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HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit


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Decided to take the plunge. Anyone who ordered from fastheadlights, is the wiring true plug and play including the high beam split? Live in Canada so need to order everything at once. Thanks in advance.

Any chance of a black friday sale?

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Decided to take the plunge. Anyone who ordered from fastheadlights, is the wiring true plug and play including the high beam split? Live in Canada so need to order everything at once. Thanks in advance.

Any chance of a black friday sale?

I just finished mine. Plug and play. A few little mods here and there but not to bad. Although it took me sometime. I went slow.

 

 

Decided to take the plunge. Anyone who ordered from fastheadlights, is the wiring true plug and play including the high beam split? Live in Canada so need to order everything at once. Thanks in advance.

Any chance of a black friday sale?

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I am contemplating opening up my headlights. I read this post and it looks somewhat straight forward. It is for the Silverado 1500 and I have a 2015 2500Hd but I think they have pretty much the same headlights.

 

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/152762-hid-headlight-bulbs-hid-projector-retrofit/page-127?hl=bake&do=findComment&comment=1665093

 

I had a few questions

 

Does anyone know if I have to take off the outer chrome bezel? I read the it needs to be removed by heating to 200F for a few minutes.

 

"Baking/Opening

I've baked mine apart and removed the amber lense when I did my retro. This is going to sound high, but 270* F for 22 minutes is what it took for me. Lower and you're going to be frustrated and do more damage. The permaseal is tough! I didn't outline it below, but do an initial bake for a while around 200* F and remove the chrome trim first. Be careful as it's easy to break on one end (next to grille where vertical sections are thin). I used a straight carbide cutter on my dremel to remove the old permaseal-baking wouldn't taken forever to clean the channels. Test fit several times dry before you attempt to seal it back together."

 

 

 

Also, if anyone could give me more information regarding this step or any more tips or tools to use to open the headlight after baking.

 

 

Last question, where can I find a spare adjuster. I may have stripped mine like in a previous post as I was trying to get the projectors aimed higher.

 

Thanks a million!

Edited by Menteleum
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Two questions: Any idea what the causes the three little square above my lights on the wall. Also for adjustment is the cut off correct or can I fine tune that line. Seems to have a lighting bolt type line going on. Thanks

Hey brotha. Just raise up that driver side a hair. I think the little squares are reflection off the oem chrome parts. I have the same on mine.
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Thanks bro. I didn't want to bug you on thanksgiving since I'm constantly asking questions. The new lights are so nice. My install looks good too. lol.

 

quote name="FastWS6TA" post="1716829" timestamp="1448673013"]

 

Hey brotha. Just raise up that driver side a hair. I think the little squares are reflection off the oem chrome parts. I have the same on mine.

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I'm about to pull the trigger on the RX 350 projectors for my Sierra. Anybody have any tips for install? Planning on using the bracket from the Fast Headlights.

 

Are y'all using 35W or 55W ballasts? Do I need the AMP > D2S straight adaptor?

If you buy the whole kit on our site we include the D2s to amp adapters. If you buy just the bracket then we suggest you get all the same parts we list in the bundle. I honestly don't think that 55w are necessary. Some people also have stated that the 55w was too bright and the contrast between above and below the cutoff line made it seem as though above the cutoff was pitch black. Not sure that makes sense how I worded it. Ha.
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I just put in 6,500k HID kit from The Retro Fit Source that looks and performs great, their products are well built in my opinion and I also added the 5,500k LED smoked fog lights, easy OEM replacement and look great, my buddy has a 2014 AT and he has same setup but the 5,500k HID kit, we've decided the 6,500k matches the color of the fog lights dead on and looks great

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I lost the rubber seal that goes around the cap that is build into the headlight assembly and now I have condescension in my headlight assembly. Would anyone know if by using "Butyl" as a substitute seal be the remedy to my problem?

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Edited by mtrejo22
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I lost the rubber seal that goes around the cap that is build into the headlight assembly and now I have condescension in my headlight assembly. Would anyone know if by using "Butyl" as a substitute seal be the remedy to my problem?

Yes that will work but it will get sticky with the engine heat and to remove the cap to change bulbs will be a pain I would assume.

 

2014 Silverado 2WT CC Summit White 4.3L V6

DROPKICK Edition

IG: jorge_dropkick_rangel

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Hey guys, so I wanted to put new bulbs in my setup and when I went to install the drivers side bulb it fired up just fine but it was a bit too yellow for me. So I put the original back in and now my ballast screeches really loud and the drivers side wont fire up. The new ones won't either. I'm not sure what's going on. Could my DS2/AMP connector have gone bad? Any idea?

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I've got some 6000k LED spot lights (to replace fog) and a 20" 6000k LED light bar for the front bumper coming.

 

I want to order 55w HID bulbs for both my LTZ projetors (low beam) -- What color temperature will match the 6000k LEDs best do you guys think? I was gonna get 6000K HID's... but I've read a lot of back-and-forth about what color seems to match best.

 

Let me know! Thanks :)

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