Jump to content

HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit


Recommended Posts

Had the TRS kit in and working fine for a little over a month , 2 days ago I noticed sometimes my driver side bulb wouldn't come on and if I kept turning lamps on and off sometimes it would fire. I pulled the bulb out and the male connector from the hid bulb to the igniter was burnt up. I had a set of 9006 hids from my last truck and I put those bulbs in temporarily so I wouldn't have a light out. Today I realized the passenger side bulb was out, swapped everything from side to side with no luck. Ran out of time to mess with it so I just stuck the factory bulbs back in for now.

Little while ago I decided to hook everything up outside of the truck and test it all, and now it all works. Both bulbs light. Frustrating!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks! This should be pretty close, it might actually fit with the stock dust caps. Time to break out the credit card and start buying components :)

What are you retrofitting? You don't need to do anything to your dust cap other than a small hole in the back for a D2S to AMP adapter to go through. I have everyrhing bundled up on our website if you want to check that out. Buy it there or just use the components list and buy from TRS. Hope that helps.
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What are you retrofitting? You don't need to do anything to your dust cap other than a small hole in the back for a D2S to AMP adapter to go through. I have everyrhing bundled up on our website if you want to check that out. Buy it there or just use the components list and buy from TRS. Hope that helps.

I'll be working on a Sierra. My issue is that I do not prefer the look of dust caps that are drilled so I'm going a different route to have a more OEM appearing install. That and I'll need the spare headlight so I can fabricate my mounting bracket and work out the wiring harness details on my own time and minimize the downtown of my own car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hate to sound like a salesman but you do realize we have a kit with the bracket and everything included......lol. You really should use a straight D2S to amp adapter (IMO) so you don't have to wind the ballast wire around inside the back of the housing which preloads pressure on the projecotr and creates adjustment issues. Have done over 50 of these retrofits on the Sierra so I am simply speaking from personal experience and trial/error. I get what you are saying in regard to an oem looking dust cap, but the hole in the back (1.25inch) is filled with a grommet that comes with the D2s to amp adapter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hate to sound like a salesman but you do realize we have a kit with the bracket and everything included......lol. You really should use a straight D2S to amp adapter (IMO) so you don't have to wind the ballast wire around inside the back of the housing which preloads pressure on the projecotr and creates adjustment issues. Have done over 50 of these retrofits on the Sierra so I am simply speaking from personal experience and trial/error. I get what you are saying in regard to an oem looking dust cap, but the hole in the back (1.25inch) is filled with a grommet that comes with the D2s to amp adapter.

Do you have a bracket available for the RX350 non-AFS projector? The last time I searched around online all I found was one for the FX-R. The component way vs. a kit is better for me though because I always make my own harness so I can choose the electrical components and where they are placed. It's a lot more work, but I'm anal like that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, worked on thinning out the cap where we could to help with the price and it dropped more than I expected, so again thanks to member Jon A. He makes the Sierra caps and helped me to make it more cost effective.

I'm ordering one right now to check it out, plus I can get one matching the other side.
Edited by Crf450r420
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a thought and you may have already explored this, what about instead of making an entire cap just creating an extension ring that fits into the headlight and receives the original cap on the other end? I would imagine it would be much cheaper that trying to make the entire cap.

 

 

 

Okay, worked on thinning out the cap where we could to help with the price and it dropped more than I expected, so again thanks to member Jon A. He makes the Sierra caps and helped me to make it more cost effective.

I'm ordering one right now to check it out, plus I can get one matching the other side.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Install my Morimoto Sierra Spec kit from TRS, 55W 5500K. Everything fit great and so far works as it should. I was a little worried with people having issue with the start up sequence at night but so far so good. Light output is much better but still sucks compared to what a 50K truck should be. The 55W 5500K color matchs pretty close to my factory DRL LEDs. Only thing I'd change would be the length of the relay harness. I would have liked to hide it a little better but not long enough to still reach the ballasts. All and all if it keeps working as it should for at least a few years I'm happy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a thought and you may have already explored this, what about instead of making an entire cap just creating an extension ring that fits into the headlight and receives the original cap on the other end? I would imagine it would be much cheaper that trying to make the entire cap.

 

 

The whole inside is larger than stock. I couldn't go nuts because of the core support though. I did this to give LED lights a chance also. Couldn't test with them so I just made them all the room I could.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Install my Morimoto Sierra Spec kit from TRS, 55W 5500K. Everything fit great and so far works as it should. I was a little worried with people having issue with the start up sequence at night but so far so good. Light output is much better but still sucks compared to what a 50K truck should be. The 55W 5500K color matchs pretty close to my factory DRL LEDs. Only thing I'd change would be the length of the relay harness. I would have liked to hide it a little better but not long enough to still reach the ballasts. All and all if it keeps working as it should for at least a few years I'm happy.

I extended my leads on the longer one to run it up over the core support. The only part that can be seen are the relays.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.