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HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit


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I've used morimoto parts in the past whether it be harness or their fog lights and the few problems I've had have always been at the connectors. The pins come loose and break or water has gotten in and corroded the wires on the back of the connectors. Good measure is to use dielectric grease and some rtv on the back of the connector to seal where the wires go in or do a hard solder on the wiring.  On my old F150 corrosion was a big problem with their fog lights. They make good products but I feel the connectors are cheap.

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2 hours ago, FastWS6TA said:

What method did you use to connect to the OEM plug (input for the relay harness)? If you used a plug that is on the relay this may be your issue. Connecting to that 9012 plug on the headlight is an issue sometimes. It doesnt make a good connection all the time. You might want to try cutting the 9012 plug end off and actually soldering a 9006 connector on to it. The 9006 plug end makes for a better connection than the 9012.

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Phil, do you mean cut the connector off the harness and replace it with a 9006?  Thanks for the help.

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On 10/30/2018 at 8:54 AM, dcarl said:

Phil, do you mean cut the connector off the harness and replace it with a 9006?  Thanks for the help.

Yes, that is what he is saying. The connector that comes on the Morimoto harness is a 9006 female connector. The male connector on the stock wiring harness is a 9012, to mate with the stock 9012 bulbs. What he is saying is cut the stock male connector off and put a 9006 male connector on the stock wiring to mate with the Morimoto 9006 female connector.

 

Now, here's what I would do if you ever wanted to put stock lights back in the truck for any reason. I would clip the wires and put some bullet or blade connectors on the stock wiring harness and the new male 9006 connector. That way you could always put it back to stock if you wanted. Haven't thought of any reason why you ever would go back to the stock lights but at least it gives you options. This is what I'm going to do if I ever run into problems with my kit.

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Just to clarify, you do mean cut it off the relay harness not the headlight side is that right?

The reason I ask is its difficult to find any information on the connectors. They all seem to be interchangeable between 9006 & 9012...

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Just to clarify, you do mean cut it off the relay harness not the headlight side is that right?

The reason I ask is its difficult to find any information on the connectors. They all seem to be interchangeable between 9006 & 9012...

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Headlight side. Get rid of the 9012 plug. Replace it with a 9006. Those 9012 plugs fit like crap in the relay harness plug.

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Thanks for the clarification. I replaced my bulbs, ballasts, and igniters along with the plug...

The lights seem to work fine, but I still have the b2575 & b2699 trouble codes.

I cleared them and they came back....

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Speaking of issues with Morimoto, over the weekend I did HID kit in the factory projectors to hold me over till I have time to swap in the g5-r projectors. I do a test run of the bulbs/ballasts on my work bench and could not get one of the bulbs to fire. After getting pissed off thinking I got a junk bulb I found the issue was with the 9006 connector that you hook to the factory light plug was junk and the pins wouldn't stay tight so they couldn't get a good connection. Luckily I had a couple connectors left over from other kits I've used and was able to fix it. Also another thing that bugged me is they are now using ugly tan grommets instead of black like they used to, extremely ugly and disappointing they stick out like a sore thumb on the back of the light. Morimoto stuff is usually pretty good its just the connectors are junk and cheap.

 

I'm using Hylux ballats without a harness and so far no issues with codes. I also did morimoto fogs, tip you don't have to pull the trim ring off to install them. I used a plastic trim tool and was able to fit it between the light and trim piece without damaging anything. Don't go crazy but you can get enough force to pop them out.

Edited by BlackZ71SLT
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15 hours ago, BlackZ71SLT said:

Speaking of issues with Morimoto, over the weekend I did HID kit in the factory projectors to hold me over till I have time to swap in the g5-r projectors. I do a test run of the bulbs/ballasts on my work bench and could not get one of the bulbs to fire. After getting pissed off thinking I got a junk bulb I found the issue was with the 9006 connector that you hook to the factory light plug was junk and the pins wouldn't stay tight so they couldn't get a good connection. Luckily I had a couple connectors left over from other kits I've used and was able to fix it. Also another thing that bugged me is they are now using ugly tan grommets instead of black like they used to, extremely ugly and disappointing they stick out like a sore thumb on the back of the light. Morimoto stuff is usually pretty good its just the connectors are junk and cheap.

 

I'm using Hylux ballats without a harness and so far no issues with codes. I also did morimoto fogs, tip you don't have to pull the trim ring off to install them. I used a plastic trim tool and was able to fit it between the light and trim piece without damaging anything. Don't go crazy but you can get enough force to pop them out.

