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Have a question after reading some of the earlier posts about rims actually spinning in the tire. I had my GY's replaced not long ago due to vibration (which did cure the problem for now) and noticed today that there is some kind of sticky glue like material on the edges of all of the rims. It did wash off with a little scrubbing but I have never seen this before. Is it common to have this when new tires are mounted? Or is this a way to stop the tire from slipping on the rim under heavy load or acceleration?

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Don't want to get too side tracked but knowing that a lot of you with your problems have replaced the tires with varying degrees of luck, this looks like a good time to ask for opinion if you were to get new tires to replace the stock tires, keeping the basic stock profile, what would you get in terms of good better best (and price wise)? Seems very relevant to this discussion.

Mine came with P275 55R20 Goodyear Wrangler SRA $143-$247 online.

Having raced bicycles when I was younger I remember that the smaller the profile and the higher the pressure the less friction and drag - the difference between coasting 20 feet softly and 200 feet feeling every grain of sand on the road, ride suffers but mileage should certainly benefit.

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Don't want to get too side tracked but knowing that a lot of you with your problems have replaced the tires with varying degrees of luck, this looks like a good time to ask for opinion if you were to get new tires to replace the stock tires, keeping the basic stock profile, what would you get in terms of good better best (and price wise)? Seems very relevant to this discussion.

Mine came with P275 55R20 Goodyear Wrangler SRA $143-$247 online.

Having raced bicycles when I was younger I remember that the smaller the profile and the higher the pressure the less friction and drag - the difference between coasting 20 feet softly and 200 feet feeling every grain of sand on the road, ride suffers but mileage should certainly benefit.

If you like having white lettering like i do you could get P275 55R20 Firestone Destination AT for around 225 a tire. I have them on my 6.2 crew 6.5box with max trailer pack and they ride good with 35-40psi in them and i also tow a 7500lb 28ft bumper pull camper and they do good.

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Have a question after reading some of the earlier posts about rims actually spinning in the tire. I had my GY's replaced not long ago due to vibration (which did cure the problem for now) and noticed today that there is some kind of sticky glue like material on the edges of all of the rims. It did wash off with a little scrubbing but I have never seen this before. Is it common to have this when new tires are mounted? Or is this a way to stop the tire from slipping on the rim under heavy load or acceleration?

 

Could be dried soap. I believe mechanics usually use a soapy water mixture to help the tires get on the rim. They do it for all tires. The fact that the Wrangler SR-A's rotate on the rim is probably a function of softer rubber on these cheap tires versus the weight and torque of the truck.

Don't want to get too side tracked but knowing that a lot of you with your problems have replaced the tires with varying degrees of luck, this looks like a good time to ask for opinion if you were to get new tires to replace the stock tires, keeping the basic stock profile, what would you get in terms of good better best (and price wise)? Seems very relevant to this discussion.

Mine came with P275 55R20 Goodyear Wrangler SRA $143-$247 online.

Having raced bicycles when I was younger I remember that the smaller the profile and the higher the pressure the less friction and drag - the difference between coasting 20 feet softly and 200 feet feeling every grain of sand on the road, ride suffers but mileage should certainly benefit.

 

 

If you like having white lettering like i do you could get P275 55R20 Firestone Destination AT for around 225 a tire. I have them on my 6.2 crew 6.5box with max trailer pack and they ride good with 35-40psi in them and i also tow a 7500lb 28ft bumper pull camper and they do good.

 

I had Destiation AT's on my 2007 Silverado and got 50,000 miles out of them. They were great overall but I had better traction on my BFGoodrich T/A's. If I were to change mine now I'd probably go all out and get Michelin LTX AT2's. My side mechanic swears by Michelin's and uses them exclusively on his vehicles. He's a smart dude I put a lot of faith in his opinion.

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On my 2010 Silverado I put on Nitto Crossteks and am very close to putting them on my 2014 Silverado. I was very impressed with them. Not bad price-wise either. If I k new for sure it would sollve the vibration I have, which I believe they will...I'd do it tomorrow. I just dont want to fele the rage if they dont solve it.

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One of us individuals that are on the fence about buying new tires needs to bite the bullet and go for it and let everyone know what happens. I'm not volunteering because I simply don't have the cash at the moment. If it works for someone else I may have more incentive to press the dealer about a replacement set with another brand. Worth a shot anyway.

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Well I seemed to have found the thread I was looking for... I have the same thing, my truck is at the dealer at this time. this is the second dealer i've tried. After reading all the post here I'm not expecting much results from them. I told them my concerns and it was like water rolling off a ducks back. I'm sure it's the same old storie they hear day in, day out. I am very dissapointed with my purchase of my 2014 siverado. Then to add insult to injury they put me in a equinox that had a big stain in the drivers seat. they had a porter try to clean it and could not get the stain out. Now i'm sitting on some plastic and I think I foud out what the stain was. "VOMIT" can you believe it.... The car stinks..

I have a Question for everyone that has had contact with "Jennifer" has she done anything to help any of your issues?

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One of us individuals that are on the fence about buying new tires needs to bite the bullet and go for it and let everyone know what happens. I'm not volunteering because I simply don't have the cash at the moment. If it works for someone else I may have more incentive to press the dealer about a replacement set with another brand. Worth a shot anyway.

