HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

Liquidfx17 · September 21, 2014

try moving your grounds. see page 24, post 357.

that is the same spot I have my drivers side grounded to. Passenger side I took off the air box, removed the tray under the air box and grounded them to a bolt there that in the core support. The hids function properly and all.

Liquidfx17 · September 21, 2014

Ground movement has made no difference on hd

nevadaguy · September 21, 2014

Ground movement has made no difference on hd

I not positively sure, but, i do not believe that the HID has anything to do with your HD reception on the radio. Now why it takes longer for your HD channels to come in after the installation of the HID is anyone's guess. Might check the connection to the antenna, which you probably did already.

Liquidfx17 · September 21, 2014

It's hd and just standard fm seems to be interfering with reception

colton_m · September 21, 2014

I think that you only need the canbus r error decoder when you have the smaller 35W kits. Once you go up to 50 or 55W, the ballast must be strong enough for the computer to recognize that all is working as it should. Just somethig I have noticed across the board with people who have 50W or 55W kits.

Turns out I was wrong, see my edited post above for details.

I am now running one canbus between the OEM light signal and my relay.

OEM signal > Canbus > HD Relay > HID Bulbs

Running good! Again lol

JaronM3 · September 22, 2014

Turns out I was wrong, see my edited post above for details.

I am now running one canbus between the OEM light signal and my relay.

OEM signal > Canbus > HD Relay > HID Bulbs

Running good! Again lol

I just called TRS and Andrew (I think I spoke with him), he stated that the Capacitor Link is better for your tuck than the Canbus. I just ordered the Capacitor Link. I'm pretty sure both methods will work. If someone can confirm this, that would help.

cleatusbeaucifus · September 24, 2014

Hey guys. So I installed my Morimoto 35W 5000K kit with Fx-R 3.0 projectors a few weeks ago. I encountered several issues with mounting the projectors along the way. Most likely because this was my first retrofit however I was surprised by how much I had to cut out of the back cap of my Silvy LTZ headlights after reading how easy everyone on here was completing this retrofit.

The first time I buttoned everything up I used the butyl glue to keep the moisture out but I had to take everything back apart because the projectors were pointed to the sky and the adjustment screw was bottomed out. This was an absolute mess! The glue got all over everything!!!!!

After I got my adjustment issue resolved I tried to seal the back up with aluminum tape. This worked ok but I'm starting to see moisture fogging up my lenses. When I called TRS to see what they recommend, they were surprised that I was having these issues and that I had to cut so much out of the back of the cap. He was saying that most people on this forum was just cutting a hole in the back of the cap and using the rubber grommet supplied in the kit. I could not get the cap to fit by just cutting a hole due the the connector wire and I certainly couldn't get the rubber grommet to go over the connector.

I have two questions for all the knowledgable folks on this forum.

1) How did everyone else cut out the hole in the back of their housings? Were you able to use the rubber grommet supplied?

2) Is the butyl glue really the best option for sealing the back of the housing?

Thanks for any inputs!

FastWS6TA · September 24, 2014

Post a pic of the back if you can. I personally think that butyl sealant sucks. It is very messy especially when used in this application...... Silicone adhesive.

14WhiteZ71 · September 25, 2014

Need a little help here. Long story short. Had DDMtuning HID's for years and years in my '06 2500 HD. Took them out when I sold the truck. Now using All DDMtuning parts except the bulbs. Ballasts, wiring harness, and code eliminators all came from DDM. Bought Morimoto bulbs a few months back (again long story short, ended up switching out some bulbs from DDM with HID's in my wife's trailblazer and just buying new ones for me from Morimoto).

So I installed the Kit using one code eliminator on the passenger side. (guess this is correct with the DDM wiring harness). Installed everything. HID's worked great. No flickering, no buzzing, nothing....just worked great......for several weeks. All of a sudden tonight on my ride home my Driver side light goes out. I could cut the lights off then back on once or twice and it would flicker a few times then go out. Then eventually it just didn't do anything. Had an extra code eliminator (capicitor, whatever you call it), so I tried installing that to see if that was the problem. Still no light. Took the bulb out and it looks fine. Guess my only option to check that is to switch it out with an extra DDM bulb I have and see if that one works. I'm not 100% confident I have it all wired correctly, but I was assuming I did since everything worked properly for several weeks prior to tonight.

