Shake or Vibration Issues

[scott19677]

I still believe it to be the rear end assembly causing the problem. I am on my third 2014 and although this one doesn't have the shakes as bad. It still has a very bad "shutter" most noticeable

when letting off the throttle, like when exiting the interstate and taking foot off the gas but not stepping on the brakes. And then there is the" jitters" in the steering wheel where you seem to feel EVERY little crack in the road. Kinda feels like rumble strips. And then there is the "shudder" when taking off from a start. First gear=shudder, second gear=shudder, third gear= pulls great.

 

 

???

I still believe it to be the rear end assembly causing the problem. I am on my third 2014 and although this one doesn't have the shakes as bad. It still has a very bad "shutter" most noticeable

when letting off the throttle, like when exiting the interstate and taking foot off the gas but not stepping on the brakes. And then there is the" jitters" in the steering wheel where you seem to feel EVERY little crack in the road. Kinda feels like rumble strips. And then there is the "shudder" when taking off from a start. First gear=shudder, second gear=shudder, third gear= pulls great.

 

 

???

I still believe it to be the rear end assembly causing the problem. I am on my third 2014 and although this one doesn't have the shakes as bad. It still has a very bad "shutter" most noticeable

when letting off the throttle, like when exiting the interstate and taking foot off the gas but not stepping on the brakes. And then there is the" jitters" in the steering wheel where you seem to feel EVERY little crack in the road. Kinda feels like rumble strips. And then there is the "shudder" when taking off from a start. First gear=shudder, second gear=shudder, third gear= pulls great.

 

 

???

I still believe it to be the rear end assembly causing the problem. I am on my third 2014 and although this one doesn't have the shakes as bad. It still has a very bad "shutter" most noticeable

when letting off the throttle, like when exiting the interstate and taking foot off the gas but not stepping on the brakes. And then there is the" jitters" in the steering wheel where you seem to feel EVERY little crack in the road. Kinda feels like rumble strips. And then there is the "shudder" when taking off from a start. First gear=shudder, second gear=shudder, third gear= pulls great.

 

 

???

[goodbye-gm]

I'm nearing the end of the repurchase process and the turn-in date for my truck is soon. The gentleman handling my case said "sorry for the delay on this, we’ve just been swamped".

[20SierraL8T24]

I think it has more to do with the defective spring bushings myself....

[MudMutt]

 

.

I have the same issues ... When I punch it off the line I get a slight shudder in first gear. When I am doing like 60 mph and let off the gas I also get a slight shudder. It's not real bad but feels a lot worse when you pay 45k for a new vehicle and it does shit like this.

 

I am gone to live with it for now cause I don't want my brand new truck ripped apart at the dealer looking for the issue. When I schedule my next oil change, I am going to ask them to rebalance the tires and go from there. Maybe I will get lucky.

 

 

 

Edited December 17, 2014 by MudMutt

[Colossus]

 

then again, maybe you are just a GM rep trying to do some sort of damage control

You've been smoking a bit too much pot, son.

[keakar]

You've been smoking a bit too much pot, son.

your posts prove otherwise

[Tqjunkie]

You know.. It's strange how I've gone to a Chevy and GMC dealership that are right next to each other (owned by sepearate companies) and when I asked the service advisors regarding issues with the new 2014 Silverado/Sierra, they both have said aside from the recalls, they see very few issues with them thus far. When asked about the "shake/vibration" issues, both looked at me with a "what are you talking about?" type of look and said they have yet to see one come in for issues described as that save for an ocasional out of balance issue that is usually a result of the owner hitting a curb or something. Thus far we have 254 pages on this topic, and I am guessing maybe 200 if even that many people have said they have the shake/vibe issue on this forum alone. Since most folks will take to the internet to do a search on a issue and this topic would certainly be at the top of the search engine results, I think if this was a wide spread problem like a few on here seem to think it is, we'd be seeing a lot more activity here. The issue is not happening to every 2014 GM truck like some think it is and act as though it is. I'm no statistic person, but I truely wonder just how many people have this issue, out of all the 2014 Sierras and Silverados that have been sold

Just from what I have experienced over the years when purchasing new vehicles from trucks to snowmobiles to atv's whenever I have had a problem with any of them and it is a well known problem with the product the dealer of the product has never heard of the the problem and gives you the I have no idea what you are talking about look,but rest assured they know exactly what you are talking about,it is in there own best interest not to admit there is any problems with there product obviously,I have a good truck with no vibration and I thank my lucky stars for that but I certainly feel for these owners that have the problem because I know I have been in there shoes before and it is a helpless feeling for sure.

Edited December 17, 2014 by Tqjunkie

[14silverado4.3]

It is not just the Silverados, I had a 2015 Suburban 2WD that had the shakes. AFM was a nightmare on that thing with the vibration at cruise in V4 on the highway, any little throttle input that did not kick it into V8 would shake the crap out of the vehicle. Made me happy to get back to the silverado. Where will it end???

 

It was a rental with 15,000 miles

Edited December 17, 2014 by 14silverado4.3

[310racing]

Tonight, I'm gonna open the diff and check the backlash and circumvent all the road force/balancing/wasted time.

If the backlash is within tolerance, I'll put a set of tires on it, and do a few other mods I have been putting off.

 

In the last couple weeks, my vibration has all but went away. 43-48mph steering wheel vibe.

 

I know someone posted before, the backlash specs. I found 5-7 ten thousandths, .0007 being the max....does this sound correct?

Tonight, I'm gonna open the diff and check the backlash and circumvent all the road force/balancing/wasted time.

