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2014+ Suspension Lifts


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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello all.

 

I've got a 2017 Silverado 2wd on the stock 20" wheels. I am looking to put a mild lift on it just to raise it a bit and put slightly beefier tires. This is going to be mainly for looks. I have not and do not intend to take the truck offroading. I DO intend to tow a travel trailer with this truck though so I'd like something that won't interfere with tow capacity.

 

Anyway, I am currently looking at the Eibach Pro-Truck Lift System that should give me the ride quality and the look I am after. My questions are the following:

 

  1. I am looking installing 2.25" rear blocks from  Readylift. Do you guys find this to be a good combo for the Eibachs?
  2. I have read that for longevity's sake and since parts are already coming off I may as well replace the UCAs and endlinks while I'm at it. What are some good UCA's I should be looking at? I've seen Cognito, Kryptonite and Rough Country mentioned here.
  3. I was going to go ahead and replace the endlinks while I was at it too and decided on the Moogs endlinks - this good?
  4. I was thinking of ordering everything online as I get a military discount for a lot of these places and just having a shop do the install. Is that a smart move? Do you guys have a reasonable estimate for labor I should expect or is that too dependent on location?

 

Thanks in advance for the help. I was previously in the import car scene before my Chevy so lifting is a bit foreign to me.

 

 

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9 hours ago, egxflash said:

've got a 2017 Silverado 2wd on the stock 20" wheels. I am looking to put a mild lift on it just to raise it a bit and put slightly beefier tires. This is going to be mainly for looks. I have not and do not intend to take the truck offroading. I DO intend to tow a travel trailer with this truck though so I'd like something that won't interfere with tow capacity.

If you go for just a front level (2" or so) you might sit level and be able to toss on some 33s.
However, if you don't do something for the rear (I did a Zone 1.5" spring lift with an extra leaf for stiffness), you'll be squatting when you tow.

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13 hours ago, MikeBMW said:

If you go for just a front level (2" or so) you might sit level and be able to toss on some 33s.
However, if you don't do something for the rear (I did a Zone 1.5" spring lift with an extra leaf for stiffness), you'll be squatting when you tow.

I will confirm that. I have 2" Rough Country level and 275/60R20 (33") tires on. When I would hitch up, my headlights were too high at night. That was the biggest issue. I had a weight distribution hitch and had the front perfect. And the amount of rear end sag was completely normal. If I didn't have the level, I had this dialed in good. But because the front end now was already 2" higher, the sag was a problem. My solution that actually works very well... I could have added blocks to the rear to raise it up but then that defeated the reason for leveling. I added a set of Airlift 5000 air bags to rear and now can customize the setup as needed. Very simple to just add or remove air as needed.

 

End result, I have a leveled truck while towing and no longer blinding low flying planes or lighting up the treetops at night.

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On 10/2/2021 at 9:08 AM, mikeyk101 said:

I will confirm that. I have 2" Rough Country level and 275/60R20 (33") tires on. When I would hitch up, my headlights were too high at night. That was the biggest issue. I had a weight distribution hitch and had the front perfect. And the amount of rear end sag was completely normal. If I didn't have the level, I had this dialed in good. But because the front end now was already 2" higher, the sag was a problem. My solution that actually works very well... I could have added blocks to the rear to raise it up but then that defeated the reason for leveling. I added a set of Airlift 5000 air bags to rear and now can customize the setup as needed. Very simple to just add or remove air as needed.

 

End result, I have a leveled truck while towing and no longer blinding low flying planes or lighting up the treetops at night.

I can attest to rear air bags to rear, but depending on size lift, u will need a taller block and a spacer for air bag

 

Eventually down the road u might want to get work done on your rear differential when going 33". Some claim u don't need it...but I suggest it

 

Also for the guy that has 2wd...here's what I did in front for example..it's just an option

 

Sorry for being dirty..it's usually clean but it is a work truck

16332875707845721221231598245150.jpg

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16332876325101441173962613208344.jpg

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On 9/10/2021 at 9:06 AM, Pinky Z71 said:

After gathering a lot of good info on here and other places, I went ahead and got the Eibach Pro-Truck Lift Kit.  I had the kit installed and he said it was a good way to start a Friday morning.  I wanted the Coilover 2.0s but couldn't find them in stock and needed to level up the truck before getting tires on Monday.  The kit lifted the front a solid 3", looks like I need to add a block to the rear but letting it settle first.  I used the second groove on the front shocks.

