HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

[300 Blackout]

I just purchased the morimoto d2s kit from fastheadlights for a 2015 GMC Sierra HD. Quick question, how do you adjust the projectors? I’m concerned about whether they will be too low or high. 

With your hood open, look above each headlight for a hole in the plastic cover that sits above your grill/radiator/condenser. Down in that hole is a plastic screw that raises or lowers the beam of the headlight projector. All you have to do is insert a screwdriver and turn one way or the other to adjust the lights.

[300 Blackout]

Can the OEM headlight harness handle running all current through it alone? 

The working current is only 3.3amps at 12volts dc which is 39 Watts. A comparable HIR2 bulb draws 55 Watts at 12.8 volts dc which is 4.2 amps. The HID uses 25% less current.

[Waterfowler41]

This is a bit of a hail Mary post but here it goes.

2014 GMC Sierra w/o LED DRLs and battery is 2 years old

 

Existing set up: TRS retroquick projector upgrade, Morimoto HD harness, Morimoto ballasts, Morimoto DS2 igniters and bulbs, TRS cap link. Harness uses input from passenger side headlight to fire up the relays. 

 

Issue: My headlights do not fire reliably.  It typically take 4-5 times shifting in and out of drive to get both headlights to start up (happens in both DRL mode and at night when headlights should  be on).  More often then not my passenger side will start up and drivers will not.  A couple times turning lights on and off, eventually both sides start up.  This occasionally happens in reverse, drivers side turns on but passenger needs a few starts.  

 

Work to date: Cap link replaced 3 times, ballasts replaced twice per side, relays replaced twice, power fuse was replaced, grounds and power connections all cleaned and tested for continuity. HD harness still original.  I tested voltage both when this issue happens and when the lights work properly, no difference ~ 13V.  I measured power about both ballast power inputs and confirmed its making it to the ballast. 

 

Does anyone have experience with this issue or any additional diagnosing I can do to isolate the issue? Its only a matter of time before the cops pull me over for 1 headlight working.  

 

I have been working with TRS for about 2 months on this issue and yet to find some resolution.  They've been more than patient and have been replacing pretty much any part I asked for but seeing no progress... which is frustrating. 

Edited November 19, 2018 by Waterfowler41

[300 Blackout]

This is a bit of a hail Mary post but here it goes.
2014 GMC Sierra w/o LED DRLs and battery is 2 years old
 
Existing set up: TRS retroquick projector upgrade, Morimoto HD harness, Morimoto ballasts, Morimoto DS2 igniters and bulbs, TRS cap link. Harness uses input from passenger side headlight to fire up the relays. 
 
Issue: My headlights do not fire reliably.  It typically take 4-5 times shifting in and out of drive to get both headlights to start up (happens in both DRL mode and at night when headlights should  be on).  More often then not my passenger side will start up and drivers will not.  A couple times turning lights on and off, eventually both sides start up.  This occasionally happens in reverse, drivers side turns on but passenger needs a few starts.  
 
Work to date: Cap link replaced 3 times, ballasts replaced twice per side, relays replaced twice, power fuse was replaced, grounds and power connections all cleaned and tested for continuity. HD harness still original.  I tested voltage both when this issue happens and when the lights work properly, no difference ~ 13V.  I measured power about both ballast power inputs and confirmed its making it to the ballast. 
 
Does anyone have experience with this issue or any additional diagnosing I can do to isolate the issue? Its only a matter of time before the cops pull me over for 1 headlight working.  
 
I have been working with TRS for about 2 months on this issue and yet to find some resolution.  They've been more than patient and have been replacing pretty much any part I asked for but seeing no progress... which is frustrating. 

There is a fix for this. It costs about $100 and its called new 35watt Hylux ballasts :-). Each ballast runs on its own circuit (i.e. plugs into the factory connections. No shared connection). Igniters, error code eliminators, etc... are all built into the ballast assembly. 3 year warranty. TRS carries them.

[Waterfowler41]

2 hours ago, 300 Blackout said:

There is a fix for this. It costs about $100 and its called new 35watt Hylux ballasts :-). Each ballast runs on its own circuit (i.e. plugs into the factory connections. No shared connection). Igniters, error code eliminators, etc... are all built into the ballast assembly. 3 year warranty. TRS carries them.

So how would I connect a Hylux ballast to D2S bulbs?

 

NM answered my questions, I can get D2H bulbs or I can get an AMP to D2 converter to reuse my existing lamps.

 

Anything else I can look at with my current system to debug?  Would it be worth while to run two separate powers for each relay instead of sharing 1?  

Edited November 19, 2018 by Waterfowler41
answered questions

[300 Blackout]

So how would I connect a Hylux ballast to D2S bulbs?
 
NM answered my questions, I can get D2H bulbs or I can get an AMP to D2 converter to reuse my existing lamps.
 
Anything else I can look at with my current system to debug?  Would it be worth while to run two separate powers for each relay instead of sharing 1?  

