HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

[LongrangeLauber]

Definitely a coincidence

You think disconnecting my battery for 10 min. and hooking it back up would reset it and make it disappear? Weird how they would both so happen to need service when I installed HID's unless there's something up towards the bumper that I hit while pulling things apart.

 

Going to go back in and install the relay harnesses probably tomorrow

 

Sent while in 'Murica...

[Crf450r420]

The only way to compare one to the other is with real measurements of lux. A camera lies... different exposures will give variable results and mislead comparing pictures on the internet.

 

Nobody's lying. But it's like comparing fish pictures or deer horn pictures on the net. "...how big was he? BIG! Really BIG!"

 

"This big?"

I was thinking about this and if you use a DSLR or other camera with full controls and you set the settings all the same and use the same scene to light up. Then it should be possible to get a real visual comparison. Might not show a lot of difference if it's close, but large differences should be noticeable.

[Spurshot]

Shawn,

You're right. It will be a more objective comparison if you go to full manual control, set the camera on a tripod or shoot from the same location have the lights on the same wall, etc.. The guys that do this a lot over on HIDPlanet.com have this figured out pretty well. But comparing one guy's lights on the internet to another guy's lights halfway across the country with a picture taken with no consistency, is really not very telling.

[Ray@Paula]

2015 GMC Sierra Denali 2500HD Duramax

Installed my GMC Sierra Morimoto Elite HID System this past Monday. Spent about 1 1/2 hours between installing and taking pic's. Before I dive into my install with tips and pic's.......... I thank all of you for your help, advice and pic's for installing the HID's!

For those of you wondering if you can do this install..... Well, I'm no mechanic by any means..... all you need is a little common sense along with a couple tools. If you meet these demanding requirements then I say "Go for it!" You'll be happy that you did.

I went with the following 4300k 35w HID kit which made a night and day difference.GMC Sierra Morimoto Elite HID System - HID Systems from The Retrofit Source Inc

This is how our trucks should have came from the factory. The entire install went great like you have explained. For those of you getting ready to dive in, the pic's and comments are given in the same order as I installed them.

 

Pros:

Seems to be a high quality kit. (Will know in time)

Installation - Simple plug and play.

TRS - Extremely helpful staff...... just give them a call if needed.

 

Cons: Only one..... Harnesses could have been longer for more/better install options. The passenger side suffers the most. With that being said, I understand there are extensions available.

 

Step 1: Pre-test kit (Not necessary, but may save you time)

a) Remove headlight bulb cap (counterclockwise) on the drivers side.

b) Unplug halogen bulb and remove.

c) Lay out and plug in your HID kit across the top of your radiator cover. Plug in your drivers side HID bulb into the trucks bulb harness. With this kit there is one positive and three negative cables. Temporarily connect them to your battery accordingly. Test your lights with and without the engine running. In addition, check all other lights for proper working order. If all is working properly and your relay isn't buzzing and your lights aren't flickering you're good to dive in. If not, recheck all your connections.

 

Step 2: As a pre-caution I did the following;

a) Remove kit wiring and leave battery cables off your drivers side battery.

b) Remove negative battery post on passenger side.

 

Dive.... Dive.......

 

Step 3: Passenger side - Sensors and intake air tube.

a) Loosen intake air tube clamp.

b) Remove both the MAF (Mass Air Flow) and Intake sensor plugs.

As smart as I like to think I am... LOL...... I had a little trouble removing these two sensor plugs. I didn't realize that once you pull out the tab (see red one in pic.) you have to press down on the tab in the center and pull at the same time. Once you do that, it unplugs smooth as butter. I told you, I'm no mechanic......

 

 

Step 4: Airbox removal; This can be done by either removing whole or by removing the cover and filter first. I ended up removing the cover and filter when re-installing, I'll explain why later.

a) Lift up by giving it a tug due to it's rubber grommets in the base holding it in.

b) Twist off of the air tube once loose and remove.

 

 

Step 5: Remove Radiator Cover (Optional) Remove for running/hiding your harness across to the passenger side. Also needed if you use the fender support brackets for grounds as I did. There are 12 push pins in all that need to be pulled. If you take your time, you can do this within a minute or so....LOL

 

 

Step 6: Remove passenger side headlight bulb cap (counterclockwise)

There is a soft plastic protection cover over the cap. I removed the two upper side push pins and folded the cover down out of the way for easier installation. These pins came out a little hard, therefore I replaced them with similar type push pins that are used for the radiator cover. "This will make it easier down the road if I have to change the bulb."

