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My turn to join this never ending issue. Took my 2014 sierra 1500 cc ltz in for it's 2nd visit today to look at steering wheel vibrations. Problem has been there since new and had rf balancing on tires done at 500 miles, mechanic said it felt fine after. Sorry felt exactly the same, vibration starts at 45 mph and continues to 55mph but only in the steering wheel. Does anyone remember if there was a fix for this type of vibration, sorry not enough time to read through all 212 pages for ideas. Presently at 1900 miles and curious what dealer will try and say this time.

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My turn to join this never ending issue. Took my 2014 sierra 1500 cc ltz in for it's 2nd visit today to look at steering wheel vibrations. Problem has been there since new and had rf balancing on tires done at 500 miles, mechanic said it felt fine after. Sorry felt exactly the same, vibration starts at 45 mph and continues to 55mph but only in the steering wheel. Does anyone remember if there was a fix for this type of vibration, sorry not enough time to read through all 212 pages for ideas. Presently at 1900 miles and curious what dealer will try and say this time.

If the problem is just in the steering wheel it's probably tire related. Either out of round or balance. Try having them road force balanced with someone who knows how to road force. A good tech who knows road force balancing can get it spot on. 4 years back, I had a shake in my steering wheel, had tires road force balanced and they still had a shake. I brought them to another shop to have them road force balanced and "voila" the shake was gone. This guy was a wiz at road force balancing. He rotated the tires on the rims at a time to get the best balancing on the worse ones. The guy at the first shop didn't do anything like that and probably didn't know what he was doing. It all has to do with the tech and him calibrating the machine, and installing the weights in the correct locations.

 

The road force machine also detects side to side wobbling in addition to vertical vibrations so the tech can know whether the weights should be on the inside, middle, or outside edge of the wheel. Doing this also eliminates the directional pull of the tire, in addition to eliminating vibration. The road force machine puts a roller on the tire with about 1400 pounds of force which is somewhat close to the weight that will actually be on the tire. Road force checks radial and lateral forces and is more accurate than standard balancing. The key is to find a good tech to do it right.

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Fishing Bear

Can you tell me what "final repair attempt" means and who decides it is the final attemt. I,m going through the same crap and actually just filed with the BBB. today 10-06-2014. Would like to know if I or you need to sign on with a lemon law attorney or has GM. been trying not to "LEMON UP' the titles. Some where through these 216 pages I read that they would rather do buy backs BEFORE the title gets trashed. Any advice will be appreciated by me and all in the same " proffessional grade boat".

Signed shakey still shakey Hey! but shakey is the new 'NORMAL OPERATING AS DESIGNED'.

 

I filed a defect notice (lemon law) in July with GM after my truck had been in for 5 repair attempts and had been at the dealer for a total of 27 days. I had multiple sets of new tires installed, a new driveshaft, and "adjustments" made to the rear end. After they received my notice my case was escalated to their mitigation department and they scheduled the final repair attempt. I dropped it off and picked it up two days later - once I got on the highway on the way home it started to shake so I called back to the GM mitigation department and said it still shakes and that I was not satisfied. About a week later they approved a buyback. I drove 5 trucks that all shook worse than mine. GM then offered to order a 15 for me. It just came in last week and I'm waiting for the paperwork to be finalized. I dealt with the shaking truck for 8 weeks while they tried to fix it and have waited another 10 weeks during the buyback process.

 

My recommendation is to remain professional but firm. You need to maintain a good relationship with your dealer and service manager because they are going to be your best advocate.

 

Good luck.

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Can any of you post a video from the interior on what the shake/vibration looks like? At highway speeds, 65+, I feel like I'm riding on a sharp bouncy road SOMETIMES but just don't know if it's all in my head and it's due to the sensitivity of the z71 suspension plus the 20" wheels don't help. Seeing a video of what people are experiencing will help me determine if my ride is normal. Thanks!

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If the problem is just in the steering wheel it's probably tire related. Either out of round or balance. Try having them road force balanced with someone who knows how to road force. A good tech who knows road force balancing can get it spot on. 4 years back, I had a shake in my steering wheel, had tires road force balanced and they still had a shake. I brought them to another shop to have them road force balanced and "voila" the shake was gone. This guy was a wiz at road force balancing. He rotated the tires on the rims at a time to get the best balancing on the worse ones. The guy at the first shop didn't do anything like that and probably didn't know what he was doing. It all has to do with the tech and him calibrating the machine, and installing the weights in the correct locations.