Unfortunately I can’t offer any direction on modifying your current setup because I really don’t know. Since you’ve been having trouble with it and working with TRS to resolve it without success, they may be willing to work with you to switch the system you’re using.

[Waterfowler41]

2 minutes ago, 300 Blackout said:

Unfortunately I can’t offer any direction on modifying your current setup because I really don’t know. Since you’ve been having trouble with it and working with TRS to resolve it without success, they may be willing to work with you to switch the system you’re using.

Yup, I have no complaints from that side of things they have entertained every crazy idea I came up with. Hoping to just swap out the old with the Hylux and get back to two working lights...  I imagine getting the amount of feedback and testing I have been giving them helps them when future issues pop up from other owners.  Been dealing with the same guy at TRS for a while. 

[FastWS6TA]

This is a bit of a hail Mary post but here it goes.
2014 GMC Sierra w/o LED DRLs and battery is 2 years old
 
Existing set up: TRS retroquick projector upgrade, Morimoto HD harness, Morimoto ballasts, Morimoto DS2 igniters and bulbs, TRS cap link. Harness uses input from passenger side headlight to fire up the relays. 
 
Issue: My headlights do not fire reliably.  It typically take 4-5 times shifting in and out of drive to get both headlights to start up (happens in both DRL mode and at night when headlights should  be on).  More often then not my passenger side will start up and drivers will not.  A couple times turning lights on and off, eventually both sides start up.  This occasionally happens in reverse, drivers side turns on but passenger needs a few starts.  
 
Work to date: Cap link replaced 3 times, ballasts replaced twice per side, relays replaced twice, power fuse was replaced, grounds and power connections all cleaned and tested for continuity. HD harness still original.  I tested voltage both when this issue happens and when the lights work properly, no difference ~ 13V.  I measured power about both ballast power inputs and confirmed its making it to the ballast. 
 
Does anyone have experience with this issue or any additional diagnosing I can do to isolate the issue? Its only a matter of time before the cops pull me over for 1 headlight working.  
 
I have been working with TRS for about 2 months on this issue and yet to find some resolution.  They've been more than patient and have been replacing pretty much any part I asked for but seeing no progress... which is frustrating. 

Like mentioned above.....get rid of the Morimoto setup and grab Hylux.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[Waterfowler41]

5 minutes ago, FastWS6TA said:

Like mentioned above.....get rid of the Morimoto setup and grab Hylux.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

After you and I spoke I started looking at the ballasts. They take a lot of the failure points out of the equation.  Unfortunately, I've spent so much time and money on my current set up that I am at the mercy of TRS on viable next steps. 

 

[A.J. Curtis]

Update! Everything is working flawlessly now! I have one little issue though. My passenger side head light adjuster is maxed out all the way and I can't get the beam any lower. I have FX-r projecters installed in OEM LTZ projector headlights using the Fastheadlights adapters. Does anyone have a suggestion to lower the beam? 

[8lugCT]

14 minutes ago, A.J. Curtis said:

Update! Everything is working flawlessly now! I have one little issue though. My passenger side head light adjuster is maxed out all the way and I can't get the beam any lower. I have FX-r projecters installed in OEM LTZ projector headlights using the Fastheadlights adapters. Does anyone have a suggestion to lower the beam? 

I had that problem, so I took the headlight out again, took out the top screws, and screwed them back in while pushing the top of the projectors so that it was secured at more of a downward angle. Either that, or you'll need to fully open your headlights so that you can seat the projectors properly 

[A.J. Curtis]

Just now, 8lugCT said:

I had that problem, so I took the headlight out again, took out the top screws, and screwed them back in while pushing the top of the projectors so that it was secured at more of a downward angle. Either that, or you'll need to fully open your headlights so that you can seat the projectors properly 

Thank you for the suggestion! I will see if that works. 

 

[FastWS6TA]

Update! Everything is working flawlessly now! I have one little issue though. My passenger side head light adjuster is maxed out all the way and I can't get the beam any lower. I have FX-r projecters installed in OEM LTZ projector headlights using the Fastheadlights adapters. Does anyone have a suggestion to lower the beam? 

Hey AJ
It sounds like maybe the back of the bulb is hitting inside the cap. I see this quite often where the dust cap isn't modified quite long enough and when the headlight is adjusted up the bulb hits the cap and you cant adjuat any higher. Remove the cap and see if you can adjust higher. If you can then it's an easy fix.

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[TXGREEK]

There is a fix for this. It costs about $100 and its called new 35watt Hylux ballasts :-). Each ballast runs on its own circuit (i.e. plugs into the factory connections. No shared connection). Igniters, error code eliminators, etc... are all built into the ballast assembly. 3 year warranty. TRS carries them.

You guys have my interests in these Hylux. Any idea where to get the setup for replacing 16 Yukon with ridiculous Halogen garbage?

[FastWS6TA]

You guys have my interests in these Hylux. Any idea where to get the setup for replacing 16 Yukon with ridiculous Halogen garbage?

https://www.fastheadlights.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=buy%5Fhid%5Fkit

Leave it as LT in the model.

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