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You should of heard some of the BS the tech was first saying.

 

"I couldn't feel the vibration. I'm betting it's the nature of the beast. These trucks are so sensitive to the road, you feel everything. "

 

That last one had me good. My camaro feels everything in the road, not the truck. Of course another hilarious thing is the whole time he is explaining to me why the vibration isn't in the driveline (only feel it in steering wheel, no other vibration, blah blah blah) - we get back to the lot and he says "I'm thinking driveshaft." I had to hold back a laugh, your telling me you spent ten minutes defending why it's not in the driveline to turn around and tell me you think it is?

 

I'll drive the damn thing through the showroom floor if I don't like the outcome of this!

 

 

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See if you can go back and look at my entry. I had vibration on the hands and they fixed it. I have a list of what they did down to the parts it took. Tires and vibration dampeners. Road force balance is important. GM will not help. The dealer at this point is the only friend you have. If they do not help, go to a different one.

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Well I'm happy to report that I think it was my tires. I picked up my truck this evening and the rep told me they had to road force balance my tires and found one that needed adjusting. On the ride home I noticed a major improvement. And this is after I adjusted the psi a couple weeks ago and that helped then which initially had me thinking it was the tires. So I'm definitely going to a specialist next week to get a proper alignment done. Other than that I'll just keep the tires balanced and rotated and run these for a while to save some money until I can put Michelins on.

 

They were unable to fix my shifting driver seat so I'll probably go to another dealer on that. And the MyLink display is flickering again after over 2 months of working fine and thinking they had fixed it. This truck.....one day at a time. It's a love-hate relationship.

I'm not a fan of tire rotations but if you do it I suggest front to back rotations, criss-crossing just invites trouble.

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I'm not a fan of tire rotations but if you do it I suggest front to back rotations, criss-crossing just invites trouble.

 

I have to respectfully disagree man. You absolutely should rotate your tires if you want long tire life and even tire wear. I've always followed the rotating scheme in the manual which is rear tires move to the front but stay on the same side of the vehicle, and the front tires switch sides AND move to the back. I've been doing that since my first truck (Dodge Dakota) back in 2004 and have always had nice even tire wear and long tire life on that truck and my 2007 Silverado that the 2014 replaced.

 

In the case of my 2014 Silverado, I think it definitely needs an alignment because I'm starting to notice a slight uneven tire wear on the front tires. But the proper PSI and balancing has helped. An alignment will make sure the tires wear evenly and settle back down even further.

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See if you can go back and look at my entry. I had vibration on the hands and they fixed it. I have a list of what they did down to the parts it took. Tires and vibration dampeners. Road force balance is important. GM will not help. The dealer at this point is the only friend you have. If they do not help, go to a different one.

 

When you say hands, did you mean the vibration was in the steering wheel, or were you experiencing a rear vibraiton (seats and console). Thanks!

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I have to respectfully disagree man. You absolutely should rotate your tires if you want long tire life and even tire wear. I've always followed the rotating scheme in the manual which is rear tires move to the front but stay on the same side of the vehicle, and the front tires switch sides AND move to the back. I've been doing that since my first truck (Dodge Dakota) back in 2004 and have always had nice even tire wear and long tire life on that truck and my 2007 Silverado that the 2014 replaced.

 

In the case of my 2014 Silverado, I think it definitely needs an alignment because I'm starting to notice a slight uneven tire wear on the front tires. But the proper PSI and balancing has helped. An alignment will make sure the tires wear evenly and settle back down even further.

 

I agree on the alignment. I always take my new rides to my front end and tire shop friend for alignment check by some one I have faith in.

 

On the rotate tires yes and no. My friends shop trues and balances my tires on the truck. So if a wheel is removed it must be replaced on the same spot and same studs.

 

When I first started this years ago, my friend said do not worry about rotating the tires. With the truing and spot on wheel/tire on truck balance you will get the full mileage out of the tires. On my first set of LT LTX m/s on my 90 sub, I got over 100,000 miles.

 

My current LTXs are Ps and do not wear as well as the first LTXs or LTs That said, I am at about 58,000 now and look like they will go 70,000 with no problem. No rotation since first truing and balance when installed. Wear is even as back tires wear with traction and front with the steering.

 

If they were not trued and balanced on the truck, I would rotate. Also the truing and on truck balance prevents the uneven wear, cupping and noise you get on aggressive tires.

