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HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit


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Quick review on on morimoto fogs and drop in HID's. I'm using hylux ballast with morimoto 5500K bulbs. The hylux ballast are top quality, my only complaint is the  canbus module is kinda big and make mounting a little awkward but 3m self stick Velcro works great for install. The morimoto bulbs came with an extremely ugly brown/tan grommet. I don't know what they were thinking, I opened the box and said WTF is this. Asked retrofit source about it and they said that's how they come now. I also had an issue with one of the connectors not holding the pins securely but was able to fix that. The fog lights are nice, little hard to get them to "click" back in but nice wide output. Color wise they do look whiter than the 5500K bulbs. Output of the factory projectors with the hid bulbs is much better than stock. Best way to describe is like comparing a candle to a flash light. If you been on the fence about doing it have no fear you wont be disappointed. I do have a set of g5-r projectors waiting for me to find the time to install them so im excited to see how they do.

 

 

Edited by BlackZ71SLT
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Seriously stop buying from other places everybody, buy from fast headlights aka fastws6ta.

 

-he is at the same price or cheaper as everybody else

-he’s active on the forum

-he was literally helping me via text message during installation, on the weekend

-I have absolute zero issues, oem reliability

 

 

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Seriously stop buying from other places everybody, buy from fast headlights aka fastws6ta.
 
-he is at the same price or cheaper as everybody else
-he’s active on the forum
-he was literally helping me via text message during installation, on the weekend
-I have absolute zero issues, oem reliability
 
 
Thanks man. I really appreciate it. I always try my best to help out.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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Hey AJ
It sounds like maybe the back of the bulb is hitting inside the cap. I see this quite often where the dust cap isn't modified quite long enough and when the headlight is adjusted up the bulb hits the cap and you cant adjuat any higher. Remove the cap and see if you can adjust higher. If you can then it's an easy fix.

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You are a flipping genius!!! I purchased the headlight used off of another member who drilled the holes in the dust caps. They were completely off for the use with the FX-r projectors. Once I dremel’d out the opening more the headlights aligned perfectly. 06ff55ce678695409ba8181cdb011e02.jpg

Any ideas on what to check for moisture getting in where the high beam and turn signals are?

While I had the lights off the truck I used a air dryer to get rid of the water and then checked every bulb and gasket on the dust covers.


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You are a flipping genius!!! I purchased the headlight used off of another member who drilled the holes in the dust caps. They were completely off for the use with the FX-r projectors. Once I dremel’d out the opening more the headlights aligned perfectly. 06ff55ce678695409ba8181cdb011e02.jpg

Any ideas on what to check for moisture getting in where the high beam and turn signals are?

While I had the lights off the truck I used a air dryer to get rid of the water and then checked every bulb and gasket on the dust covers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Happy to help!
Are they OEM lights? Sometimes moisture issues are.related to breather valves not working or torn.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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13 minutes ago, FastWS6TA said:

Happy to help!
Are they OEM lights? Sometimes moisture issues are.related to breather valves not working or torn.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

Yes they are OEM LTZ headlights. I will check the breather valves! They seem to be okay for the moment. 

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Update on my issues: I plugged in the new Morimoto/Hylux ballast and still having the issues.  As of this morning I can no longer get my driver's side lamp to work. I contacted TRS again on the issue, going to resolve soon.  Been working with them on this since late September...

 

Sounds like the best option is to isolate each side of the HID (or LED system for that matter) and use the respective OEM input for the lights.  I.e. the hylux uses both inputs versus the TRS kit which uses the single passenger input to control the relays.

 

I'm starting to regret ever doing to the retroquick install which limited me to only every running D2S bulbs.

 

Will report back once I get more news from TRS. 

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2 hours ago, Waterfowler41 said:

Update on my issues: I plugged in the new Morimoto/Hylux ballast and still having the issues.  As of this morning I can no longer get my driver's side lamp to work. I contacted TRS again on the issue, going to resolve soon.  Been working with them on this since late September...

 

Sounds like the best option is to isolate each side of the HID (or LED system for that matter) and use the respective OEM input for the lights.  I.e. the hylux uses both inputs versus the TRS kit which uses the single passenger input to control the relays.

 

I'm starting to regret ever doing to the retroquick install which limited me to only every running D2S bulbs.

 

Will report back once I get more news from TRS. 

Is the OEM bulb harness that's plugged in closest to the battery?

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4 minutes ago, 8lugCT said:

Is the OEM bulb harness that's plugged in closest to the battery?

Yup

 

My passenger side OEM plug is used to send a signal through the capacitor link to the HD relay harness (1 signal split to two relays).  The relays close the loop and allow the power wire which is directly on my battery terminal to power the ballasts (again 1 power spliced to feed the 12V terminal on the relays).  I hear both relays clicking and have replaced them with known working ones.  I also get 13V at the plugs (inputs for the ballast) when the truck is on so something from the ballast to the igniter, to the bulb is not functioning properly.  I replaced the ballasts so now its likely the igniters or bulbs BUT since the issue pops back and forth from side to side I really don't know.  I suspect its because the HD relay harness shares both the signal (call from BCM when to turn lights on) and the single power feed that may be an issue.  

 

This is why I think going to either the Hylux or LED will resolve my issue since they isolate sides.  I know I will take a hit on lumen output from LEDs but compared to only having 1 functional HID the last couple of months, I'm ok with the decrease if it means I have two working lights... Real PITA when I do a lot of night time driving.

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