HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

[Sicmab]

So thanks to everyone who helped, but a capacitor was the answer. Had an extra one laying around a bingo!

[Crf450r420]

Okay. Just tested and it all works. I just need to finalize the rear cover seals before putting the grill back on. Of course night will help aim them. I also took a lot of pictures and might be able to help others have less issues, but it will still take a while and patience. Other than new rear covers it and 8 scews will go to stock with out anything else. I drilled no holes anywhere.

Edited November 23, 2014 by Crf450r420

[Sicmab]

F me. The capacitor worked for 1 hour of driving. Buzzing is back. I'm going to have to try the recommended ones

[Crf450r420]

 

 

I'm no electrical wizard, but I'd think a solid state relay with an acceptably wide operating voltage range would be in order. That buzzing is parts actually moving very very fast and they will eventually fail...in not so long a time.

Trust me...

 

Hows about one of these?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Crydom/DC60S3/?qs=mNyg5qXQ%2FsdpD8JEee%252brpQ%3D%3D&kpid=2139422&gclid=CIKSldvXjsICFUuVfgodrD4AvQ

 

When I go thru things on the truck again for a projector retrofit, I'm going solid state on the relays.

Why do these come with two relays on the harness and just have a tiny wire going to the battery? There is no way the little wire will handle two 40 amp relays at full power, so you know this isn't pulling full power. One relay would probably do the work and would most likely have less trouble staying on with the power that is having trouble keeping two on. If I was to go solid state, I would think about getting one with a delay off control. Then you can set it to stay on for a minute and as long as it gets enough signal one a minute it would stay on. I have already thought about upgrading the relays to a good Hella relay we use at work before I even installed it.

[iicoolbreeze]

I put a set of 5000k 35w HIDs from Morimoto in my fog lights and am noticing the chrome that lines the fog housing is starting to melt. Will this get worse? Why would they make something that would melt this housing? The lense also feels hot as hell when touching it.

[Mike1220]

I put a set of 5000k 35w HIDs from Morimoto in my fog lights and am noticing the chrome that lines the fog housing is starting to melt. Will this get worse? Why would they make something that would melt this housing? The lense also feels hot as hell when touching it.

 

 

35W HIDs will put off a lot of heat for that little housing. I had issues with mine. I have a picture in the first or second page. The chrome in mine started to form bubble marks from the heat of a 25W HID. The 35W kits are a hit or miss in these housings.

 

It should not get much worse. Although make for sure that they are seated properly and held tight cause if you hit a good bump and knock them loose then they will melt the housings bad. Seen it happen before

[Crf450r420]

In an attempt to help the next person some with their install. Pictures are in my gallery. I'm sure there are errors in this, but never done any sort of write up before. I'm more of a do it person. LOL

 

I order the Morimoto kit from Retrofit source. The guy on the phone was helpful and I didn't want to wait 2 weeks.

 

First, tools needed: a tool to remove the plastic clips. 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, and ¼” nut drivers. I also used ¼” ratchet with a 10mm and extension for some parts. Tiny flat blade, small flat blade, and a small Phillips screw drivers. Wire strippers, crimpers, two heat shrink butt connectors, two feet of 16ga wire and two feet of wire loom. A tool to cut the back of the headlight caps, I used a cutoff on my Dremel. Tape to seal the back covers again, I used Gorilla tape as it is best of what I had (this stuff is what duct tape once was and then some). 4 x 6mm lock nuts, I only use stainless. 8 x #8 screws, 4 x 1.5” and 4 x 1”. I used ¼” hex heads for 6 and the other 2 are Phillips head. Drill and bit set to modify system to fit and a 9 volt battery for testing. One sided foam tape and some blue Loctite. Jack with two stands. Small zip ties.

 

I started by marking a spot 25 feet from garage. I pulled the truck there and marking the light line on the wall. I the backed the truck inside and marked the lights again on the garage door. I then jacked up the front a little and put it on stands so I could get under my chest under the front without hitting. I then pulled off the top cover under the hood and the full intake system. I then climbed under to get the 4 bolts holding the grill and then the 4 on top. Next removed the 2 bolts in each wheel well holding the painted trim piece and pulled it out from under the head lights. I then lifted up the grill to remove both pieces at once. I then disconnected the trim piece from the grill to make it easier to lie down, plus it’s easier to put it back together later. Then removed the 4 bolts in each headlight, if you lift just a little on the bottom of the headlight it takes no force to get the top clip out and they come right out.

 