I almost ordered the g5-r projectors and then saw an ad for the m d2s 5.0 so i figured id wait and see how those compare.  the price for the g5-r are hard to beat tho

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Hey everyone, I need a little help.

 

I've had a Morimoto Elite HID kit for my low beams the last two year. One of my bulbs went out & I decided to finally install My FX-R Projector retrofit kit from fastheadlights. I used the same existing morimoto HID kit that was already installed and working. I swapped the "bulb Wires" that plug into the "Amp Igniters" and left everything else the same.  

 

I lost my DRL/running lights and auto on:banghead:  

 

Both the driver and passenger side headlight turn on and works with all running lights if I have the head light switch turned all the way to ON, other than that I get nothing.

 

I triple checked every connector and they are all firmly connected with a positive "click" sound too. 

 

Any suggestions on what to check would be greatly appreciated!

 

 

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Speaking of issues with Morimoto, over the weekend I did HID kit in the factory projectors to hold me over till I have time to swap in the g5-r projectors. I do a test run of the bulbs/ballasts on my work bench and could not get one of the bulbs to fire. After getting pissed off thinking I got a junk bulb I found the issue was with the 9006 connector that you hook to the factory light plug was junk and the pins wouldn't stay tight so they couldn't get a good connection. Luckily I had a couple connectors left over from other kits I've used and was able to fix it. Also another thing that bugged me is they are now using ugly tan grommets instead of black like they used to, extremely ugly and disappointing they stick out like a sore thumb on the back of the light. Morimoto stuff is usually pretty good its just the connectors are junk and cheap.
 
I'm using Hylux ballats without a harness and so far no issues with codes. I also did morimoto fogs, tip you don't have to pull the trim ring off to install them. I used a plastic trim tool and was able to fit it between the light and trim piece without damaging anything. Don't go crazy but you can get enough force to pop them out.
A little trick on the fog light removal.
Use a 9mm socket (or 10mm...) and on the back of the fog light push the mounts forward. The socket will close the tabs in and let you get the three mount points free. Works everytime.

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Hey everyone, I need a little help.
 
I've had a Morimoto Elite HID kit for my low beams the last two year. One of my bulbs went out & I decided to finally install My FX-R Projector retrofit kit from fastheadlights. I used the same existing morimoto HID kit that was already installed and working. I swapped the "bulb Wires" that plug into the "Amp Igniters" and left everything else the same.  
 
I lost my DRL/running lights and auto on:banghead:  
 
Both the driver and passenger side headlight turn on and works with all running lights if I have the head light switch turned all the way to ON, other than that I get nothing.
 
I triple checked every connector and they are all firmly connected with a positive "click" sound too. 
 
Any suggestions on what to check would be greatly appreciated!
 
 
Do you have a capacitor link in there?

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Do you have a capacitor link in there?

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Thank you for the response!

Yes I only have one capacitor link on the passenger side per the Morimoto instructions as it is on the side closest to the battery. Do I need one on the drivers side? I wired it up per the picture. The Morimoto kit that I have doesn’t use the standard D2S bulb with the large D2S igniters. It uses the D2H bulbs which I think uses a 9006 connector? 85e8067afcd9cc3742b18e02dcf97423.png


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Thank you for the response!

Yes I only have one capacitor link on the passenger side per the Morimoto instructions as it is on the side closest to the battery. Do I need one on the drivers side? I wired it up per the picture. The Morimoto kit that I have doesn’t use the standard D2S bulb with the large D2S igniters. It uses the D2H bulbs which I think uses a 9006 connector? 85e8067afcd9cc3742b18e02dcf97423.png


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The amp plugs on the d2h will plug directly into your ballast just like the HIDs you had before. Since your lights come on when you manually power them on it doesnt sound like a connection issue. If they inconsistently came on then perhaps an issue with the connections. Being that it isn't working in DRL mode it really points at that capacitor link being suspect. Check the ground connection on the capacitor and check the polarity. Red to red and black to black. Many times guys will reverse the polarity and it will cause the capacitor to not work.

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23 minutes ago, FastWS6TA said:

The amp plugs on the d2h will plug directly into your ballast just like the HIDs you had before. Since your lights come on when you manually power them on it doesnt sound like a connection issue. If they inconsistently came on then perhaps an issue with the connections. Being that it isn't working in DRL mode it really points at that capacitor link being suspect. Check the ground connection on the capacitor and check the polarity. Red to red and black to black. Many times guys will reverse the polarity and it will cause the capacitor to not work.

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That sounds like it is the solution! I will check when I get home.  Thank you so much for the help! 

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