A one inch hole needs to be drilled in the center of each cap for the bulb harness and grommet, therefore take both caps to a machine shop for drilling.....LOL

Actually, I started out with a 7/8" hole, but it was too small to pass the harness plug through. A 1" hole worked out perfect for both the plug and grommet. I used a step bit which worked flawlessly without side stepping. All this and I even held it in my hand while doing so.....

 

 

Step 7: Drivers side bulb harness;

a) Remove the end clip from the flat harness plug. This makes it easier for the plug to pass through the cap.

 

b) Pass through from the back side of the cap and replace clip.

c) Install grommet making sure it's smooth all the way around both sides of cap.

 

Grommet sealed perfectly with no silicone

 

Step 8: Bulb installation;

This is another thing most of you taught me. "Make sure it's seated properly." If not seated, your light will not be disbursed properly. Meaning, improper alignment and more than likely less light. This is common sense, but the metal on the housing is thin making it "very easy" to miss a tab;

 

Thin metal bulb tabs;

 

Bulb base not seated properly;

 

Bulb base seated properly;

 

Step 9: :snapp Plug it in man!! Put the cap on....

 

Step 10: Connecting the harnesses;

Since we're still hanging out on the drivers side, we might as well start plugging in the ballast, amp igniter, relay, capacitor link or can-bus (if it's not already). At this point I pretty much ripped off the way "smoked you" installed his kit..... don't tell him, please....... :friends

 

Step 11: Grounding points;

I grounded the drivers side ballast along with the capacitor link to the fender support bracket. Be sure to file/sand all sides for making a good contact. I also grounded the passenger side ballast in the same manner.

 

Step 12: Ballast, Amp Igniter, Relay and Capacitor Link placement.

 

Ballast attached to battery negative post and Amp Igniter attached with commercial grade Velcro.

** You can attach the ballast and/or the amp igniter to the fender wall if desired.

 

 

Step 13: Positive battery cable and harness run for passenger side;

a) Run the positive cable near the positive post on the battery. "Do not connect at this time."

b) As for the harness leading to the passenger side; I removed the windshield solvent tank bolt and slipped the cable down behind it. I then ran up and across the length of the orange trucks cable using cable ties. Re-install the bolt.

 

 

Step 14: Bulb Installation Passenger Side - Follow steps 7 through 9;

**Considerations before following steps 7 through 9;

The flat power connector is not used on the passenger side, therefore you can either;

a) Let it hang unplugged.

b) Cut and eliminate it from the harness all together.

c) My Method: Plug it into the existing trucks plug that was used for the halogen bulb. Take the other end and either shrink tube it or tape/tie it off.

I did this for a couple reasons.....

a)I didn't want to just let the plug dangle near the trucks power plug.

b) Plugging it in protects the trucks power plug.

**It's not a big deal in any of the above choices. It's just something I did since I had the shrink tube.

 

Step 16: Amp igniter installation;

Due to the harness not being long enough, you don't have much of a choice of placement. When you tie off the amp igniter do so as shown (on top of the trucks existing harness). If you tie it off on the side of the trucks harness, the airbox won't seat properly.

 

 

Step 17: Ballast installation;

The ballast is secured by a self tapping bolt through a raised type washer that's pressed on the rail support. Be sure to use a self tapping bolt that is only "slightly" bigger than the hole in the washer. If not, you may break this washer loose causing it to spin..... Like I did :newly

I installed the ballast "before" I reinstalled the airbox. The airbox went in, but it was a little tight getting past the ballast while putting it into position. With that being said, it wasn't a real struggle. Once the airbox is in place, there's only about 3/8" gap between it and the ballast.

You have a couple choices;

a) You can install the ballast first.

b) Do not install the ballast, but run its harness to the ballast location and tie it off temporally into position so it doesn't fall down during airbox installation (Step 18).

**If you do this, make sure you pre-install the self tapping screw that's used, then remove it. There isn't any room for a drill to run the screw once the airbox is in place. I would suggest mounting the ballast "after" installing the airbox.

 

 

Step 18: Airbox, filter, cover and air intake tube installation;

a) As shown below, there are three plastic posts with one of them being larger. Due to the larger post having thread type ridges, I found it easier to install by lining up the post (by feel, blindly) at the beginning of the slot. Once aligned, push down and slide the box into position. Now you can blindly feel one of the plastic posts and line it up with its grommet. Once aligned. simply press box into place. Note:This isn't as hard as it may sound.....This is really a simple process.

b) Install filter.

c) Work cover into position while at the same time connecting the air intake tube. Install the two cover screws.

d) Tighten clamp on air intake tube.

 

 

Step 19: Install both the MAF (Mass Air Flow) and Intake sensor harness plugs.

 

Step 20: Install radiator cover.

 

Step 21: Power

a) Install the trucks positive battery cable along with your HID kit positive cable.

b) Install the negative cables on each battery.