So you are one of those guys who can afford a $ 52,300 truck, but cannot afford one with a $ 52,900 price tag.

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I have read about a few people who swapped tires and it corrected their issues....but there seems to be a few here that say they did try different tires with no change at all so, it could be a crap shoot?

 

I have swapped tires with no luck. I have the 70+ vibration in the rear (seats and console). Steering wheel is smooth, rear shakes and rear tires have been road force balanced 3 times, both tires under 13#. I am going to try to swap the rears to the front and see if the vibration moves with it, if not, its definitely not tires.

 

Seems to me a driveshaft balance or even driveline check from a reputable shop would be the more cost effective route at first before tires for those who are on the fence. I got quoted $100 from a local place. Seems like a good first step which nobody has done yet.

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So you are one of those guys who can afford a $ 52,300 truck, but cannot afford one with a $ 52,900 price tag.

 

Um not sure what you're trying to say here. If you think tires cost $600 you haven't bought tires for a truck before that aren't made by children in China.

 

As for the price of my truck, if I could afford $52,000+ I wouldn't be on this forum worrying about dollars. As it is, the MSRP on my truck was $43k. After incentives and trade-in, I paid $27k out the door.

 

And no I don't have $1100 lying around to just throw at some tires and hope it fixes the problem.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
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I have swapped tires with no luck. I have the 70+ vibration in the rear (seats and console). Steering wheel is smooth, rear shakes and rear tires have been road force balanced 3 times, both tires under 13#. I am going to try to swap the rears to the front and see if the vibration moves with it, if not, its definitely not tires.

 

Seems to me a driveshaft balance or even driveline check from a reputable shop would be the more cost effective route at first before tires for those who are on the fence. I got quoted $100 from a local place. Seems like a good first step which nobody has done yet.

Which tires did you swap to? Did you swap to new GY or a different brand..just curious.

The reason I think my problem is tires is..they replaced one front and one rear with new GY tires, and my problem all but disappeared...but seems to slowly coming back. I will say that temo plays a huge role in my 70 plus vibration. This am was only 48 degrees, and I could drive along at 72 73 and have a very nice ride. The problem is, when it warms up my shake comes back so I'm thinking tires for my own issue. I think a drive train issue would be there regardless of external temp. I'm very close to biting the bullet and putting 4 new Nittos on there! I may see if the service manager will help me out and take back my GYs or offer to install another make of tire first.

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Which tires did you swap to? Did you swap to new GY or a different brand..just curious.

The reason I think my problem is tires is..they replaced one front and one rear with new GY tires, and my problem all but disappeared...but seems to slowly coming back. I will say that temo plays a huge role in my 70 plus vibration. This am was only 48 degrees, and I could drive along at 72 73 and have a very nice ride. The problem is, when it warms up my shake comes back so I'm thinking tires for my own issue. I think a drive train issue would be there regardless of external temp. I'm very close to biting the bullet and putting 4 new Nittos on there! I may see if the service manager will help me out and take back my GYs or offer to install another make of tire first.

 

I swapped to Cooper Discoverer ATP's. I do agree that if temp plays a role it has to be tires. One member said he marked the rim and tire in the same spot with a grease pencil, and a few days later after driving it for a while, the 2 marks were not in the same spot anymore, indicating the tire had rotated on the rim which threw the balance off again and again.

 

I would go ahead and try and get some trade value on the tires before you get too many miles on them or sell them on Craigslist. Even if your vibration isn't solved by the new tires, it will ride a whole lot better under 70mph and you have eliminated a factor.

 

To be honest though, I still have a suspicion that the new tires. Once I swap the rear to front that will confirm it for me or not, and I can go from there.

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Well I got the updated exhaust ordered yesterday so hopefully that will take care of the drone/vib when in V4 mode. Also my dealer got a high country with a 6.2 in so im going to drive it to see if it has the same hard acceleration vibration that mine does when its in the mid range of first gear and if it does I probably wont worry about it but if it doesn't then there will be a hunt to figure out what it is. Thinking it could be engine mounts comparing it to some other people having a shim put in. I guess I just don't know what good a shim would do on hydraulic engine mounts unless it straightens up the angle of the engine/tranny to the rear end

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Have a question after reading some of the earlier posts about rims actually spinning in the tire. I had my GY's replaced not long ago due to vibration (which did cure the problem for now) and noticed today that there is some kind of sticky glue like material on the edges of all of the rims. It did wash off with a little scrubbing but I have never seen this before. Is it common to have this when new tires are mounted? Or is this a way to stop the tire from slipping on the rim under heavy load or acceleration?

I had Good year LS2s and they would vibrate. .had them balanced and vibration woukd appear to go away for a short time then come back.. finally got 1 tire replaced under warranty amd vibratiin was gone for a couple hundred miles then came back... bought Hancook Dynapro ATm in 305/50R20s and ride coukdnt be better.. they are a xl tire and a re rated for 3069lbs I believe... looks great rides great and even make the stoxk chrome 20s look astronomically better..couldn't stand them before and was planning on buying new rims..now ill keep them! Tires were 1300 installed and worth every penny!!! And even got a 3yr road hazzard plan free.

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