HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

[Jaykhjr28]

Only Preorder for the next few days. $180 which is really good.

http://www.diodedynamics.com/store/catalog/product/view/id/22543/s/2014-2015-gmc-sierra-multicolor-drl-led-modules/category/1451/

 

 

So mike, if I pick up a set of these, a set of halos, and two controllers, ill end up with something very similar to your build correct?

[Jaykhjr28]

Also, with a set of these, do your turnsignals function normally? maybe a dumb question, just havent messed with the headlights much so i figured id ask.

[Mike1220]

 

 

So mike, if I pick up a set of these, a set of halos, and two controllers, ill end up with something very similar to your build correct?

exact same thing [emoji106]

 

Also, with a set of these, do your turnsignals function normally? maybe a dumb question, just havent messed with the headlights much so i figured id ask.

Yes the turn signals will still function normally, the turn signals aren't touched unless you do the switchback boards but even the. The turn signals still function normally, the DRLs will just double as the DRL and a turn signal.

The color boards allow you to just make the boards change color and not just be white. Not sure if you can make them change while you are driving

Edited May 28, 2015 by Mike1220

[nadrojcote]

I wonder what smd's the stock board uses, I wouldn't be afraid to solder some new lights in them to make them brighter. Maybe some cree xb-d's. I also wouldnt mind changing my interior guage cluster and dash lights to be blue like fords guages.

[OilfieldTrash78]

Does anyone know what relays the Morimoto kit uses?

Edited May 28, 2015 by OilfieldTrash78

[BowHunter1]

I wonder what smd's the stock board uses, I wouldn't be afraid to solder some new lights in them to make them brighter. Maybe some cree xb-d's. I also wouldnt mind changing my interior guage cluster and dash lights to be blue like fords guages.

 

I am with you on this one!!

[nadrojcote]

I soldered blue LEDs in the guages on my tacoma and it turned out nice. I just don't know how well it well it will match the red infotainment and dic theme.

[Dunc]

I was doing my retro over the weekend and noticed the highbeam solenoid was not triggering (using RX350 projectors.) I ended up breaking a projector so I reverted back to stock, but didn't plug in the highbeam wire on either light since I had already changed the connector. I wanted to test the wires last night to see if I could figure out why it wasn't triggering and what I found has me stumped.

 

With the projector (stock) not plugged in I get a nice strong 11.5v signal. If I plug in the stock projector and probe the wires then I only get 4.5v when I hit the high beam switch. I tried all sort of variations: car off-manual lights on, car on manual lights on, car off auto lights, car on auto lights but no matter what I tried I always would only get 4.5v when I plugged in the stock projector. I only had the driver side plugged in while testing with the stock setup last night. Over the weekend I had both RX350s plugged in when it also didn't work, so I suspect I was only getting 4.5v then too. I also tried unplugging the halogen bulb from the driver but that didn't change anything. I'll have to try unplugging the passenger side as well to isolate everything to just the driver's side for testing. Does anyone have any idea why the volts drop to 4.5v simply by plugging in the stock projector solenoid? I was not using the wiring HID wiring harness I made while testing last night, everything was in a stock format.

 

 

EDIT: I found this from googling. Unplugging the passenger side and driver's side bulb should help me know if things are crossed. I really don't think they are though because I made to sure to check how the wires were placed in the stock connectors and marked which lead was (+) on the connector before I disassembled them. Everything worked fine with the HIDs low beam, and also with the stock halogens...it's just that the high beam solenoid does not trigger. :/

 

The blown fuse was part of the scenario I was thinking of.

 

If you look at the diagram: The RH hi-beam has 12V on it all the time but it only operates, like the LH hi-beam, when the ground side is connected to the dimmer relay contact as shown. Normally, as soon as you turn the lights on, the dimmer relay switches to ground the low-beams (unless, of course, you have left the hi-beam steering wheel switched to HI).

 

In your case, with the blown LH lamp fuse (or it could have been a bad LH relay also), there is no 12V potential to drive current through the LH bulbs to ground normally (in either hi or low position).