 

Step 22: Check headlight adjustment;

Each headlight can be adjusted independently up/down through an access hole through the radiator cover. All you need is a Phillips screwdriver.

 

I hope this helped you as much as everyone else here has for me.

Ahhh..... Now you can enjoy driving at night again. Ray

Edited December 26, 2014 by Ray@Paula

[jgedde]

I got half of my FX-R conversion done tonight... Vehicle is a 2014 Sierra 1500. Here are some pics of stock vs FX-R with 3Five ballasts and bulbs:

 

Front on view, stock vs FX-R (This isn't exactly a good photo. The iPhone doesn't do well with bright lights. The drivers side isn't that blinding or yellow in real life)

 

Low beams, stock vs FX-R (Driveway is not level so they look like they're slanted)

 

High Beams, stock vs FX-R (same reason for slant)

 

Cheers,

John

Edited December 26, 2014 by jgedde

[Crf450r420]

You'll be every happy with it. Hope to have new caps for this made in a reasonable amount of time.

I got half of my FX-R conversion done tonight... Vehicle is a 2014 Sierra 1500. Here are some pics of stock vs FX-R with 3Five ballasts and bulbs:

 

Front on view, stock vs FX-R (This isn't exactly a good photo. The iPhone doesn't do well with bright lights. The drivers side isn't that blinding or yellow in real life)

IMG_0222.JPG

 

Low beams, stock vs FX-R (Driveway is not level so they look like they're slanted)

IMG_0223.JPG

 

High Beams, stock vs FX-R (same reason for slant)

IMG_0224.JPG

 

Cheers,

John

[Spurshot]

You'll be every happy with it. Hope to have new caps for this made in a reasonable amount of time.

 

Shawn,

What caps?

[Crf450r420]

Replacement caps for the silverado to clear the new projector without cutting the back off. I want to just drill a small whole to do the wires like the peope doing HIDs in the stock projector or reflector lights. I have no clue what the GMC lights are like.

[corwest]

Replacement caps for the silverado to clear the new projector without cutting the back off. I want to just drill a small whole to do the wires like the peope doing HIDs in the stock projector or reflector lights. I have no clue what the GMC lights are like.

Update us when you figure something out I would be interested in what you come up with.

[Crf450r420]

Certainly will. After all the trouble of getting an extra stock part. Drawing it up with more room and getting it made. It only make since to help others in the same boat.

[ChevyTrucks_95]

I just ordered high and low HID bulbs for my 2014 Chevy Silverado. Has anybody ordered from strictlyhid.com?

[corwest]

Certainly will. After all the trouble of getting an extra stock part. Drawing it up with more room and getting it made. It only make since to help others in the same boat.

Yeah I ended up cutting the raised back off an extra pair and attaching them to the back of another set of caps. Looks ugly but works for now

[Crf450r420]

I did tape for now. VLED 3000 lumen

 

Got my fog lights on.

 

 

 

[jgedde]

OK folks. I finished my FX-R install this afternoon. I did have one major problem yesterday I didn't mention. As it turns out, my housing's stock projector mounting bosses were a tad too short. When I tightened the screws and admired my handiwork, I heard a pop after a few minutes. Looking at the lens, I saw immediately what happened: the lens cracked and a chunk came out. It looks like the cause was that the lens housing was being smushed up hard against the lens port in the housing.

 

I immediately called TRS and inquired if they had replacement lenses... Thankfully they did, and I had one overnighted! Shipping was more than twice the price of the lens replacement, but I got it today and completed the job.

 

What I ended up doing was gluing washers onto the stock bosses as spacers to get the pressure off the FX-R projector. My driver's side needed one washer per boss. Oddly enough, the passenger side needed two per boss. I just used CA glue to keep them in place until the projector was installed. They fit perfectly now!

 

Here's what I did:

 

Cheers,

John

 

I got half of my FX-R conversion done tonight... Vehicle is a 2014 Sierra 1500. Here are some pics of stock vs FX-R with 3Five ballasts and bulbs:

 

Front on view, stock vs FX-R (This isn't exactly a good photo. The iPhone doesn't do well with bright lights. The drivers side isn't that blinding or yellow in real life)

IMG_0222.JPG

 

Low beams, stock vs FX-R (Driveway is not level so they look like they're slanted)

IMG_0223.JPG

 

High Beams, stock vs FX-R (same reason for slant)

IMG_0224.JPG

 

Cheers,

John

Edited December 27, 2014 by jgedde

[Crf450r420]

Got to see these at night and I won't be running them down the road this way. I hope to tune the placement for improvement since these reach further in that the stock bulbs. I think it affects the cut off point. Is there a way to aim silverado fog lights?