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HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit


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Have to cut the lights open and pull the whole projector assembly out. The bolt mom ting points don't even come close to lining up with the fxr even if you could fit it in the back. I will say on a positive note that we have designed and are getting made up adapter brackets. Once I have a good inventory of them I will post them up for sale. Not sure on price yet. JaronM3 has the same mountinf bracket on his that we are getting made. Stay tuned....

 

neato!

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I emailed those fastheadlights guy for a quote and never heard back from em

What is your name? I will look you up and reply. You wouldn't believe the amount of emails we get in a day. It is staggering and the best we can do is quickly sift through them looking for the easiest ones to answer. Things like "what can you do to my headlights?"..."how much for halos" ..."will these lights leak".... "I am saving up and will get back to you"...." will you sponsor me"......"my budget is $100"....."can I put Sierra lights in my Silverado".. The list goes on and on. I hate to sound like a douche or like some other big name companies who make people feel like they aren't important. But there are so many tire kicking, blow hands out there it is crazy. If we were a bigger business I would have a hot as secretary who could answer all those emails. Lol. Till then though. Just don't have time to get into the back and forth emailing folks like that. Unfortunately we are a two man operation and it isn't our full time job. Anyhow, I apologize for missing your email and will do my best to get back to you. Hopefully you weren't one of those "what can you do to my lights" guys;) Lol.
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Got my MORIMOTO Mopar Elite HID System installed last night.

 

Entire procedure took less then 1hr and everything worked the first time. I only see a few minor issues at this point:

 

1. The 4300K bulbs do not match the fog's, I know there are better things to spend money on but I have already ordered a set of 5000K's

 

2. The HD radio instantly looses signal when the HID's turn on. This appears to be a known issue based on Forum research, now I need to find better ground location.

 

3. The Wiring Grooms's appear to be good quality but I may try to find something a bit better.

 

4. The Ballast's are totally exposed to the elements, now that's great for cooling, but I am a bit concerned about them getting wet as the new 2014's don't seem to have much of anything in the form of a valance or plastic shield under the front end. I can certainly see where even a small rock could easily bounce up into the engine compartment. My CAI seems totally exposed, I will have to try to figure out some sort of DYI shield.

 

 

 

Floating Mounted Ballast

Super Easy to due Passenger Side due to my K&N CAI

20141001 063706

 

Morimoto  Mopar with 4300K Putco Fogs - Pic 2

 

Morimoto  Mopar with 4300K Putco Fogs - Pic 1

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So Last night I spend a few hours trying different grounding locations in an attempt to resolve my HD radio signal issue, but made little progress. I know there are a few of you that have installed the same Morimoto kit, so I am curious as to where you ended up running your grounds to eliminate the conflict with HD radio.

 

If you could post a picture that would be even better.

 

 

 

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Edited by Zasker1
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So Last night I spend a few hours trying different grounding locations in an attempt to resolve my HD radio signal issue, but made little progress. I know there are a few of you that have installed the same Morimoto kit, so I am curious as to where you ended up running your grounds to eliminate the conflict with HD radio.

 

If you could post a picture that would be even better.

 

 

 

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I have not checked to see if I have this problem as I mostly listen to XM and Pandora but I suspect that the grounding won't matter the fact is the HID ballasts generate a considerable amount of EMI radiation. they are in fact a high voltage AC generator about 20,000 volts not sure the exact frequency but my guess is that the actual emission point would be the return wire at the HID bulb itself.

you could say to a degree the high voltage at that location is a lot like a mini radio tower sending out a high frequency square wave. surprised it doesn't affect AM reception the way it does FM.

since I have not checked my own setup, are you still able to get FM just not n HD? or no FM at all?

if I were to look for a solution it might be to relocate the antenna to the rear of the truck somehow or in the back window area. might be able to run a wire under the back tailgate plastic spoiler to hide it.

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I have now verified that my FM radio and HD are UNAFFECTED when my headlights are on. i am using the miromoto 35 watt HID bulbs ballasts and relay harness.

my ballasts are grounded under the bolts that connect the strut brace to the front rad support on each side.

the capacitor and relays are grounded on the passenger side in the same location.

my power is connected to the aux stud under the battery buss cover not directly to the battery.

my ballasts are mounted to the engine compartment side walls at the very front behind each light assembly.

 

what might be different on your install is if you just did a bulb swap your using 9004 bulbs, i am pretty sure you have 2 leads connecting the ballast to the bulbs. these are unshielded. the D1s bulbs are used in the HID compliant projector assembly. not only so they have faster warmup and better output they also have a coaxial shielded high voltage tension lead going directly to the back of the bulbs.

having said that i think your problems have more to do with the type of bulb and ballast and the fact the wires aren't shielded.

you might try twisting up the leads and wrapping them in some electrical tape and then foil and see if that helps. however i do not like the idea of a make shift shield, it is possible with that much voltage arching could occur. i think it is vital that you not only wrap each lead with electrical tape before twisting them around each other, but make sure there are NO exposed areas of the high voltage wires. you need to shield them all the way from the ballast to the back of the bulb itself and even then i cannot guarantee this will help but it is worth a shot.

i suspect the passenger side may be more of a culprit than the drivers side.