 

The road force machine also detects side to side wobbling in addition to vertical vibrations so the tech can know whether the weights should be on the inside, middle, or outside edge of the wheel. Doing this also eliminates the directional pull of the tire, in addition to eliminating vibration. The road force machine puts a roller on the tire with about 1400 pounds of force which is somewhat close to the weight that will actually be on the tire. Road force checks radial and lateral forces and is more accurate than standard balancing. The key is to find a good tech to do it right.

I not sold on the tires.. They road forced mine multiple times, indexed, and then finally ended up changing them all out for bridgestone duelers which road forced at 8.. I still have the vibration. The problem has to be further up the drive line in the transmission along with some frame beaming on top of it.

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I filed a defect notice (lemon law) in July with GM after my truck had been in for 5 repair attempts and had been at the dealer for a total of 27 days. I had multiple sets of new tires installed, a new driveshaft, and "adjustments" made to the rear end. After they received my notice my case was escalated to their mitigation department and they scheduled the final repair attempt. I dropped it off and picked it up two days later - once I got on the highway on the way home it started to shake so I called back to the GM mitigation department and said it still shakes and that I was not satisfied. About a week later they approved a buyback. I drove 5 trucks that all shook worse than mine. GM then offered to order a 15 for me. It just came in last week and I'm waiting for the paperwork to be finalized. I dealt with the shaking truck for 8 weeks while they tried to fix it and have waited another 10 weeks during the buyback process.

 

My recommendation is to remain professional but firm. You need to maintain a good relationship with your dealer and service manager because they are going to be your best advocate.

 

Good luck.

What was the deal they made you?.. Are you sure they "bought it" back or did they give you a "trade assist"? Usually if they buy it back they have to deem the truck a Manufacture buyback on the title and they are trying to avoid that like the plague. And also if they bought it back I think you have the option of taking your money back.

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Forgot to mention vibration only occurs when under load or on the gas not when coasting between 45-55 mph

 

 

Check to see if this is happening when your AFM switches to V4 mode.... I noticed this too and was told it had to do with the engine running on 4 cylinders.

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What was the deal they made you?.. Are you sure they "bought it" back or did they give you a "trade assist"? Usually if they buy it back they have to deem the truck a Manufacture buyback on the title and they are trying to avoid that like the plague. And also if they bought it back I think you have the option of taking your money back.

 

The deal was MSRP to MSRP. I haven't seen the final paperwork yet so I'm not sure if it's a buyback or trade assist. I really don't care what they call it as long as I don't have to pay anything to swap out this vibrating truck for a new one. The truck I ordered had the exact same options so the MSRP's are the same. I'll post the details after the deal is finalized.... unless they require me to sign something that keeps me from discussing it. I also don't expect to pay for the 8,500 miles I've put on it either but who knows. The dealer told me that when they do a buy back they usually don't try to get you for the miles.

Edited by Fishingbear
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I not sold on the tires.. They road forced mine multiple times, indexed, and then finally ended up changing them all out for bridgestone duelers which road forced at 8.. I still have the vibration. The problem has to be further up the drive line in the transmission along with some frame beaming on top of it.

Yea then if it's just with a load probably drive line related. Pinion angle or trans. Weird how it's just in the steering wheel.
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Hi all- I've been watching this post for a while now, since I bought my 50k vibrator a month ago- I've noticed a few things- the causes and few solutions seem to be all over the place; and the service techs seem to be reading the same script. So I think it's safe to say they DO know something is up. However the most recent post about aerodynamics made me speak up- I noticed my bed was about 1/2 off to the right side of the truck, viciously mounted by someone who needs glasses- regardless I actually emailed my service tech and asked him the same question; do you think it may be a aerodynamic issue? I noticed something else as we'll- there are "gaskets" in between the bed and the cab. I am wondering if these May be creating some sort of air compression causing the vibration we are all feeling. That would explain the on and off effect we are all (most of us) experiencing- as the truck turns, whether on the highway or not your air flow over and under the cab changes as the wheels causes turbulence which would allow for a vacuum to be created under and over the truck, relieving the pressure between the bed and the cab- when you straighten out the air pressure begins to resonate again crating a pressure bubble in that small space. I am going to see about taking off the gaskets and see if that makes a difference. In other news I also have the crappy tires and have had 1 replaced- and of course the dealership has NEVER had this complaint before....

Ill,post results soon. Good,luck to all!

Sorry for the typos- autocorrect on iPad and I don't feel like going back- hope you all get the idea!

Until someone removes the bed and drives the truck around this will continue to be speculation. Is your tech willing to remove the bed?

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