HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

[ozzyto]

I'm very interested too. Last thing I need is something going wrong and burning something out.

[GMC-AT]

I think what you have is the best route. It seems what I ordered.. .and many others have.... just requires extra work? Would love to hear others chime in.... I may be returning my Capacitor kit and getting the Canbus kit like you have.

[bdbake01]

Ok, lemme see if I can do this.

 

The "relay" kits include a relay, which is essentially an electrically operated switch. The old, small wires which used to power your halogen lights act as the input to this relay, similar to your hand flipping a wall switch, to turn it on. The relay, in turn, send nice, clean, no canbus power directly from the batter, through the relay, to your HID ballasts. The ballasts like this.

 

The caps are usually necessary to keep the old bulb single that turns on the relay nice, clean, and canbus free so the relay doesn't chatter. Without it, it's kinda like the wall switch analogy except you've got a really shaky arm and you don't just flip the switch on, but you jiggle it (just a little bit, c'mon now jiggle it...) on and off very quickly making the lights flicker.

 

Now, you can, as our friend here has done, forget the relays and just power the ballasts directly from the old bulb harness so when the truck decides to turn on the lights, it actually just sends power to the ballasts instead of the bulbs, and the ballasts in turn power the HID bulbs. This can work too, but it isn't as desirable as you still have to use the caps to get the canbus out so the ballasts don't freak out, and the wires are small, truck may think the buls are out without load, etc. etc.

 

This helpful at all?

[GMC-AT]

Ok, I just had a good talk with the guy at TRS. In simple english -

 

Capacitor link kit - better reliability due to the dedicated 12v / grounding....it's that simple. They said although Cabus will work, they would not recommend it as you could have issues down the road.

[nevadaguy]

Ok, lemme see if I can do this.

 

The "relay" kits include a relay, which is essentially an electrically operated switch. The old, small wires which used to power your halogen lights act as the input to this relay, similar to your hand flipping a wall switch, to turn it on. The relay, in turn, send nice, clean, no canbus power directly from the batter, through the relay, to your HID ballasts. The ballasts like this.

 

The caps are usually necessary to keep the old bulb single that turns on the relay nice, clean, and canbus free so the relay doesn't chatter. Without it, it's kinda like the wall switch analogy except you've got a really shaky arm and you don't just flip the switch on, but you jiggle it (just a little bit, c'mon now jiggle it...) on and off very quickly making the lights flicker.

 

Now, you can, as our friend here has done, forget the relays and just power the ballasts directly from the old bulb harness so when the truck decides to turn on the lights, it actually just sends power to the ballasts instead of the bulbs, and the ballasts in turn power the HID bulbs. This can work too, but it isn't as desirable as you still have to use the caps to get the canbus out so the ballasts don't freak out, and the wires are small, truck may think the buls are out without load, etc. etc.

 

This helpful at all?

sounds good.

[ozzyto]

I should probably convert.

[cquinlan777]

This was the most helpful post when installing HIDs in my 2014 gmc sierra 1500 SLT. I have never had to install and additional relay harness for HIDs they have just always worked until now....For my headlights I used a 9006 Genssi 5000k kit (the 4500k kit will probably match the existing LEDs a little better) off of Amazon for about 40 bucks I have always used DDM tuning but I was tired of waiting a month for my lights. Mine wired a little different than described in the post.

I was using a double relay harness and still had to reverse the wires coming from the stock plug. (Not a big deal)

I also did not use a code eliminator, I bought one and they do not work when I install it. They do not buzz or flicker without them

 

For my foglights I ordered GP Thunder 5202 cree LEDs because I didnt want to melt the fogs. They cost about 40 bucks and were plug and play and are 5k white. I first recieved some phony brand and they were between a 6k or 8k and those were returned. Both took no longer than 5min to install

 

Some other problems I ran into was getting the airbox out. Make sure you unplug the MAF and ALSO unclip it from the box (Makes it 100x easier to get in there)

Then to take the airbox out after you unhook everything and take the filter out. Just pull up on the lower part of the airbox and it will pop right out. There are two rubber plugs holding it in place.

I have light abover the cutoff so I just need to reach in and adjust those as described earlier in the post.

 

Ill try to get some pictures up soon and an exact diagram of how it worked in my truck.

 

But seriously great write up, thank you.

[Ben R]

Having read this article I am convinced that I would like to have the retrofit done on my 2014 Sierra 1500 SLT. Am I convinced that I can do it, no! Question is, is there some one in south Florida that could or would undertake this project and what should I expect to pay for complete installation of the new headlights. I would be interested in having the most recommended brand installed for just the headlights only.