 

please report back on your results, thinking about this issue i am sure i am right and glad i didn't go the cheap route. you'll find the actual swapping of the projector itself is the only real professional way to get the results your looking for.

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Holy shit, why does the morimoto READY FIGHT kit have so many ground points???? I feel bad seeing how many of you are struggling with radio issues due to the crazy amount of grounding necessary to get that hid kit to work.

 

Just giving you guys a heads up, you don't have to be a follower, there are other kits out there that will work perfectly without all those foolish grounding points/issues you guys are experiencing...and i'm not talking about DDM....I just swapped my HID ballast from DDM to a Euro spec BMW hid ballast that is made to work for F30 BMW's and it is working perfectly. doesn't require a single grounding point. a quality kit does not require any additional grounding points. just sayin...

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Hey I'm new to the truck and headlight world with my new 2014 Silverado LT I've been thinking of putting HIDs for high+low beams and fog lights. I've read some of thrushes with the fog lights, but what I'm really concerned with is the high beams with HIDs I read somewhere that you shouldn't use HID high beams because they take like 15 seconds to warm up and the constant on and off blows the bulbs? Any info on this?

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Hey I'm new to the truck and headlight world with my new 2014 Silverado LT I've been thinking of putting HIDs for high+low beams and fog lights. I've read some of thrushes with the fog lights, but what I'm really concerned with is the high beams with HIDs I read somewhere that you shouldn't use HID high beams because they take like 15 seconds to warm up and the constant on and off blows the bulbs? Any info on this?

They do take a while to brighten up. You will get one good flash, but that's it. I would recommend an LED bulb for your high beams. Also, do you have the projector headlights for your low beams?

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Is there any particular reason you want HID for high beams? As far as bulbs burning out, I can see that as a possibility with constant on and off, however I've never had a bulb go bad.

Edited by arkenzo
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Hey guys, quick HID question!

 

After reading most of the 44 pages of replies on this 2014 HID topic I learned a bit, but was still hoping to have some questions answered. I've been installing HIDs in my own vehicles for 10+ years (always GM) but never have I installed a relay harness or error code elim's (caps) before. I hooked up my relay harness with caps inline and couldnt get my lights to turn on. I wasnt sure if I needed to create my own ground for the relay so I connected + wire to + post on battery, and - wire on - battery post. After researching here I noticed many people took the negative from the harness and created their own ground. Could this be a reason why my lights were not working? From info I found here I understand the DDM kit (which I have) does not have to have reversed polarity. If anyone can give me a few pointers, or even one better, some install pics with a DDM Kit and harness I would be grateful as I only have my fogs loaded up at the moment. Thanks!

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Hey guys, quick HID question!

 

After reading most of the 44 pages of replies on this 2014 HID topic I learned a bit, but was still hoping to have some questions answered. I've been installing HIDs in my own vehicles for 10+ years (always GM) but never have I installed a relay harness or error code elim's (caps) before. I hooked up my relay harness with caps inline and couldnt get my lights to turn on. I wasnt sure if I needed to create my own ground for the relay so I connected + wire to + post on battery, and - wire on - battery post. After researching here I noticed many people took the negative from the harness and created their own ground. Could this be a reason why my lights were not working? From info I found here I understand the DDM kit (which I have) does not have to have reversed polarity. If anyone can give me a few pointers, or even one better, some install pics with a DDM Kit and harness I would be grateful as I only have my fogs loaded up at the moment. Thanks!

Which kit do you have? 35W or 55W? The 55w does not need the error decoder/ capacitor. Also just double check the polarity just to be sure. As for the negative, mine is grounded to the battery. Most of my light accessories are except for my light bar. But that's just cause it wouldn't comfortably reach to the battery negative. So I grounded it elsewhere.

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Which kit do you have? 35W or 55W? The 55w does not need the error decoder/ capacitor. Also just double check the polarity just to be sure. As for the negative, mine is grounded to the battery. Most of my light accessories are except for my light bar. But that's just cause it wouldn't comfortably reach to the battery negative. So I grounded it elsewhere.

 

I have 35w kits, I tried reversing the polarity but maybe I tried on the wrong plugs.

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Holy shit, why does the morimoto READY FIGHT kit have so many ground points???? I feel bad seeing how many of you are struggling with radio issues due to the crazy amount of grounding necessary to get that hid kit to work.

 

Just giving you guys a heads up, you don't have to be a follower, there are other kits out there that will work perfectly without all those foolish grounding points/issues you guys are experiencing...and i'm not talking about DDM....I just swapped my HID ballast from DDM to a Euro spec BMW hid ballast that is made to work for F30 BMW's and it is working perfectly. doesn't require a single grounding point. a quality kit does not require any additional grounding points. just sayin...

 

I have the Morimoto with no issues with HD radio. I just got done making minor adjustments to the FX-R projectors and I was curious about the HD radio, everything works fine. There is three grounding points, but its not difficult to find grounding points. It took me all of 5 minutes to wire the harness with the capacitor. I'm pretty sure the amount of grounding points a HID kits have, does not have anything to do with the quality of the kit. I am a BMW enthusiast, where did you get the ballast from and how much? I wish our trucks had the auto leveling and turning like the BMW lights.

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