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They are working up numbers as we speak, they havent told me for sure, but Im not paying a dime out of pocket for the exact same truck. Ill leave my other in the shop first until every nut and bolt has been replaced, they can decide whats more cost effective.

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I would get a lawyer if I were you, I did the buy back program and they did not charge me one cent.

 

how many miles did you have. I am not optimistic at all. Did you swap for the exact truck with same msrp? Im only prepared to pay the difference for any extra option it may have over my old one and thats it.

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how many miles did you have. I am not optimistic at all. Did you swap for the exact truck with same msrp? Im only prepared to pay the difference for any extra option it may have over my old one and thats it.

I can't remember how many miles I had, but that wasn't an issue at all. I did pay a little extra because I got a higher model thinking it would be better to only find out it was a waste of money.

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I would get a lawyer if I were you, I did the buy back program and they did not charge me one cent.

GM gave me 5 k "trade in assistance" cash towards the purchase of a new truck to help with the negative trade equity on the first 14. Its like a week long process though
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I will write a reply after my deal is over soon. Let's say 5k is a low offer, depending on state laws. A buy back is a lemon law claim, trade in assistance if the vehicle issues meet the requirements should be handled in the same way. Honestly trade in assistance cash should be on par or night than a full but back as the dealer and GM profit from the second sale whereas a buy back they do not. Certain states also require even during a lemon claim that you pay mileage and it's published. Your guys can PM me for details on how I did mine, but before you start the process first make sure your vehicle has hit the lemon statue, otherwise your buy back offer could be lower and you not have a lot to work with.

Edited by Trackermi
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Also, you trade assistance cash should be a reflection to the trade offer and purchase price of identical replacement . Remember GM has limited control over a dealership so if they offer low trade, you need to increase the buy back. But be fair about it and all should work out

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I decided to run my hands over the sidewalls of my tires just to see what I would feel. There's a lot of depression spots on all tires. Not sure if that's normal or not I've never really felt tire sidewalls that closely before but it doesn't seem normal. Anyway just throwing more information out there that I come across.

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I used to notice a big difference comparing my ride into work vs ride home. They did replace two of my GYs and things were MUCH better, but not perfect...although I still had the original GY tires on there. Im very close to just buying 4 new Nittos and getting an alignment done. The only thing stopping my is , what if I dont see and feel a difference? My feelings were always that if temp had a effect...it had to be tires. This was informally proven on mine by swapping 2 tires.

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I used to notice a big difference comparing my ride into work vs ride home. They did replace two of my GYs and things were MUCH better, but not perfect...although I still had the original GY tires on there. Im very close to just buying 4 new Nittos and getting an alignment done. The only thing stopping my is , what if I dont see and feel a difference? My feelings were always that if temp had a effect...it had to be tires. This was informally proven on mine by swapping 2 tires.

 

You just described my thought process over the past week. Based on the effects of temperature it has to be tires right? But like you I don't wanna drop $1,000 and then find out I was wrong either. I'm like 70% sure it's the tires but that's not enough for me to pull the trigger. If I do though I'm definitely getting Michelin AT2's. I want BF Goodrich all terrains but they don't make an 18" rim version in the lower light truck load range. But hell you can't go wrong with Michelin's ever so they wouldn't be a bad 2nd choice by any stretch. Either way though I'm definitely doing an alignment tomorrow. My side mechanic told me to do that from day one....he's a former GM dealer mechanic and told me they don't do alignments on these trucks when they build them, they just use plastic tabs to set the alignment to pre-determined points. I'm noticing slightly more outer wear on my front tires than my last truck so I'm guessing an alignment is needed.

 

Also it's not the road surface because I drove home for lunch. So 12 noonish felt smoother than 5 pm-ish traveling the same stretch of highway. Gotta be tires.......I hope!

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
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Here is something to consider: Are you sure the wheels on these trucks are hub centric? Hub centric means that the center hole is exactly in the middle of the wheel and the wheel can be properly mounted on the balancer by using cetnering cones. In the past there have been a few vehicles where the wheels were not hub centric and it was virtually impossible to balance the wheels properly by using centering cones alone. Special adapters were required.

 

Let assume that these GM wheels are hub centric, but they were made by a low bidder and the hole is not properly centered in the middle. This will cause all kinds of balancing issues and no matter how good the tires are you would never be able to balance the wheels right. This is why I recommended finding a tire shop that has Haweka flange adapters that mout the wheel on the balancer using the lug nut holes. This way you at least can be sure that the wheels be mounted properly on the machine, which is a requirement for proper balancing. I no longer have much faith in GM quality. Their clearcoated wheels on two of my vehicles were so poorly finished that they corroded only a few months later.

 

And as I have discovered myself, the bigger the wheels the more difficult they are to balance correctly. It seems that it takes three tries to balance the 18" wheel on my Impala every time and it really annoys me. And it is amazing how much difference will even one improperly balanced wheel make.

Edited by pm26
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Well mine goes back to the shop for the third time to find the vibration. They will be putting sensors on the truck to find the vibration so maybe I will get some answers in a couple of days. They already balanced the tires and rebalanced and replaced one rear tire and no change as of yet. Amazing that this happening with all the technology that these companies have that they can't find something that is shaking the truck and its definetly in the rear because the front is smooth.

Ok People here is my update. After sitting in the shop for 3 days for them to troubleshoot, they did the sensors on the seat rails, pulled wheels and tires off other trucks, checked the alignment and then at the end of the day they replaced the Goodyear with Bridgestone's and changed the condition but the vibration isn't gone and they told me there is nothing they can do. I am so pissed off and don't know what to do. Had previous contact with some people in General Motors but they don't want to return phone calls. I said this before and I don't think they care or realize that GM is really, really, really testing my loyalty and I am thinking it might be time to try another brand. I have been buying GM vehicles only for 29 years and this is the first time I have even thought about going somewhere else. Hopefully I can deal with problem for a while so I can recover some of the money I am going to lose going to a different brand. I still love the truck just tired of paying for it and not driving it. Good luck to others that have this annoying vibration.

Edited by MikeySierra
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Well gotta cancel my alignment......something came up at work and I can't make it. I think I'm going to hold off for a bit anyway. I'm pretty positive these Wrangler SR-A tires are garbage and causing my steering wheel shimmy. I'm going to drive on them for a few more months to get some bills behind me and save a little money and then I'm going to get Michelin's and do an alignment then. These stock tires are garbage just looking at them and feeling them. Soft rubber compound that is wearing down quickly, you can feel depressions all over the side wall, and they're passenger rated tires when these trucks should have light truck (LT) tires on them at a minimum. Anyway I'll probably upgrade the tires this fall before winter hits.

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Quick question for you guys.... Is the warranty voided when we lower/lift the trucks? I am heading to the motor city West in Bakersfield CA for the vibration/humming in the rear when going hwy speeds.. Much input is appreciated

 

Sent from my LG-D950 using Tapatalk

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Quick question for you guys.... Is the warranty voided when we lower/lift the trucks? I am heading to the motor city West in Bakersfield CA for the vibration/humming in the rear when going hwy speeds.. Much input is appreciated

 

Sent from my LG-D950 using Tapatalk

As I understand it, for the warranty to be voided they have to be able to prove that the modification caused the problem. In the case of a lower/lift kit, the only way to prove they did not cause the problem is to return the truck to stock and see if the problem still exists. I'm not sure who would be willing to go down that road.......

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