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HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit


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HI,

I have a 2015 Sierra SLT and was tired of the stock projectors as they were in adequate. I had GM install 'Bright Source' HID Kit & anti flicker harness. Lights will not turn on in the cold so I had Gm investigate it. They spent thousands of dollars in man hours diagnosing and 4 different HID kits later they were still having the lights fail to operate!. Has anyone else had this problem with their 2015 GMC that has the LED day time running lights on their SLT or Denali? Noe they are putting back the terrible stock bulbs and giving up even after they told me that other 2015 trucks seem to have no problems? HELP!!!!!

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Guys with DDM kits got a question for you. I've had my 55w DDM kit installed since the end of December and never had a problem with them. All of a sudden tho, I'm having intermittent firing issues. The past couple days have progressively gotten worse. When I leave for work, sun is starting to come up, but still dark enough to trigger headlights. I have the headlight icon on the dash on and both top and bottom LED strips are on, but my HID's wont fire, even if I try manually. After maybe 20 min or so I noticed they come on. Kinda strange.

 

Last night I was waiting to pickup my buddy at his hotel and I was in a covered parking garage. Same issue, all light indicators and LED strips were on, but no HID's. Go figure when I get home to try to work on them they come on. I checked the fuse and it looks good. Solid ground and connection to the battery. Do you think bumping up the Fuse by 5amp could help? That's really the only thing I can think of, other than maybe just changing the fuse. Fuse that came with the relay harness is 20amp.

 

Any ideas?

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Guys with DDM kits got a question for you. I've had my 55w DDM kit installed since the end of December and never had a problem with them. All of a sudden tho, I'm having intermittent firing issues. The past couple days have progressively gotten worse. When I leave for work, sun is starting to come up, but still dark enough to trigger headlights. I have the headlight icon on the dash on and both top and bottom LED strips are on, but my HID's wont fire, even if I try manually. After maybe 20 min or so I noticed they come on. Kinda strange.

 

Last night I was waiting to pickup my buddy at his hotel and I was in a covered parking garage. Same issue, all light indicators and LED strips were on, but no HID's. Go figure when I get home to try to work on them they come on. I checked the fuse and it looks good. Solid ground and connection to the battery. Do you think bumping up the Fuse by 5amp could help? That's really the only thing I can think of, other than maybe just changing the fuse. Fuse that came with the relay harness is 20amp.

 

Any ideas?

Check the relay. I noticed after taking mine out that my issue (which started the same as yours) was that my relay had gotten some water in it and started to rust out. Keeping the relay from moving and making a connection to turn on the HIDs. Sometimes it must've even pulled the relay back someone to shut off my lights. Not sure how it managed to do that but oh well.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Hey all, I installed Rough Country LED cubes as fog lights last summer. About 2 months ago I installed the retro fit source Sierra HID plug N Play kit. Now about 2 weeks ago I started having a problem where my truck while in gear and driving will just stall out. Every single time this has happened it has been while i was driving under 20MPH and breaking to come to a stop.

 

My question in all of this is... Would it be possible that the LED cubs and 35W HID kit while on at the same time are drawing to much power and causing my truck to short out/ stall out?

 

I realize this is a stretch and probably not the cause of the problem but I have had it at the shop twice now and they cant get the problem to replicate. It has happen 4 times in the last 3 weeks (3 of which have been in the last 1.5 weeks)

 

Thanks in advance for any input or suggestions.

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Check the relay. I noticed after taking mine out that my issue (which started the same as yours) was that my relay had gotten some water in it and started to rust out. Keeping the relay from moving and making a connection to turn on the HIDs. Sometimes it must've even pulled the relay back someone to shut off my lights. Not sure how it managed to do that but oh well.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Mike. I'll give that a shot. Didn't I see somewhere that you put your relay in a cup of sprite and that stripped the rust? Just trying to plan out my next move if I'm headed down the same road.

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Hey all, I installed Rough Country LED cubes as fog lights last summer. About 2 months ago I installed the retro fit source Sierra HID plug N Play kit. Now about 2 weeks ago I started having a problem where my truck while in gear and driving will just stall out. Every single time this has happened it has been while i was driving under 20MPH and breaking to come to a stop.

 

My question in all of this is... Would it be possible that the LED cubs and 35W HID kit while on at the same time are drawing to much power and causing my truck to short out/ stall out?

 

I realize this is a stretch and probably not the cause of the problem but I have had it at the shop twice now and they cant get the problem to replicate. It has happen 4 times in the last 3 weeks (3 of which have been in the last 1.5 weeks)

 

Thanks in advance for any input or suggestions.

There's no way it's pulling enough power to stall the truck out. That is maybe 25 amps max and I mean absolute max amperage pull. It is elsewhere in the trucks electrical system
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There's no way it's pulling enough power to stall the truck out. That is maybe 25 amps max and I mean absolute max amperage pull. It is elsewhere in the trucks electrical system

 

Thanks for the reassurance. As i said I highly doubted that was the problem. And i tied the LED lights into the stock fog light wiring so I now that is good. The HIDs are wired right into the battery so thats not shorting out anywhere.

