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HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit


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Pulled my HIDs off. Idk what happened. We pulled the ballast and capacitors off and they worked on my buddies jeep and they worked until he drove it but we didn't wire his relay harness up. Idk I'm staying factory for now..

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Pulled my HIDs off. Idk what happened. We pulled the ballast and capacitors off and they worked on my buddies jeep and they worked until he drove it but we didn't wire his relay harness up. Idk I'm staying factory for now..

Same thing happened to me with DDM hids. Riding stock now
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Pulled my HIDs off. Idk what happened. We pulled the ballast and capacitors off and they worked on my buddies jeep and they worked until he drove it but we didn't wire his relay harness up. Idk I'm staying factory for now..

Same thing, i gave up. I need to find someone who does retrofits, That are done really well.

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Hello guys. New to the forums. Just bought a 2014 sierra. In need of some hids lol. I have read the tread fully and very very good info on here. That being said a few ?s... those who having 5k hids. What's the difference in COLOR from a 35 watt ballast/55 watt ballast if any. And what color should I put on my fogs to match the projectors with hids. Or something close to it? Would it still be 5k?

 

The difference between 35W and 55W at 5000K is that the 35W will have more blue to it while the 55W, since it produces more power, will wash out some of the color and make it more of a white. IMO, the 55W 5,000K will match the LED DRLs perfectly if you have them. I would get the 55W 5000K for your headlights and look for 25W HIDs or LED bulbs for your fog

 

 

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Put my 5000K DDM kit in my truck with a 6 inch lift today, took it for a short drive and got flashed by both cars I passed, I guess it is time to aim them down. Any pointers on how to get them set to where they won't blind people?

Quite honestly, your in a lifted truck. I think you and I can both agree that you will likely do nothing but blind people while your up in the air. I'm not dogging the fact that your truck is lifted. I'm working on getting the money together for a 4" kit and 33s or 34s, still deciding on the tire.

 

 

However, if your truck is eqquiped with projectors, then you can aim the beams down and have it be effective, however if it has the reflector housings, which it's technically illegal to use HIDs in a reflector housing, then you will never truly be able to aim the beam down. I find that HIDs in a reflector work almost like a high beam becuase they can scatter so much. Not all the time, but most of the time.

 

 

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The difference between 35W and 55W at 5000K is that the 35W will have more blue to it while the 55W, since it produces more power, will wash out some of the color and make it more of a white. IMO, the 55W 5,000K will match the LED DRLs perfectly if you have them. I would get the 55W 5000K for your headlights and look for 25W HIDs or LED bulbs for your fog

 

 

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all ddm-- i ordered the 5000k 55w lows, 4500k 35w fogs. I hope they match correctly. i got some 5000k for the fogs in case.

 

from what i've researched, not sure if true... but some companies sell kits(not sure if they use special bulbs or what) that match color no matter the wattage. say you order 6000k bulbs+35w+55w ballasts, they will look that color even if one is brighter than the other. ddm is cheap so i figure the 55w 5000k will somewhat wash out to more of a 35w 4500k kit. we'll see i guess.

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all ddm-- i ordered the 5000k 55w lows, 4500k 35w fogs. I hope they match correctly. i got some 5000k for the fogs in case.

 

from what i've researched, not sure if true... but some companies sell kits(not sure if they use special bulbs or what) that match color no matter the wattage. say you order 6000k bulbs+35w+55w ballasts, they will look that color even if one is brighter than the other. ddm is cheap so i figure the 55w 5000k will somewhat wash out to more of a 35w 4500k kit. we'll see i guess.

I'm assuming the companies that do that have a slightly higher price? Either way, it's not hard to do that. All that they have to do is adjust the gap inbetween the two electrodes or whatever in the bulb. The gap is what determines the color output of the bulb so therefore all they have to do is discover what distance a 35W requires to be pre white, blue, etc, and the distance required for a 55W bulb to do the Same. Then they just market it by color and lumens instead of by wattage and the above.