Anyone have any idea what might be the problem. I know there are 44 pages of stuff on here, and I have looked through all 44 at one point before just reading. But I really don't have the time to go back through all 44 to see if this problem has been diagnosed before. I looked at the wiring diagram too (which is what I used to wire mine), but still not 100% positive I was getting it all right. In fact, come to think of it, my wiring harness has a loose end with nothing connected. Like it had 3 ends to it or something. Having a little ttouble remembering now. And that doesn't make sense to me...... but agian, everything worked for several weeks.

On a side note, my wife's 2008 Trailblazer has all DDM kit in it. It worked great for a couple of years, then all of a sudden her drivers side light only would go out. Sometimes she can turn the lights off then back on and it would work again. Sometimes it just doesn't work for days, then starts back. Also tried a capacitor on hers and it didn't work. Does she need a wiring harness too? Just doesn't make sense that it would work for so long then work when it feels like it on the drivers side only. All the while her bright lights have never failed. They always work.

Any help is greatly appreciated .

Thanks.

Spurshot · September 25, 2014

Swap the relays and see if the problem goes with the relay. If it does, you need a relay. If it stays on the same side, swap bulbs. If it still stays on the same side, swap ballasts ...etc.

Edited September 25, 2014 by spurshot

colton_m · September 25, 2014

I just called TRS and Andrew (I think I spoke with him), he stated that the Capacitor Link is better for your tuck than the Canbus. I just ordered the Capacitor Link. I'm pretty sure both methods will work. If someone can confirm this, that would help.

After a few nights of driving I discovered that I have two shadows in my beam pattern leading from the front of the truck up to the cut-off line (on both bulbs). I spoke with TRS about this, it's because the Silverado projector needs the "XB35" brand bulbs. The difference is the post that runs the length of the bulb outside the glass is on the opposite side so it doesn't create a shadow. Grinding down the longer tab on a standard H11 bulb and rotating it will solve the problem too. At any rate I ordered a set of XB35 H11 bulbs and a capacitor link, I'm going to try them both out and report back.

I don't like to assume but it's looking like the best HID combo for an OEM silverado projector is going to be: HD Relay Harness + Capacitor Link + XB35 H11 bulbs, oh and the 50watt ballast is sweet

Edited September 25, 2014 by colton_m

arkenzo · September 25, 2014

dang, seems like they really want you to put more money into their proprietary stuff eh. my ddm 35w hid's are still running great. best $30 investment

colton_m · September 25, 2014

dang, seems like they really want you to put more money into their proprietary stuff eh. my ddm 35w hid's are still running great. best $30 investment

On the LT trucks you would have a reflector housing, in that case it doesn't really matter what side of the bulb that pillar is on. It's reflecting light everywhere so no shadow haha. Is $30 for real? lol. The stuff I need is $185 + $10 shipping + duty and exchange rate... So about $250, damn bright though, I'll never change back

arkenzo · September 25, 2014

On the LT trucks you would have a reflector housing, in that case it doesn't really matter what side of the bulb that pillar is on. It's reflecting light everywhere so no shadow haha. Is $30 for real? lol. The stuff I need is $185 + $10 shipping + duty and exchange rate... So about $250, damn bright though, I'll never change back

projectors or not, they're a major improvement over stock bulbs, i also adjusted them accordingly for my rough country 2.5" lift.

and yes, paid $29.99 for the 35w kit...tempted to try the 55w kit, ddm tuning has a store in huntington beach where i buy all my light accessories.

Spurshot · September 25, 2014

projectors or not, they're a major improvement over stock bulbs, i also adjusted them accordingly for my rough country 2.5" lift.

and yes, paid $29.99 for the 35w kit...tempted to try the 55w kit, ddm tuning has a store in huntington beach where i buy all my light accessories.

It's worth a bit of your time to check out the HID Planet forum. Putting HIDs in a reflector headlight makes for uncontrolled light scatter which glares into everyone else's eyes on the road. You about tripled your light output and halved your control of it. It's pleasing and entertaining to the person in the vehicle with the HIDs in the reflector lights, but blinding to oncoming drivers. Enough so that it can cause them to loose sight of the road surface and go off the road, especially outside of town in dark areas.

I'm in Socal and both you and I see many people with HIDs in reflector headlights in town. On a big wide, well lit boulevard, it is just irritating to oncoming traffic and in rearview mirrors of people in front of you. On a dark, narrow highway, it could be much worse for someone. Some things to consider for your fellow drivers that share the roads with you. It's a hazard, and it's real. Just because a lot of other people do things, that isn't justification to make it the right thing to do. Man up.

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?37924-The-Official-HID-Fail-Gallery