 

I recently took a road trip from south Florida to Charlotte, N.C. and dreaded every mile of night driving. Thanks in advance for any and all replies or help.

 

Ben r

Fort Pierce, Florida

[bass mechanic]

ok guys, I finally got my retrofitted projectors in last night and I have to say the install was pretty much a piece of cake!

I have done retrofits before and taking apart the back side of the housing is the way to go!

 

so we start off by covering the front with tape to prevent scratching the lens on your work surface

 

then you begin cutting the rear section of the assembly off, I measured and made straight lines with an angle on 1 side so I would not compromise the integrity of the headlight and used a razor knife to get a nice clean cut that can be re attached easily.

 

if you just lightly score the same line over and over again eventually you'll cut through, use light pressure at first and then increase the pressure once you have established a nice clean channel for your knife to follow.

once you get that cut off, remove the factory projector

 

put a rag in the lens hole to prevent any plastic chinks from getting stuck in the lens.

 

 

now you have to cut off the 2 mounting posts at the top of the lens mount. if you don't remove these the projector will not sit square on the mounting plate

 

now cut off the top 2 mounting posts

 

I used a dremmel like this

 

then drill 2 holes into what's left of the mounting posts, now this is tricky these holes will not be straight in! they will be tilted back starting at the edge and inward at about 2 degree angle, if you don't get them dead center its fine to make them just a little off center to the side if you can manage it, basically you want these to be as wide from each other as you can get them without moving too far off the centerline of the hole

 

 

for this part I apologize I did not get as many pics as I should have so ill have to explain how you modify this projector.

looking at the right of the pic you will see I removed 2 of the Phillips screws that hold the FXR assembly together, they are machine thread. remove the top 2 Phillips screws from the FXR and using an 11/32 drill bit drill out the holes all the way through the projector assembly. wallow those holes out large enough so the screw is loose in them because the screw will have to go through and tilt forward. this is why the holed drilled in the plastic factory mount plate were at an angle (have to fudge the mounting location a tad.

I used number 8 sheet metal screws 1.5 inches long I would recommend using number 6 sheet metal screws for these 2 as it will give you more adjustment flexibility and allow the screw to go through and have more slop in the hole, the problem is the mount locations do not line up exactly and a little play in the finished product will allow you to position the projector exactly in the center of the hole when you put it together.

 

now for the the bottom 2 holes.

in this pic above they are on the left of the pic. basically you want to drill 2 holes at the very edge of the FRX they ill go through 2 pieces of metal in the assembly

they are located just about 2 mm below the regular FXR mounting holes. I would recommend that you install the top 2 screws loosely and eyeball the center of the lower mount posts, mark it and drill. you want to drill at a slight angle so the but starts at the edge but ends up coming right out a the very edge of the FXR assembly, this is more to aid in the drilling but you want the screw to literally hug the inside edge of the projector. there is a spring in there you will just miss with the bit that is part of the high beam cutoff shield. make your holes large enough to accommodate a number 8 by 3/4 inch long sheet metal screw I think I used a 11/32 bit.

once you have them drilled you can mount the projector.

next drill your 1 1/4 hole in the side of the cover for the high tension lead to pass through.

 

then with a little superglue, run a bead around the entire perimeter of the cut off part and reassemble, the glue dries in a few seconds and is safe to handel in a minute.

then I went around the cut with some black RTV gasket maker silicone for added measure.

 

this is a bad pic but I was trying to show how my install has the lens exactly in the center of the mounting plate. the black that you see is the plate and the silver inner line is the FXR notice how it fits perfectly flush and centered all around.

 

when I was done with the install I didn't not even need to adjust anything the aim was perfect!

 

you may not notice but these lights are tinted, the sun is shining directly on them at the moment, its a light tint but since I have actual HID now it is not noticeable at night

 

 

here is a little headlight beam porn, keep in mind this output is with tinted lenses. so as you can see still plenty of light and good fill across the road, check out the cut off line all along the wall of the building.

 

 

ill get some better pics, later I was up till 2:00 this morning finishing everything up.

Edited August 13, 2014 by bass mechanic

[sP3¢+@¢U£0Us]

That is the kind of instruction this thread has been lacking!

 

Now if only someone could post a similar post for adding projectors to a non projector Silverado, we'd be in business!

[corwest]

That is the kind of instruction this thread has been lacking!

 

Now if only someone could post a similar post for adding projectors to a non projector Silverado, we'd be in business!