 

 

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EDIT:

 

I just noticed that you are going to be putting these in a Silvy. Then you won't need a 25W bulb since the Silvys can handle a 35W in the fogs. Wish my Sierra fogs could do the same. :/

Edited by Mike1220
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Pulled my HIDs off. Idk what happened. We pulled the ballast and capacitors off and they worked on my buddies jeep and they worked until he drove it but we didn't wire his relay harness up. Idk I'm staying factory for now..

This may sound stupid but this is what happened to me (several weeks ago). Is bought two complete sets of bulbs, ballasts and relays from DDM. One was in 55 watt and the other in 35 watt. BTW these two rigs are identical except for the capacitors. I installed a 35 watt set of capacitors and the other necessary parts and I could find no light output. I was certain I had done the whole thing correctly even though I was the first one on the forum to have noted a change in the relay harness from DDM as compared to Moto's original description. I pulled the whole outfit off, re-installed, same thing no lights. I kept changing things and worked at this for hours until the sun went down at which point I realized what a moron I had been. I later came to believe the whole thing had been working from the get go but I didn't realize this until sundown when I could actually see the lights were working even when set up as I had originally done. I had been ducking my head down in bright daylight looking for light output and seeing none because I did not duck low enough to be in direct line of sight to the center of the projector lenses. When seen from a slight angle from above in bright light, the output is not apparent. You have to actually place your head low enough in front of the light assembles to properly appreciate whether they are working. I reaffirmed my suspicion by changing out parts and bulbs and ballasts and every time they worked when set up as I originally had done no matter what combination of parts I used. I have seen a number of frustrated posts by those with "no light output" problems and I hesitated to write this post as I don't want to insult anyone's intelligence especially when they are at the point of throwing the whole idea of installing HID's out the window. Take my experience for what it is worth. YMMV of course but at least be sure you are finding you have no lights when you expect to see them (in a dark environment) and not just in broad daylight.

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Yeah you should still be able to tell if they're on even standing upright unless you can't see the projector at all. I had to drive home with my fog lights Sunday night. They just weren't coming on. Not even if I manually turned them on.

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OK I have a question. Motomedic, you may have the answer.

 

I had a company install HIDs in my Sierra this week and it has been HELL!

 

They sometimes flicker, or one will come on and one will not. Took it back to the shop and they wouldn't act up.

Got in this morning 6ish to head to work, and they would turn off then and I kept messing with the auto and on switch and finally gave up. Drove to work just my fog lights.

 

So Any suggestions and input would be helpful.

 

Thanks

 

Tony

 

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OK I have a question. Motomedic, you may have the answer.

 

I had a company install HIDs in my Sierra this week and it has been HELL!

 

They sometimes flicker, or one will come on and one will not. Took it back to the shop and they wouldn't act up.

Got in this morning 6ish to head to work, and they would turn off then and I kept messing with the auto and on switch and finally gave up. Drove to work just my fog lights.

 

So Any suggestions and input would be helpful.

 

Thanks

 

Tony

 

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Sounds like they hooked up the HIDs with a Relay Wiring Harness but did not use Capacitors. Let them know in order for HIDs to work correctly in a new Sierra you need both installed.

If you look in post #1 there are wiring diagrams.. print out and show them.

Capacitors have several alternate names such as error code eliminators, CAN-Bus, etc...but they're all the same thing.

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Thank you sir!

 

This is why I didn't want to do it. And them being the Pro's at it, you would think they could have figured it out.

 

Thanks again!

 

Tony

 

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Just a little update. I have 35w Morimoto kit in a Sierra, install went pretty good, light output is good, just disappointed in the stock-projector aiming issues. So I played with up-down on high, and lowered the 10degree up to about 5 degrees up, and on low they still are OK, so while I still would like to bring down the highs even more, and get great downrange performance, I can't because then the lows would be way too low. So all is OK, I'm keeping them in, because they still blow away the stockers in output, but I will wait to do anything else to see if anyone comes out with a projector kit, or I can find someone local to do one at a time for me.

And I haven't had any flicker/etc... issues.

 

If I get some free time over the summer, I may attempt to take a good look at the projector itself, to see if I could somehow mod the shutter height on low (to close higher), then I could aim the highs perfect AND get the lows up a little.

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