Next, the projector swap and the hardest part of the whole install. Obviously remove the rear cover and unbolt the current projector. Next, you should screw #8 screws into the mounting locations to cut the new threads and make it easier to get them back in once the projector is in place. I learned this by accident when I had to modify how I did the bottom bolts so the high beams would work correctly. Then cut some cardboard to larger than the light and cut a hole in it so it will fit over both projectors. Then put it over the new projector and run #8 screws in through the top holes. Next put it on the stock projector and hold in place with those same screws. Then use two more to punch the bottom holes into the cardboard. Now put it back on the new one and center punch the bottom holes to be drilled. At first I drilled the two holes and started mounting the projector without running the screws down once first making it a PIA. Once I got it done and was happy. I grabbed a 9 volt to test the high beam shutters and that was when a good install changed directions. The metal ribbons going from the bottom up in the area we are putting the bolts are the springs holding the high beam shutters up for normal driving. When the highs activate the solenoid it pulls the shutter and springs down unless the bolts are in the way like they were. Instead of messing with that I was once happy with, I grabbed the other one instead, which is why the thread cutting idea was learned too late for me. I drilled the second one and then drilled the top part out large enough to fit the screw heads so the springs could work over top of them. This is where the 1” screws come into play as the 1.5” will not go down far enough. I used a Phillips on the larger side and ground down the hex head on the other one a lot, making it shorter by grinding the head down and rounding it down small enough to clear only leaving a flat head to run it down. You will need to keep checking the front to make sure you have it squared into the head light and that is still there once you have all four tight. Then test the shutter with a 9 volt battery. Don’t touch both leads as the 9 volt is multiplied in the coil and gives a shock that was good enough to make me drop screws when I was testing at the high beam connector to make sure iffy pins in the connector body that we have to put on worked. I found I had to bend the lock tabs out quite a bit to get them to lock in the connector body during install. Then put the splitters and run the high signal to the projector and the original high beam lights. When I went to redo the first one I decide to take it apart which wasn’t a big deal and cut the tabs off instead of drilling them. I got some pictures so you can see what they look like and then cleaned them up before putting them back together with some blue Loctite. Then I installed to projector and found out how easy the screws go in the second time. Now cut the backs open to clear the lights and connectors. I used a cutoff on my Dremel and then filed the edges down by hand, too lazy to change to a sanding roll. Once they fit the wiring started.

 

I mounted the inverted to the supplied bracket and then put foam padding on the back to keep it off the bolt below the mounting point I picked. There are two bolts sticking through on each side of the radiator. I used the top one for the inverter and the bottom one for the grounds. It takes a M6 nut and washer. I also grounded my capacitor ground on the passenger side one. I then drilled the hole in the relay mounting tab large enough to use the plastic rivet holding the block behind the headlight. This way zero holes were put into the truck. There is a step in the core support just below this point and I ran the passenger inverter signal and OEM control input wires passed that block there for a clean install. I then followed the hood sensor wire up and over the core support to the driver side inverter, following the hood latch control cable on the other side the rest of the way. This is where the extra wire and butt connectors come in. This wire didn’t reach with this setup. I then ran the battery wire up with the harness on the passenger side to the battery. Zip tied them all up and put the lights in with one bolt for testing. Once it worked, I taped up the back of the lights and put the truck back together. After that I just had to aim the head lights and take it for a test drive.

 

I was thinking and we need to find someone with a 3D printer. It shouldn't be that bad to make new rear covers that are larger and deeper with a good spot to use a grommet.

Edited November 24, 2014 by Crf450r420

[Horacio]

Wow!

Great write up and pics!

On your new mounting screws, how come one side you have a lot of meat and the other you're really close to the edge? Just the way it's gota be?

Edited November 24, 2014 by Horacio

[Jakob]

I put a set of 5000k 35w HIDs from Morimoto in my fog lights and am noticing the chrome that lines the fog housing is starting to melt. Will this get worse? Why would they make something that would melt this housing? The lense also feels hot as hell when touching it.

Do you have pics? I put in my 35w 6000k kit this past week and am curious now...

[Jakob]

Anyone have any issues with water getting under the hood? I did a quick mounting job for the ballasts (1 near airbox and 1 in empty space where 2nd battery should go), and I'm wondering if I should worry about water getting in to the ballasts. It's quite cold up in Minnesota, and I was going to properly mount them this spring since I don't have a heated garage anymore. My primary concern is getting car washes. The engine bay seems like it'll keep the water out, as do the ballasts, but I thought I'd ask anyways... Better to be safe than sorry.

[Crf450r420]

I'm trying to figure out how many people are getting away with 35w kit in the Silverado fog lights. I'm trying to get a price on new housings now to get an idea how much it would cost me if it does go completely wrong.

Edited November 24, 2014 by Crf450r420

[Crf450r420]

I'm trying to figure out how many people are getting away with 35w kit in the Silverado fog lights. I'm trying to get a price on new housings now to get an idea how much it would cost me if it does go completely wrong.

[Crf450r420]

Mori

 

Anyone have any issues with water getting under the hood? I did a quick mounting job for the ballasts (1 near airbox and 1 in empty space where 2nd battery should go), and I'm wondering if I should worry about water getting in to the ballasts. It's quite cold up in Minnesota, and I was going to properly mount them this spring since I don't have a heated garage anymore. My primary concern is getting car washes. The engine bay seems like it'll keep the water out, as do the ballasts, but I thought I'd ask anyways... Better to be safe than sorry.

Morimoto kit says their ballasts are waterproof and can be mounted anywhere. Don't know about the other brands.

[GMC-AT]

I wrapped every connection on my Moto kit with electric tape for added water proofing. I also added silicone to the seams of the ballast .... anywhere it looked like water could enter. all my connections, etc are air tight.

[Spurshot]

Forgive my ignorance and I'm sorry if used the wrong terminology, but isn't a relay + harness the same thing? In order words, I do have power coming from the battery. Thoughts?

 

How would I go about installing this solid state ready?

 

Cut the wires going to the existing relay, terminate them on the solid state relay as the schematic provided with the relay shows.