If the backlash is within tolerance, I'll put a set of tires on it, and do a few other mods I have been putting off.

 

In the last couple weeks, my vibration has all but went away. 43-48mph steering wheel vibe.

 

I know someone posted before, the backlash specs. I found 5-7 ten thousandths, .0007 being the max....does this sound correct?

[Silverado 6.2]

Tonight, I'm gonna open the diff and check the backlash and circumvent all the road force/balancing/wasted time.

If the backlash is within tolerance, I'll put a set of tires on it, and do a few other mods I have been putting off.

 

In the last couple weeks, my vibration has all but went away. 43-48mph steering wheel vibe.

 

I know someone posted before, the backlash specs. I found 5-7 ten thousandths, .0007 being the max....does this sound correct?

Tonight, I'm gonna open the diff and check the backlash and circumvent all the road force/balancing/wasted time.

If the backlash is within tolerance, I'll put a set of tires on it, and do a few other mods I have been putting off.

 

In the last couple weeks, my vibration has all but went away. 43-48mph steering wheel vibe.

 

I know someone posted before, the backlash specs. I found 5-7 ten thousandths, .0007 being the max....does this sound correct?

It would be .007 not .0007 If I remember right

Edited December 17, 2014 by Silverado 6.2

[Pepeag]

We have owned a 2013 Silverado 150 extended cab 5.3L 2WD and 20" Good Year Wrangler tires for 22 months. The 6-speed auto was a vast improvement over our 08 Sierra 4-speed.. Just after our first tire rotation and wheel balance, we got onto the highway and noticed the front end shaking. We immediately returned to the dealer and had the wheel balances checked. It was determined that the load force on one front tire was considerably out of specs. It was not noticeable on the rear, but we have Firestone Ride-Rite air bags on the rear for hauling a cargo trailer. The service department suggested replacing the tire (at our expense). We didn't give it a thought that it should have been covered under warranty and we paid for a new tire. That basically took care of the severe shaking. But we have noticed that it was not a really smooth ride even on a newly paved blacktop. We replaced the Sierra tires with Bridgestone and had very good results. If we replaced the tires on the Silverado, we would go with Michelin.

 

So, this forum has brought up a couple of questions. Is it worth the gamble to move "up" to a '14 or '15 Silverado or Sierra and get a 4WD and all-wheel disc brakes or wait until GM gets their act together? If we do decide to trade, will it be with the same dealer who neglected to suggest the tire should be under warranty?

 

One other thought that came to mind on front end shaking. On our '08 Sierra, we had a problem with the front brake calipers. On light braking, the front would shudder slightly. On downhill braking, the shudder was more pronounced. We took it to the dealer before a long road trip hauling a fully loaded cargo trailer. We were told there was nothing wrong with the brakes. On a steep decline in the hills around Chattanooga, even though we had trailer brakes, the front end shook violently-so much so that we thought the bug shield was going to break off of the hood. Believe me, that was a white knuckles ride to the bottom. The dealer at the other end of the road trip said that GM had a bad run of rotors/pad that would warp with heat of braking and resume near normal when cooling. They replaced both rotors and pads at no charge. We had perfect braking after that.

 

The reason that I bring up brake rotors is that if the pads are too close to the rotors and the rotors are warped, they may be engaging enough to cause the shudder similar to a wheel balance. With the new integrated braking systems, this could be a problem.

 

As for Dodge and Ford, we have had both in the past. The '02 Dodge Quad cab was extremely bad on gas and had engine sludging faults and cracked dashboards that Chrysler did not view as a problem. Ford has its own problems.

[310racing]

It would be .007 not .0007 If I remember right max of .012

Thanks.

 

typed an extra 0, my bad

[Silverado 6.2]

Thanks.

 

typed an extra 0, my bad

when checking the backlash you should check every tooth all the way around also

[tbarn]

Tonight, I'm gonna open the diff and check the backlash and circumvent all the road force/balancing/wasted time.

If the backlash is within tolerance, I'll put a set of tires on it, and do a few other mods I have been putting off.

 

In the last couple weeks, my vibration has all but went away. 43-48mph steering wheel vibe.

 

I know someone posted before, the backlash specs. I found 5-7 ten thousandths, .0007 being the max....does this sound correct?

Tonight, I'm gonna open the diff and check the backlash and circumvent all the road force/balancing/wasted time.

If the backlash is within tolerance, I'll put a set of tires on it, and do a few other mods I have been putting off.

 

In the last couple weeks, my vibration has all but went away. 43-48mph steering wheel vibe.

 

I know someone posted before, the backlash specs. I found 5-7 ten thousandths, .0007 being the max....does this sound correct?

 

1. Hold the drive pinion stationary and move the ring gear back and forth.
2. Repeat the measuring procedure at each tooth around the ring gear.
3. The difference between the backlash at all of the measuring points should not vary by more than 0.05 mm (0.002 in).
4. If the difference between the backlash at all of the measuring points varies by more than 0.05 mm (0.002 in), inspect for burrs, a distorted case flange or uneven bolting.
5. If the difference between all the measuring points is within specifications, the backlash at the minimum lash point measured should be 0.08-0.25 mm (0.003-0.010 in) with a preferred backlash of 0.13-0.18 mm (0.005-0.007 in).

[pm26]

In addition checking the backlash, it is also advisable to check the tooth contact pattern. Special paste is available for that purpose. I hope the linked file will be of help.

 

http://www.roadranger.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@roadranger/documents/content/shais-168.pdf

Edited December 17, 2014 by pm26