 

This is my first truck and first leveling kit.  I was concerned with the ride quality, I can't believe how amazing the ride is compared to original Ranchos with 88,000 miles.  No more bouncing around, this thing is tight but not stiff.  It corners well and I'm super stoked about this decision!

 

Here are some pics, I hope this helps someone.

First three are Before ...next two are After.

 

I'm getting 285/70r18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers on Monday (currently stock Duratracs) , I'll update with more pics ...and hopefully a cleaner truck HAHA.

PXL_20201016_204022128_A.jpg

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IMG_20200401_121410 (2).jpg

PXL_20210910_144854964_A.jpg

PXL_20210910_145005172.jpg

 

Have you decided if you're still going to do the rear blocks?

 

I'm getting ready to do this and am deciding if I should order the blocks now and do it while everything's already apart.

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5 hours ago, egxflash said:

Have you decided if you're still going to do the rear blocks?

 

I'm getting ready to do this and am deciding if I should order the blocks now and do it while everything's already apart.

I'd recommend the blocks if you don't want a squat when hauling or towing.
Better yet, get a spring lift for better weight on the springs to fight that squat.
With my 3" level and 1" Billstein shock lift (as well as a 1.5" body lift), I have both the spring lift and a 1" block lift.
IMG_0406.thumb.JPG.68858d56d86eff2b5f3c3865f03d3427.JPG

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  • 2 months later...
On 2/18/2021 at 5:26 PM, 6.2Creedmoor said:

Anyone have any insight into the vibration I am getting in 4 Auto and 4 Hi after installing a BDS 4" lift?  The transfer case was smooth as butter prior to the lift.  The vibration is almost like a groan that can be felt in the transfer case upon acceleration between 10-30 mph.  The shop is stating that I will need a CV (dual cardan) front driveshaft as the pinion angle and prop shaft angle has changed and the u/joint angles are no longer in phase.

 

Yet, it seems there are plenty of others running 4" and 6" lifts that don't require a CV front driveshaft and have no vibrations in 4 Auto and 4 Hi.  And then there are the others that are stock and have the same vibrations.  ?‍♂️

I just started looking into this issue with my truck.  I've got a 6" FabTech lift and running 35" tires.  I'm also getting a groan under acceleration, say between 30 & 50mph, when in 4auto.  Didn't think about it being the front driveshaft but maybe?  Did you get your issue resolved?   

Edited by steve76t
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On 1/5/2022 at 1:23 PM, steve76t said:

I just started looking into this issue with my truck.  I've got a 6" FabTech lift and running 35" tires.  I'm also getting a groan under acceleration, say between 30 & 50mph, when in 4auto.  Didn't think about it being the front driveshaft but maybe?  Did you get your issue resolved?   

I had this is issue when my lift was installed a few years ago. They didn't mark the the front driveshaft position when it was removed and reinstalled it clocked wrong. I unbolted it and rotated the front yoke and bolted bake up , problem solved . 

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On 1/8/2022 at 8:41 PM, FlipZ71 said:

I had this is issue when my lift was installed a few years ago. They didn't mark the the front driveshaft position when it was removed and reinstalled it clocked wrong. I unbolted it and rotated the front yoke and bolted bake up , problem solved . 

I’ll have to give that a shot & see what happens.  Thanks for the tip. 

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  • 1 month later...

Well I finally pulled the trigger and had my install done after years of reading through this thread. It ended up exactly how I wanted it to thanks to everyone contributing here.

 

6'' BDS w/ Coil overs

20'' SCA Blackwidow Rims with 0 Offset

Toyo MT 35x12.5x20

1.75 BORA spacer in the rear to match the front without cutting the studs.

Instead of trimming, just took off the lower 1/2 of the valence and used Zone Trim Plates. No rubbing at all or even close now.

 

It sits perfectly level, just have near 800 lbs of tires/wheels in the bed.

 

I can finally vouch and say this definitely rides better than stock, even with the MT tires. The coil overs probably make the difference.

20220302_141122.jpg

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