought another GM truck which also vibrates?

Edited February 14, 2016 by pm26

[Snoringbear]

"So let me get this straight, after vibration experience with 2 GM trucks and GM's failure to fix the problem you went out and bought another GM truck which also vibrates?"

 

Guess the dude is an optimist, lol!

[DALaws]

I know some have had luck with a $18 fix. But, don't think this is anyway agreed to by GM as a fix to their problem? I certainly don't want to but a 18 clamp on a $40k truck with 100 miles on it.

 

Been a week since it n the shop. They have had it longer than I have and they only said "it has a vibration" when I Called for update. They have yet to call.

 

All perspective Silverado/Sierra buyers. Be warned,run don't walk away from purchasing one. As much as it kills me to say, buy non-GM truck.

Edited February 14, 2016 by DALaws

[Jeff Harvey]

"So let me get this straight, after vibration experience with 2 GM trucks and GM's failure to fix the problem you went out and bought another GM truck which also vibrates?"

 

Guess the dude is an optimist, lol!

So let me "set" this straight. The 3rd truck vibrates when you go over 70 MPH. I did not drive it to an interstate where I could maintain this speed during the test drive. The other 2 vibrate starting around 40 to 50 mph. I do have faith that my dealer will get the problem repaired. So far they have not let me down. We purchase a lot of vehicles from them and use the service department religiously. I have 24 GM vehicles to maintain and have found them to be more honest than any of the independents we have tried. It also doesn't hurt that I bought a truck that had sold for $44K 13 months ago and I paid $30K for it with 7,900 miles on it and was given all the factory warranty back. So for that, I can deal with them working to fix the problem that was created by a GM supplier. They also give me what ever I want to drive when it's there with the exception of a Z06, Z28,ZL1 or CTS-V. And if anyone is interested the dealer is Bradshaw Automotive

Edited February 17, 2016 by LC1150

[steelcity]

And if anyone is interested the dealer is Bradshaw Automotive in Greer,SC.

Greer, home of my main man, Scotty Cannon!

[Jeff Harvey]

Greer, home of my main man, Scotty Cannon!

He doesn't live far from me. I haven't talked to him in many years.

[BootyHunter86]

So let me "set" this straight. The 3rd truck vibrates when you go over 70 MPH. I did not drive it to an interstate where I could maintain this speed during the test drive. The other 2 vibrate starting around 40 to 50 mph. I do have faith that my dealer will get the problem repaired. So far they have not let me down. We purchase a lot of vehicles from them and use the service department religiously. I have 24 GM vehicles to maintain and have found them to be more honest than any of the independents we have tried. It also doesn't hurt that I bought a truck that had sold for $44K 13 months ago and I paid $30K for it with 7,900 miles on it and was given all the factory warranty back. So for that, I can deal with them working to fix the problem that was created by a GM supplier. They also give me what ever I want to drive when it's there with the exception of a Z06, Z28,ZL1 or CTS-V. And if anyone is interested the dealer is Bradshaw Automotive in Greer,SC.

My past 5 cars have been GM

2015 Sierra Denali

2012 CTS V Coupe

2007 Escalade

2007 Z06

1997 Corvette C5 (my first GM car haha)

 

I'm brand loyal, and can deal with a stupid vibration.

I installed the clamp and it seemed to help me out. Now it rarely does it and it's very minimal. I'm not very picky, but when I pay 50K+ for a vehicle I expect it not to shake like it has Parkinson's. If it gets worse then I'll bring it in tithe dealer. This is one of those fixed we the consumers are going to have to figure out. Best of luck. Hope they can fix it and tell you what they did.

 

 

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[tnchevy]

Must be hard to be brand loyal then? The only thing I am loyal to is my wallet and I let it decide what I buy, not what symbol is on the grill. If this truck gives me any more grief than the vibrations I get at 70+ then I will be very open to try to let someone else earn my money.

Edited February 14, 2016 by tnchevy

[BootyHunter86]

Must be hard to be brand loyal then? The only thing I am loyal to is my wallet and I let it decide what I buy, not what symbol is on the grill. If this truck gives me any more grief than the vibrations I get at 70+ then I will be very open to try to let someone else earn my money.

Oh same here. I usually stick to GM because of the reliability and cheap prices of parts and what not. I had an M6 (2008) and the engine oil pump failed, causing the engine to cease. 32K for a new engine from Belgium. Took 2 months to get it fixed (through Carmax warranty, which was a bitch because they were saying it was negligence on my part, and that I drove the car too hard)

I had to threaten them with a lawyer to get them to cover the car. 27K miles and the engine suddenly dies? Nope. Not on my coin. I've had good luck with GM so that's why I stick with them.

 

 

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[67ChevyRedneck]

So let me "set" this straight. The 3rd truck vibrates when you go over 70 MPH. I did not drive it to an interstate where I could maintain this speed during the test drive. The other 2 vibrate starting around 40 to 50 mph. I do have faith that my dealer will get the problem repaired. So far they have not let me down. We purchase a lot of vehicles from them and use the service department religiously. I have 24 GM vehicles to maintain and have found them to be more honest than any of the independents we have tried. It also doesn't hurt that I bought a truck that had sold for $44K 13 months ago and I paid $30K for it with 7,900 miles on it and was given all the factory warranty back. So for that, I can deal with them working to fix the problem that was created by a GM supplier. They also give me what ever I want to drive when it's there with the exception of a Z06, Z28,ZL1 or CTS-V. And if anyone is interested the dealer is Bradshaw Automotive in Greer,SC.

**** Bradshaw. They're the assholes that told me my vibration was normal operation AFTER they told me they didn't feel a vibration.