 

BUT, as the hi-beam bulb grounds are connected where their grounds, as shown, join at the wire crossing (joining) next to the jumpover for the RH low beam ground, the 12V after passing thru the RH high beam is finding its way back thru the ground wire to the LH hi-beam and also thru the LH low-beam (the 12V, except for the fuse being blown, normally feeds both bulbs at once, so their inputs are tied together), and then to the low beam ground on the dimmer relay.

 

The 12V at the RH hi-beam is reduced thru 3 bulbs on its way to ground, so all three glow at ~1/3 brightness.

 

The RH low-beam acts normally because its circuit is direct to ground.

 

If the fuse was not blown, you would have 12V at all the bulbs and the current would be forced to flow the normal way thru the bulbs to ground, depending on which way the dimmer was "set".

 

The hi-beam dash indicator after the voltage drop thru the two high-beam bulbs is not getting enough voltage to fire it to ground.

 

You would see 12V on the multimeter as you said because with the plug disconnected no current is flowing so you don't see a voltage drop thru any of the bulbs until you plug it back in.

 

When, in hi-beam mode, you disconnected the LH low-beam you broke the circuit to ground, so the LH hi-beam went out, too. And the RH side hi-beam worked because it was going directly to ground as it should in the Hi-beam mode.

 

I think that's all there is.

 

More: Crossed grounds would do the same thing, but only if the fuse or relay were bad.

Edited May 29, 2015 by Dunc

[FastWS6TA]

The new diode dynamic boards are awesome! Just got the rgbw boards in tonight to test for a week till the switchback ones get here and then I will run those.

The mounting points on the boards align perfectly with factory mount locations. Quality of boards and wiring is outstanding. The brightness of the leds is excellent. You can see a comparison pic of the oem setup to the new setup. Only down side for some will be that you must have both upper and lower leds on. No separation between upper and lower at this time. Simply tap power into your corner marker and ground and you are good to go. I am working on a splitter to allow power from DRL circuit so they automatically come on without having to turn the knob or push fog light button. Then at night the other connection in the splitter would go to a tap on the corner marker or on the back of the main plug. Anyone know what diode I would use to prevent current from running back into the DRL circuit? Not good with that stuff. Lol.

 

 

[Mike1220]

The new diode dynamic boards are awesome! Just got the rgbw boards in tonight to test for a week till the switchback ones get here and then I will run those.

The mounting points on the boards align perfectly with factory mount locations. Quality of boards and wiring is outstanding. The brightness of the leds is excellent. You can see a comparison pic of the oem setup to the new setup. Only down side for some will be that you must have both upper and lower leds on. No separation between upper and lower at this time. Simply tap power into your corner marker and ground and you are good to go. I am working on a splitter to allow power from DRL circuit so they automatically come on without having to turn the knob or push fog light button. Then at night the other connection in the splitter would go to a tap on the corner marker or on the back of the main plug. Anyone know what diode I would use to prevent current from running back into the DRL circuit? Not good with that stuff. Lol.

 

 

Looks good, how bright are they during the day? Are the different colors easy to see during the day like the OEM DRLs?

Also can you post some pics and a video of the switchback DRLs in action when you get them? I want to do mine but want to see them in action first

[Dangerdick]

I've got mine all wired to function with the DRLs and the bottom boards will be independent from the top

[Dangerdick]

Getting pretty impatient to get these all together finally

 

[FastWS6TA]

I've got mine all wired to function with the DRLs and the bottom boards will be independent from the top

How'd you do that?

[FastWS6TA]

Looks good, how bright are they during the day? Are the different colors easy to see during the day like the OEM DRLs?

Also can you post some pics and a video of the switchback DRLs in action when you get them? I want to do mine but want to see them in action first

Sure will bud. These are really nice and bright.

[Dangerdick]

How'd you do that?

 

Diode the DRLs to run at full voltage all the time

 

Run the positive lead (pin 6 on the harness) to your power input for the LED controller

 

 

Break the black wire from the upper and lower boards with a relay that gets signal power from pin 2 on the harness (this can all be done inside the headlight if you trace the wires)

 

the upper boards wont receive power from the driver until the headlights come on - duplicating stock