 

I have seen a recall for up to 2013 Model year of a computer module having issues. but nothing for 14s. I really would like to avoid turning this into a lemon but I definitely dont feel safe driving my truck with this issue.

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Thanks for the reassurance. As i said I highly doubted that was the problem. And i tied the LED lights into the stock fog light wiring so I now that is good. The HIDs are wired right into the battery so thats not shorting out anywhere.

 

I have seen a recall for up to 2013 Model year of a computer module having issues. but nothing for 14s. I really would like to avoid turning this into a lemon but I definitely dont feel safe driving my truck with this issue.

Take it to another dealer. If they can't get it right, that may be your only option sadly
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Thanks Mike. I'll give that a shot. Didn't I see somewhere that you put your relay in a cup of sprite and that stripped the rust? Just trying to plan out my next move if I'm headed down the same road.

 

 

I used sprite cause that was all I had on hand and didn't feel like going to the store. I know my buddy and I compared sprite, 7-Up and coke all to remove rust and other corrosion off his battery on his tundra and the 7-up worked best. Might want to try that instead if you have it

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Take it to another dealer. If they can't get it right, that may be your only option sadly

 

 

This was the second dealership. The worst part is that the check engine light does not come on and it does not throw any codes. Just a phantom problem.

 

Thanks for all the help everyone.

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Well I gave up and got me some 9006 LED Headlights, While I won't get some better projectors or take apart my headlight assemblies. Am I like them. you get the 6k HID cool blue without the weird cross projection. Plus no more Ballast Warm up/Delay

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Check the relay. I noticed after taking mine out that my issue (which started the same as yours) was that my relay had gotten some water in it and started to rust out. Keeping the relay from moving and making a connection to turn on the HIDs. Sometimes it must've even pulled the relay back someone to shut off my lights. Not sure how it managed to do that but oh well.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My DDM kit has been flawless up until 2 weeks ago. Lost lights, found the fuse blown so I replaced and all was good for a few days. Lost both lights again and started troubleshooting only to find the relay corroded. The relay coil had opened so it was shot but the fuse was not blown this time. When I looked up the relay to order I notice DDM is well aware of corrosion with the relays, not covered by warranty, funny how they offer no protection for it or even mention this when you get the kit. I installed a new relay but tape sealed it and secured it vertically to the radiator support. I still do not understand how that much moisture is in that area as it seemed to be in a well protected location. I would recommend anyone with a DDM kit to check your relay contacts and tape seal the relay. It is also a big pain to lose your lights at night and have to return to stock while sourcing a relay. So I am getting a spare relay and the rigid fogs so I have drivability if there is another failure.

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My DDM kit has been flawless up until 2 weeks ago. Lost lights, found the fuse blown so I replaced and all was good for a few days. Lost both lights again and started troubleshooting only to find the relay corroded. The relay coil had opened so it was shot but the fuse was not blown this time. When I looked up the relay to order I notice DDM is well aware of corrosion with the relays, not covered by warranty, funny how they offer no protection for it or even mention this when you get the kit. I installed a new relay but tape sealed it and secured it vertically to the radiator support. I still do not understand how that much moisture is in that area as it seemed to be in a well protected location. I would recommend anyone with a DDM kit to check your relay contacts and tape seal the relay. It is also a big pain to lose your lights at night and have to return to stock while sourcing a relay. So I am getting a spare relay and the rigid fogs so I have drivability if there is another failure.

This happened to me on my 02 as well first time around. ALWAYS mount the relays vertical and use dielectric grease. Been 2 years since I've replaced and still look new!
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The harness wouldn't be that bad to build for people with the correct tools and access to the connectors, but anyone should be able to hand changing the relays and connector to a better setup with heat shirk connectors. Still use dielectric grease everywhere. I use these on EFI systems on boats and have had no issues when lots of dielectric is used. My theory is if I leave no open space by filling it all with dielectric, then there is no where water can ever get in. I will be changing over to this if I ever have any issues.

 

The relay with skirt and might connect to the double tabs provided in the kit if these aren't to wide.

http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-007794301-Weatherproof-Relay-Bracket/dp/B003TEO9GU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425228241&sr=8-2&keywords=hella+relay

 

The correct weather pack connector for this relay. Put dielectric in the connectors and on the silicone seal. You can wipe the extra off after connecting them together.

http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H84709001-Weatherproof-Relay-Connector/dp/B000VU9D0C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1425228635&sr=8-3&keywords=hella+relay

 

Heat shrink butt connectors. If you can crimp them without splitting the coating. You should have zero troubles with cutting into the harness.

http://www.amazon.com/Forney-54826-Connector-Shrink-14-16/dp/B009PHFNJC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1425228728&sr=8-4&keywords=heat+shrink+butt+connectors

 

Sure it sucks if you have to do this as they could put these quality parts on to start with for very little cost, but it would be much better to not lose your headlights. Making changing this out not that bad in comparison.

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