That is quite a bit more in depth. You can however find tutorials online on how to do it

 

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

[GMC-AT]

So I installed the morimoto kit tonight in my Sierra. Everything works just like it should.

 

I guess it's safe to say I hooked up everything correctly... otherwise it wouldn't work at all ?

I will post pic tomorrow.

[Spurshot]

Sounds great. Congratulations!

 

You'll really like the better visibility.

[Mike1220]

ok guys, I finally got my retrofitted projectors in last night and I have to say the install was pretty much a piece of cake!

I have done retrofits before and taking apart the back side of the housing is the way to go!

 

so we start off by covering the front with tape to prevent scratching the lens on your work surface

 

then you begin cutting the rear section of the assembly off, I measured and made straight lines with an angle on 1 side so I would not compromise the integrity of the headlight and used a razor knife to get a nice clean cut that can be re attached easily.

 

if you just lightly score the same line over and over again eventually you'll cut through, use light pressure at first and then increase the pressure once you have established a nice clean channel for your knife to follow.

once you get that cut off, remove the factory projector

 

put a rag in the lens hole to prevent any plastic chinks from getting stuck in the lens.

 

 

now you have to cut off the 2 mounting posts at the top of the lens mount. if you don't remove these the projector will not sit square on the mounting plate

 

now cut off the top 2 mounting posts

 

I used a dremmel like this

 

then drill 2 holes into what's left of the mounting posts, now this is tricky these holes will not be straight in! they will be tilted back starting at the edge and inward at about 2 degree angle, if you don't get them dead center its fine to make them just a little off center to the side if you can manage it, basically you want these to be as wide from each other as you can get them without moving too far off the centerline of the hole

 

 

for this part I apologize I did not get as many pics as I should have so ill have to explain how you modify this projector.

looking at the right of the pic you will see I removed 2 of the Phillips screws that hold the FXR assembly together, they are machine thread. remove the top 2 Phillips screws from the FXR and using an 11/32 drill bit drill out the holes all the way through the projector assembly. wallow those holes out large enough so the screw is loose in them because the screw will have to go through and tilt forward. this is why the holed drilled in the plastic factory mount plate were at an angle (have to fudge the mounting location a tad.

I used number 8 sheet metal screws 1.5 inches long I would recommend using number 6 sheet metal screws for these 2 as it will give you more adjustment flexibility and allow the screw to go through and have more slop in the hole, the problem is the mount locations do not line up exactly and a little play in the finished product will allow you to position the projector exactly in the center of the hole when you put it together.

 

now for the the bottom 2 holes.

in this pic above they are on the left of the pic. basically you want to drill 2 holes at the very edge of the FRX they ill go through 2 pieces of metal in the assembly

they are located just about 2 mm below the regular FXR mounting holes. I would recommend that you install the top 2 screws loosely and eyeball the center of the lower mount posts, mark it and drill. you want to drill at a slight angle so the but starts at the edge but ends up coming right out a the very edge of the FXR assembly, this is more to aid in the drilling but you want the screw to literally hug the inside edge of the projector. there is a spring in there you will just miss with the bit that is part of the high beam cutoff shield. make your holes large enough to accommodate a number 8 by 3/4 inch long sheet metal screw I think I used a 11/32 bit.

once you have them drilled you can mount the projector.

next drill your 1 1/4 hole in the side of the cover for the high tension lead to pass through.

 

then with a little superglue, run a bead around the entire perimeter of the cut off part and reassemble, the glue dries in a few seconds and is safe to handel in a minute.

then I went around the cut with some black RTV gasket maker silicone for added measure.

 

this is a bad pic but I was trying to show how my install has the lens exactly in the center of the mounting plate. the black that you see is the plate and the silver inner line is the FXR notice how it fits perfectly flush and centered all around.

 

when I was done with the install I didn't not even need to adjust anything the aim was perfect!

 

you may not notice but these lights are tinted, the sun is shining directly on them at the moment, its a light tint but since I have actual HID now it is not noticeable at night

 

 

here is a little headlight beam porn, keep in mind this output is with tinted lenses. so as you can see still plenty of light and good fill across the road, check out the cut off line all along the wall of the building.

 

 

ill get some better pics, later I was up till 2:00 this morning finishing everything up.

 

Incredible right up! Just what this thread needed! And also, which projectors did you put in there? Just curious.

[J-Jeezy]

By the looks of the rear of the projector he went with an fxr 3.0. I wanna say 3" but don't quote me on that. I believe what thread pitch most guys use these day is 8/32" but I may be wrong.

Edited August 14, 2014 by J-Jeezy