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HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit


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Does anyone currently have a stock projector laying around they can measure for me? I am curious what the measurement is from the mounting points on the stock projector to the rear (without the bulb in it.) I'm trying to get a more exact idea of just how close/far my personal setup will be from using the stock dust cap. That way I can compare this measurement to the projectors/connectors I'm going to use so I'm more prepared before I open up the housing. Attached is an example to show the measurement that I am looking for. Thanks!

 

EDIT: And now that I think about it, an overall length would be nice to have as well.

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Edited by Dunc
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My layout of the OEM projector screw pattern. Note the two top holes are not centered per my measurements. I checked it twice. It's not much, but it's there. Measurements are from the centerline of the lens/bulb socket.

 

20150313_185708_zpsnbe4ftkb.jpg

Edited by spurshot
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Id be happy with flickers on and on maybe haha still trying to straighten out my kit FROM TRS been woorking on it off and on all week my goes unlock on, crank off/on but the passenger side doesnt refire back on talked to them again today and they told me to check the voltage coming from the relay. Im gonna check cuz i did the whole swap ballast thing. This weekend im gonna pull the whole kit out goe through it and install it starting from the driver side so at least the bad side wont be burried behind the airbox. And im gonna try and run it off thr driver side oem input.

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Basicly ill just flip the harness around leave the ballast where they are at to also check and make sure its not ballast. I dont known what else to try i grounded it to the radiator.i made a jumper ground to go to ths firewall. I tried other warning cancelers capacitors i had from old kits. It wont fire up the morimoto hid bulb on the passenger side and barely fires up an old cheap hid bulb.

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Or a Jatronix Voltage Sensitive Latching relay should do the trick

 

 

 

Voltage Sensitive Latching Relay - Model LR-13.5

On a lot of cars and motorcycles the headlights come on when the ignition switch is turned on. When the starter is engaged the power to the lights is removed or drops below the level needed by HID ballast. When the starter is disengaged, power is returned to the ballast(s). This quick on-off-on is acceptable for stock headlights but bad for HID bulbs and ballasts. This relay was design to prevent HID light(s) from coming on before the engine is started.

This relay works by measuring the voltage level of the headlight circuit. When the bike is off and the battery is good, the voltage at the battery should read around 12.8 volts. Once the bike is running, the voltage should be 14.2-14.8 volts. This relay is designed to 'trip' at 13.50 volts, +/- 1%. The relay activates with full force and is rated at 30 amps. Once tripped the relay will stay active down to a minimum of 5 volts, much like a standard automotive relay. It also includes a slight delay to prevent false triggers.

The relay also includes a override input that makes it possible to operate the lights with the engine off. The override only needs to be pulsed with + 11-15 volts to activate the relay.

The Voltage Sensitive Latching Relay can also be used for other accessories to prevent damage from voltage fluctuations during starting.

 

http://www.jatronx.com/products/voltage-sensitive-latching-relay/

 

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Ok, one problem is that it wont fire up the morimoto hid on the problem side at all but will a cheaper hid bulb. Bulb and ballast work fine on other side. Now its stange its the same problem i had with the cheaper kits and harness. But maybe the relay is bad and not getting voltage on thr passenger side? Also that voltage sensitivity relay, say it stops from the on off on. But now my truck when i unlock it turns on the lights, i know u can shut off that feature but would it be possible to leave that on and use this. I do like that my truck lights up everything when i approach it.

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