Edited by STex
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I have to respectfully disagree man. You absolutely should rotate your tires if you want long tire life and even tire wear. I've always followed the rotating scheme in the manual which is rear tires move to the front but stay on the same side of the vehicle, and the front tires switch sides AND move to the back. I've been doing that since my first truck (Dodge Dakota) back in 2004 and have always had nice even tire wear and long tire life on that truck and my 2007 Silverado that the 2014 replaced.

 

In the case of my 2014 Silverado, I think it definitely needs an alignment because I'm starting to notice a slight uneven tire wear on the front tires. But the proper PSI and balancing has helped. An alignment will make sure the tires wear evenly and settle back down even further.

 

No problem...I generally don't rotate unless there are some unusual wear patterns, otherwise I leave them be.

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I remember seeing the air pressure statements but don't remember what page (out of 102) that it was on. What pressure have you all found to be the best? 32psi as the door says? Reason I ask is because the new ones they installed yesterday are 35 or 36 psi and I can tell the difference in ride (harder). Thanks in advance for the info.

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Unless you are carrying a load, do what the door says.

 

And with regard to rotating tires, most shops are getting away from the X pattern and just going front to back. Unless you drive like a Grandma, I don't see how you can have the same wear front and back. Your rear tires don't turn like the fronts do.

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I remember seeing the air pressure statements but don't remember what page (out of 102) that it was on. What pressure have you all found to be the best? 32psi as the door says? Reason I ask is because the new ones they installed yesterday are 35 or 36 psi and I can tell the difference in ride (harder). Thanks in advance for the info.

 

 

Unless you are carrying a load, do what the door says.

 

And with regard to rotating tires, most shops are getting away from the X pattern and just going front to back. Unless you drive like a Grandma, I don't see how you can have the same wear front and back. Your rear tires don't turn like the fronts do.

 

Yeah go with what your door sticker says. Mine says 35psi though, not 32.

 

As for rotating tires, I prefer the X pattern. Tires will not wear evenly that's why they need to be rotated. Your front tires have more load on them then your rear tires right off the bat. On top of that, the front will wear differently from turning the wheels as well. In my opinion it's better to give the rear tires some time up front, and to switch sides every once and a while. To me this isn't old school logic like we see with 3,000 mile oil changes. This is a matter of physics. Anyway to each his own. That's what I prefer to do though.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
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^^^"I've always followed the rotating scheme in the manual which is rear tires move to the front but stay on the same side of the vehicle, and the front tires switch sides AND move to the back." That's what Michelin says on their web site...

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When you say hands, did you mean the vibration was in the steering wheel, or were you experiencing a rear vibraiton (seats and console). Thanks!

The vibration was in the steering wheel. Really did not notice any other. Got that fixed and then got a Range 8 from Range Tech to keep it in 8 cylinder. I am happy camper. Did you find the thread because I can scan and send you the repairs with part numbers if you like. Just message your info.

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Yeah go with what your door sticker says. Mine says 35psi though, not 32.

 

As for rotating tires, I prefer the X pattern. Tires will not wear evenly that's why they need to be rotated. Your front tires have more load on them then your rear tires right off the bat. On top of that, the front will wear differently from turning the wheels as well. In my opinion it's better to give the rear tires some time up front, and to switch sides every once and a while. To me this isn't old school logic like we see with 3,000 mile oil changes. This is a matter of physics. Anyway to each his own. That's what I prefer to do though.

Thanks everyone, I will go by the door sticker. Mine has 32 for front and back and 35 for spare. Yours are probably higher with the Z71. Appreciate it.

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The vibration was in the steering wheel. Really did not notice any other. Got that fixed and then got a Range 8 from Range Tech to keep it in 8 cylinder. I am happy camper. Did you find the thread because I can scan and send you the repairs with part numbers if you like. Just message your info.

 

I did actually find what part numbers you used, but unfortunately my steering wheel is smooth as can be and I am chasing a rear vibration down.

 

For anybody who needs it, this is what gdadlow had done for the steering wheel vibration:

 

Modified exhaust per TAC#71-1280001614

Four new Michelins Roadforce balance LF-16 RF-17 LR-15 RR-26

4 dampeners on exhaust. Vibration dampener mat per TAC #71-12880001614.

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For what it's worth--got an email from a lady at the dealership where I bought my truck. It was notifying me of a recall involving the transmission oil cooler connection.

 

I replied (no sarcasm implied):

 

"Is this a recall on the vibration?

Do you or anyone there know anything about that?"
Her response:
"No, this recall is for the connection of the transmission cooler lines to the transmission. A vibration is a characteristic of the 6 speed transmission."
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